Delicious Risotto, Literally - Golden Delicious Risotto

I am a product of American Pop Culture.  I admit it, I have come to terms with it, and accept this in myself.

Every time someone mentions Pork Chops, I hear Peter Brady's imitation of Humphrey Bogart in the back of my mind saying, "Pork Chopsh and Apple Shauce, ain't that Shwell?"  And thus it is that, through the Brady Bunch, I learned to equate apples with pork.  True, there is the proverbial whole roasted pig with the apple in it's mouth, but I don't normally roast a whole pig.  And by "normally" I mean never.  So, for me, it was the Brady Bunch. 

Now, I am not saying that I actually "eat" said apple sauce with my pork chops.  It's not that I think the combination particularly odd or anything.  After all, if Peter Brady thought it was "shwell", then it must be, right?  Cause it was on TV, right?  If it wasn't "shwell", then why would the writers give him that line?  No, it's simply because I rarely have apple sauce around the house, and if I do, it has usually been utilized for Apple Sauce Cake or Apple Muffins, or some such other tidbit of deliciousness.  But, I finally got to wondering about the pairing of apples with pork and decided to give it a try.

Now, me being me, I had to walk a path less traveled by; possibly not at all...  By anyone... Ever.  This led to a little experiment (you saw that comin' didn't ya?) with a Golden Delicious Apple.

Now I am not a big fan of the Golden Delicious Apple, simply because they are so sweet.  I loved them as a kid, but only when they were green.  And let's face it... Produce moves around this country so fast now days that the farmers don't pick things as green as they use to.  Which has it's pluses, but in this case, the Golden Delicious Apples in the stores are almost always fully ripe.  But for this recipe, I thought I could get away with the apple being on the sweeter side cause I was gonna hit it hard with a crisp white wine and "savor-ize" it up with some Parmigiano-Reggiano and Mascarpone. 

If those ingredients ring any bells you probably guessed right.... I made an Apple Risotto.

The verdict on the experiment?  I thought it was tasty... So did my little brother... Savory with a hint of spiced sweetness.  Then again, we both like Cheddar on our Apple Pie so this dish is a natural fit.  My sister-in-law is not a risotto fan, no matter what the flavor so she opted out completely.  Dad was on the fence and Mom hated it.  I don't know... I would call 2 "likes", 1 undecided and 1 "no" a fairly favorable reception considering this side dish's unorthodoxy.

I am still trying to decide if I should have forewent the "hint of cinnamon" and opted for a "whisper of nutmeg" instead.  Personally do not care for nutmeg with apple.  Mace, yes, Nutmeg, no.  I am really more of a Cinnamon person.  I love sneaking Cinnamon in savory dishes when no one is looking.  Any excuse to buck the "system" that has regulated poor Cinnamon to only sweets.  Nutmeg, on the other hand, shows up in Bechamel as well as Spaetzle, Quiche (Lorraine and Florentine) and Scalloped Potatoes (like Pommes de Terre à la Dauphinoise) with a frequency that attests to it's escape from the same predicament as the ill-fated Cinnamon.

Delicious Risotto

4 cups Chicken Stock
2 TB Olive Oil
3/4 cup Golden Delicious Apple, peeled, cored and diced
2 TB unsalted Butter
1 Shallot, minced
1 cup Arborio Rice
1/2 cup Sauvignon Blanc (I chose one in the Green Apple and Gooseberry range)
1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 TB Mascarpone
1/16 tsp Cinnamon or 2 grates of Nutmeg (your choice)

Bring the Chicken Stock to a simmer in a small saucepan and dice the apple.

In a large skillet, heat 1 TB of the Olive oil over medium-low flame.

Add the apple and cook for about 10 minutes, just until it begins to soften slightly.

Remove the apple from the skillet and set aside.

Add the remaining 1 TB Olive Oil to the pan along with the Butter.

When foaming subsides, add the shallot and sweat until soft.

Add the Rice and saute for a couple minutes, until it begins to smell nutty.

Add the Wine and stir until it is absorbed.

Begin adding stock, 1 ladle at a time, stirring until each ladel-ful has been absorbed before adding the next.

After 10 minutes of cooking (when the risotto is about 1/2 done) add the diced Apple to the rice, then continue adding stock and stirring until the risotto is still a little al dente. (you may not use all the stock)

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, Mascarpone and Cinnamon or Nutmeg.

Cover and allow to rest for 3-5 minutes.

Stir everything together and serve.

Peter Brady was right, Apple and Pork really do play together well.  

So the next time you are serving Pork chops, or Pork Loin chops or even a Pork Tenderloin, I urge you to give this a try.

Yep, Pork Chopsh and Apple Rishoto, it's Shwell.

Mangia!!
~~

Food & Wine and Fennel - Risotto al Finocchio

Over the years that I've been posting anecdotes, recipes, and pictures, as well as some exceedingly boring stories of my childhood, here on Culinary Alchemy, I have made no bones about the fact that I adore Fennel.  Sadly, that adoration sometimes borders on obsession.  But I figure, hey, if I don't blog and talk about how delicious fennel is, then who will?

