Better Late Than Never - Speculaas

I am an extremely stubborn person.  Yes, I know, it's shocking, but it's true.  ;)

I have been wanting to post about making Speculaas for St. Nicholas day (December 6th) ever since I started this blog in August of 2008, but I have never been able to find a speculaasplank that I could afford.  True, they are fantastic works of folk art, but if you don't have the funds, you don't have the funds.  $50.00 for the simplest mold just seems a little excessive to me.  If you start looking at the hand carved antique ones, then add at least an additional $50 but more than likely an additional $100.   So, since I have been denied the proper way to mold and form speculaas, I have steadfastly refused to make them.

Well not anymore!  (WooHoo!)

I found "a find" at an antique store in Gresham that is going to be closing. I bought 2 Speculaasplanks for $5 dollars each. Total bargain!  Granted, these are copies of older molds (meaning they aren't really antiques), but it was still a deal I could not refuse.

I am not going to retell the history of Speculaas and how the name derives from the Latin "speculum" (mirror).  I am not going to go into the Sinter Klaas story or talk about the Festival or any of that sort of stuff.  There are pages and pages of information available all over the internet, so I am going to let you do some research if you want to know all about it.  :)

This post is mainly about mixing the dough and using the planks.   After all, isn't successful execution of Speculaas the most important part?  I though so.

So let's get this show on the road!  These Speculaas are already a month late.   LOL 

Speculaas

 The lovers or admirers (vrijer and vrijster)

2 3/4 cups (13 oz) ( 365g) All-Purpose Flour
1/3 cup (1 oz) (28g) Almond Flour
2 1/2 TB Speculaaskriuden (Speculaas Spice)
1/2 tsp Cocoa powder
1/2 tsp Baking Soda
1/2 tsp Kosher Salt
6 oz (170g) Unsalted Butter
1 cup (6.5 oz) (185g) Light Muscovado Sugar (or Belgian Soft Candi Sugar - Brune Fonce)
1/3 cup (78ml) Whole Milk

In a bowl, whisk together the AP & Almond Flours, Speculaas Spice, Cocoa Powder, Baking Soda, and Salt; set aside.

In the bowl of your electric mixer, beat the butter until light.

Add the Muscovado Sugar and beat until combined and fluffy.

Scrape the bowl well......

Add half the flour mixture, blending well.

Add milk, blend again.

Add the remaining flour mixture; mix.

You should have a very uniform, but stiff dough when done.

Form into 2 disks and wrap in waxed paper, then in plastic wrap. (Some spices can react with plastic wrap so I use waxed paper to protect the dough and then plastic to keep it sealed)

Chill for at least 2 hours, but preferably over night to allow the spices to hang out and get to know each other.

When you are ready to mold the cookies........
Dust your Speculaasplank with AP Flour, Rice Flour or Cornstarch. (I prefer good old AP flour)

Remove 1 disk of dough and break off a chunk.

Press into the plank.

Slice away the excess dough with a VERY sharp, well floured knife. (it works best if you can do it in 1 continuous stroke. Starting at the bolster of the knife and draw it towards you while slicing off the excess dough)

Invert the mold and give it a small "whack" on the counter to release the cookies.

If they are sticking, you may carefully nudge then free with a small offset spatula (don't use a knife or you risk damaging the plank) 
Once the cookies are free of the plank, brush away any flour or crumbs left behind (a skewer works well for removing stuck dough crumbs)
Transfer imprinted cookies to parchment lined baking sheets, leaving 2" between cookies.

Re-flour the mold and repeat.
Lightly brush away any excess flour (it doesn't have to be perfect, there will be some flour absorption during baking)

Chill the formed cookies for 1 hour while preheating the oven to 350F (175C) degrees.
Bake until golden brown; 10 minutes for small speculaas and 13-15 minutes for larger ones.

Move to a rack and allow to cool. (if you can)

There, now that wasn't too painful was it?  All in all, once you have done it a couple of times it goes really quick.  Granted, this is not as quick as rolling and cutting, but sometimes tradition is more important.  And let's face it.  These cookies LOOK wicked cool.  Am I right?

Goed Eten!!

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Spectacular Speculaaskruiden - Speculaas Spice Mix

Yes, I am stretching this endeavor out as much as possible, simply because I am enjoying the journey.

Now that I have achieved a Speckulaasplank, or rather 2 of them, it is almost time to make Speculaas.  But first, we need to talk about spices, for that is of paramount importance.  A speculaasjes just isn't a speculaasjes without the tangy zip of Speculaaskruiden (Speculaas Spice).

True, you can buy it in the grocery store.  OK, not so much here on the West Coast, but it is out there.  You can order it over the internet as well.  But you never really know how long it has been setting around.  Personally, I find that the path to the best Speculaas is paved with spices you have ground and mixed yourself.

My friend Cathy over at Dutch Baker's Daughter has a fantastic spice mix recipe.  Mine is slightly different, but I think that is primarily due to the fact that I am a little more Danish than Dutch.  LOL

Then again, it could be because I am a Mace hound and always have been.  When a recipe calls for 1/2 tsp Nutmeg and 1/4 tsp Mace, I always flip them around, using more Mace and less Nutmeg.  They come from the same plant after all.  Mace is the simply the dried peel of the Nutmeg.  But I like the subtle fruity quality that is has... Like Nutmeg, but with hints of Orange.  YUM!

Let's talk a little Cinnamon for a moment.  I am REALLY big on Ceylon Cinnamon, so is most of Europe and Mexico.  Not Saigon (C. loureiroi), Chinese (C. cassia) or Korintje (C. burmannii), known collectively as "Cassia" in some circles, but real honest to goodness Ceylon Cinnamon (Cinnamonium vernum).  Thank goodness there is a Penzey's here, cause it's getting harder and harder to find.  If you are using Korintje Cinnamon reduce the cinnamon in this recipe to 7 tsp; if you are using Saigon Cinnamon, reduce the cinnamon to 6 tsp or it will completely overpower the blend.