Honestly, I believe it is one of those vegetables that gets ignored in the United States.  We just don't consume enough fennel here.  Then again, we don't consume many leeks either.  But that is another post.  It could be because all the grocery stores mistakenly label it "anise"... Silly grocery stores.  They don't even look alike.

This is Anise.......

Which looks more like Yarrow or a flowering Fern......

This is Fennel......

Fennel looks like Dill Weed, but with an edible white bulb at the bottom.

So now that we have established that grocery store owners are obviously not botnists....

Let me dispel the myth that Fennel tastes like Licorice.  It doesn't, not really.  At least the bulb and fronds don't really taste like licorice... Sweet, yes.  Licorice-y, not so much.  The seeds on the other hand?  Well, I'll give ya that one. They do have a flavor that is decidedly similar to anise seed and/or licorice root.  The active ingredient, that most people perceive as licorice-ness, is Anethole.  It is found in the Fennel seeds in much higher concentrations than the leaves, stems or bulb of the plant.  The funniest part about this is that actual licorice root contains only an infinitesimal amount of this "anethole".  The flavor of licorice really comes from a chemical called "glycyrhhizin" which is 30-50 times sweeter than table sugar.  Unlike sugar, it's sweet flavor builds up and then lingers afterwards.  In essence, it pummels your taste buds with sweetness. Then it continues to linger and hang around like an unwelcome house guest.  So, technically, the flavor of licorice is really nothing more than a taste bud overload.  This is very different from the "fresh" taste of the anethole found in Anise, Star Anise and Fennel.  Though to be fair, candy manufacturers cheat and use anise and fennel oils in their licorice products as a filler for the more expensive glycyrhhizin.

If you want to taste REAL licorice, you'll have to order it over the internet from the Netherlands or possibly Italy, where they revel in the true flavor of the root.   

The point though, is that we should ALL be consuming more anethole.  It's GOOD for you.  I cannot stress this fact enough.  Anethole is an Anti-Inflammatory as well as a Cancer fighter.  Anethole has the amazing ability to shut down the inter-cellular signaling system called tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-mediated signaling.  By doing such, it prevents the release of an inflammation-triggering molecule called NF-kappaB.  Being high in vitamin C is also a bonus, since it's a water soluble antioxidant that boosts your immune system and assists in keeping your joints lubricated.  It also contains a healthy dose of Folate, which is necessary to convert the blood vessel damaging Homocysteine into less dangerous molecules.

It's a boon to the cook due to the fact that ALL parts of the plant are edible and taste slightly different, thus it provides multiple textures as well as multiple degrees of flavor depending.  The bulb is almost celery like in texture making it perfect in cooked preparations as well as being eaten raw.  The stems are more tender and great for seasoning soups.  The delicately flavored feathery leaves are excellent in salads for both texture and beauty.  The seeds, which come from a different cultivar than the bulb/stem/leaves, are of great importance when making sausages. I think you would be surprised to find how many different sausages contain fennel seeds, in varying amounts of course, but they are there.  Then there is the infamous fennel pollen.  What can I say?  It's the strongest flavored of them all, so a little goes a long way.

This is obviously one of my soap boxes.  I simply love the stuff.  All parts of it. So imagine how thrilling it was to see that the last issue of Food & Wine magazine featured a Risotto recipe containing Fennel.  I was absolutely beside myself with giddy delight.  Risotto is the great love of my life, and pairing it with one of my favorite vegetables is enough to throw me into a swoon. (I guess I truly am a food geek)

I had to change the recipe slightly though.  Not that I think I am an expert of anything, but I felt there was something missing from the recipe when I read it.  I do cook A LOT of fennel, so I am fairly opinionated as to how it should be cooked and what it should be augmented with. (OK, that does make me sound just a bit ego-centric doesn't it?)  How bout if I just say, "I know what I like with my Fennel".  I stayed open minded until the very end, and followed the recipe... but when I tasted it, right before removing from the heat to let it rest, I was right, it was missing "something"....  Citrus is always the perfect accompaniment to fennel.  In fact, I think it tastes a little odd if it's missing...  Thus, my addition.

Fennel Risotto

(Risotto al Finocchio)

3 cups Chicken Stock
1 cup Water
2 TB Olive Oil
1/4 of a Fennel Bulb, finely chopped
1/2 a Shallot, minced
1 cup Arborio Rice
1/4 cup White Wine (Look for citrus flavors)
1 TB Butter
Zest of 1/2 an Orange (Blood Orange, Meyer Lemon or Minneola are nice) 
1 oz Ricotta Salata or Mizythra

Combine Chicken Stock and Water in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. (Please note the gratuitous shot of my Corningware 4 cup Sauce Maker)  LOL

Heat olive oil in a saute pan set over medium flame.

Add the Fennel ans Shallot, sweating them slowly (about 15 minutes) until they start to caramelize and turn soft and sticky.

Add the Rice and cook until it begins to smell nutty.

Add the white wine and stir until absorbed.

Begin adding stock, and stirring, one ladle at a time.....

Continue adding the stock until the rice it al dente and well coated in creamy goodness.
Remove from the flame and add Butter and Orange Zest, then cover and let rest for 3-5 minutes.