As far as the Coriander, Anise Seed.....  Well, you could probably leave those out if you want... I think the Coriander bolsters the profile by brightening the overall flavor while the anise lends it's own subtle "sweetness".  Don't worry, there is not enough to make the cookies taste like licorice, I promise.   LOL    The point is, your Speculaaskruiden really MUST have Cinnamon, Clove, Mace (or Nutmeg), Ginger, Cardamom and White Pepper.

Speculaaskruiden

The palate of a baker allows us to paint a picture with flavor.

8 tsp ground Ceylon Cinnamon
2 tsp ground Clove
2 tsp ground Ginger
2 tsp ground Mace
3/4 tsp ground Cardamom
1/2 tsp ground White Pepper
1/2 tsp grated Nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground Coriander
1/2 tsp ground Anise Seed (not Star Anise - It's too strong)

Blend everything together.

Store in an airtight container.

And NOW, we are ready to make some serious Koekje (cookies)

Mangia!!
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Wordless Wednesday - Speculaas Planks (Finally!)

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Delectable Dutch Delight - Banket

Nothin says lovin' like Dutch treats from the oven; and this one is one of my favorites.

I promised Banket when I made my Almond Paste, so here we go.  True, it's a little past the season for Banket, but I like to think of this as playing "catch-up".  I made SO much Almond Roca, Fudge, Divinity and various Christmas Cookies as well as Christmas ornaments with the kids, that I really didn't have time to make this as well.  One only has so much time between ThanksGiving and Christmas Eve.

So what exactly IS Banket?  Well, it is the epitome of Almond Paste goodness, that is for sure.  Flaky, buttery pastry dough lovingly wrapped around that ever so evocative filling of Almond Paste.  YUM!  Baked until golden, then sliced on the bias to be served with coffee, tea or whatever you wish.

Traditionally served all over the Nederlands, as well as American Dutch communities, in copious quantities, around the Christmas holiday, Banket not only shows up in simple sticks, but in letter shapes as well.  I have not attempted to make letters as of yet, since I am perfectly happy with the sticks. 

If you don't feel like going to all the trouble to turn your pastry dough, you can opt for ready made puff pastry instead.  Though the only time I have ever had it made with puff pastry was when I bought it from a bakery. Most of the homemade Banket I have eaten has been made of turned "Pate Brisee".

Banket

385g (13.6 oz) (3 cups) AP Flour
1 tsp Baking Powder
1/2 tsp Kosher Salt
228g (8 oz) (1 cup) Unsalted Butter
1/3 - 1/2 cup Ice Water (depending on the weather)

2 large Eggs (separated)
228g (8 oz) Almond Paste 
125g (10 TB) Granulated Sugar
18g (2 TB) Cornstarch 

Place Flour, Baking Powder and Salt in a bowl; whisking to combine.

Add Butter, in slices.

Using the tips of your fingers, work the Butter into the Flour; producing little "flakes" (This is important; do not work it into "cornmeal" or your pastry will not be as flaky)

Add the Ice Water, beginning with about 5 TB (which is a little less than 1/3 cup) and work this into the dough until it just barely holds together. (if it is still dry add additional water 1 TB at a time.  Again, just until the dough comes together)

Immediately, turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and roll out.

Fold into thirds.

Turn the dough and roll again.

Fold into thirds.

Then wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes to relax the gluten.

Remove the dough and roll out, then fold.

Turn, roll and fold again.

Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out a third time.

Fold into thirds, roll and fold into thirds again.

Wrap the dough and store in the refrigerator overnight.

Whew!  I know it's a lot of work, but the flaky pseudo-puff pastry you will end up with is worth the effort.

Now once you have the dough made, turned and stored in the refrigerator, you can make the filling, cause you can store that in the refrigerator as well... Or you can wait until right before you are ready to make your Banket.

Preheat your oven to 350 F degrees and separate your eggs... Beat the yolks with a fork.

Add 1 tsp of water to the Whites and whisk them until they just begin to foam.

Break up the Almond Paste into the bowl of your electric mixer and add the Egg Yolks.

Beat this well, until the paste becomes batter-like.

Meanwhile, combine Sugar and Cornstarch in a small bowl.

When the Almond Paste and Egg Yolks have become homogeneous, lower the speed of the mixer and begin adding the Sugar mixture.

Continue beating until a soft dough forms.

Divide this into 4 pieces of approximately 100 g each.

Remove the pastry from the refrigerator and divide into 4 pieces as well.

Roll each piece out into a 4 x 14 inch rectangle.

Roll the Almond Dough into a 12 inch snake and place it near the edge, then apply egg white wash to the short ends of the pastry.

Fold the short sides over the ends of the Almond filling.

Now roll the pastry around the Almond dough, leaving it a little loose.  (The filling will swell a little while baking so give it a little room to expand or it will burst out the sides.)

Apply more egg wash at the seam and pinch to close.

Place on a parchment lined baking sheet, seam side down, and continue this way until you have 4 sticks.

Make vents every inch or so down each pastry to allow for steam to escape.

Brush with the Egg White wash and sprinkle with a little granulated sugar, if desired. (I usually don't)

Bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown.

Allow to cool on the baking sheet for 15 minutes before move to a rack and cool completely.

They can be stored in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic wrap and aluminum foil for about 1 week or in the freezer for about 2 months.

Mine never seem to last that long, for as soon as they are cool enough to eat, I slice 'em up and consume with delight.

Mangia!!
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