Stir the risotto and serve with shaved Ricotta Salata or Mizythra.

I opted to try the Lamb Sausage as well and serve them together.....

The Risotto was phenomenally delicious, but the lamb sausage was a little TOO warm and pretty much masked the fennel as well as the lamb itself.  I will cut the red pepper flake in half the next time.

Mangia!!
~~

Risotto Blues - Risotto alla Gorgonzola

It's been a while since I have done a risotto post.  Oh, I have been making plenty of it.  Primarily due to the fact that risotto only takes about 20 minutes.  To me, that seems like a quick meal.  I mean, it takes just about that long to heat up fish fingers (sticks) in the oven... and you have to wait for the oven to heat up.

Not that I have been eating fish fingers or anything, but I have been eating more fish of late.  For example, I have just recently rediscovered Mahi Mahi, which is particularly delicious when baked in a hazelnut crust.  (YUM)   Then again, I am a fish fanatic.  From Albacore to Trout (I could not think of a fish with a "u" or"v", and I have never eaten Walleye Pike) and everything in between, I pretty much like them all. Fish cooks so quickly too; whether you sear it, poach it, bake it or fry it, it's always a fairly fast meal to prepare.  And THAT is pretty awesome!

But I digress....  The original point of bringing up the fish is... While it is generally frowned upon, in Italian cuisine, to combine cheese and seafood or fish in the same dish; there is no hard and fast rule that says you cannot have a cheesy dish on the side.  Gorgonzola Risotto is the perfect accompaniment to  Hazelnut Crusted Mahi Mahi. Or at least I think so.  Then again, I am a cheese freak too. 

Risotto alla Gorgonzola

1 TB olive oil
4 oz (113g) Pancetta
1 Shallot, Minced
1 cup (205g) Arborio rice
1/3 cup Pinot Grigio (Muscat Canelli is good too, though a little sweeter)
3 - 3 1/2 cups (700 - 825ml) Chicken Stock
3 oz (85g) Gorgonzola, crumbled and divided
Pinch Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste
1 TB unsalted butter

In a 1 1/2 quart saucepan, heat the stock to a simmer.

Place a saute pan over medium heat; when hot, add the Olive oil and the Pancetta, cooking until crisp.

Remove the Pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.

Add the shallot and sweat for a few minutes – until wilted and transparent, but not brown.

Add the rice and saute, stirring constantly for about 4 minutes.

Add the the wine and stir until absorbed.

Add the first ladle of broth and continue cooking and stirring until broth is absorbed.

Continue adding stock, 1 ladle at a time and stirring until the rice is al dente. (About 15 minutes)
Remove the risotto from the flame and stir in the Pancetta.

 Add half of the Gorgonzola and the Butter to the pot; stir until melted

Cover and let rest for 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining Gorgonzola right before serving, to there are un-melted chunks of cheese.

Mangia!!
~~

Happy Thanksgiving, from Italy!?! - Winter Squash Risotto

When someone mentions winter squash, I will be the first to admit, Italy is the furthest thing from my mind.  Let's face it; I have been conditioned to respond with, "MMMMMM, Pie".  Especially around the Thanksgiving season.  But American cooks are not the only ones who prepare this New World vegetable.  Oh no.  In fact, there is a traditional Risotto recipe from Lombardy (Italy) that is centered around winter squash.  Which makes me VERY happy, because I love all things risotto anyway.

OK, I will admit that I am not making this in the traditional way.  I am using some turkey stock instead of the traditional vegetable stock of Onions, Carrots, Celery and Leeks.  I did add part of a Leek to the Turkey Stock while it simmered though.  So I guess this is Pseudo-Traditional.  ;)

I chose Red Kuri squash because it has a chestnut like flavor (very northern Italian) and is only mildly sweet.  Most importantly though, is that it's a dryer squash.  This means that it will hold it's shape better while cooking.  Kobacha or Hubbard would be another great choice if you cannot find a Kuri or any of the actual Italian varieties like Berettina Piacentina or Zucca Blu.

I went with the traditional Grana Padano from Lombardy as opposed to Parmigiano-Reggiano from Emilia-Romagna.  I think its flavor pairs a little more smoothly with the squash.  A touch of Chervil rounds the flavors out nicely, but it's not an absolute necessity.

Risotto con Zucca

12 oz Kuri Squash
3 1/2 - 4 cups Turkey Stock
2 inches of Leek, split
4 TB Butter (divided)
1 Shallot Minced
1 1/4 cups Arborio Rice
1/2 cup Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay
1/3 cup Grana Padano, grated
1 TB Creme Fraiche or Mascarpone
optional - Dried Chervil

First you must dissect your squash.

Slice it in half. (Unlike Butternut squash, Kuri has less meat and more seeds)

Scoop out the seeds (being a dryer squash, the seed come out fairly easily in one large lump)

I usually quarter the squash, simply because it makes peeling a little easier. (12 oz is about 1/2 of a Kuri squash)

Peel and slice the squash into fairly thin slices.

Then cut the slices into little "elongated cubes" (the smaller you dice the squash the faster it will cook)

Begin heating the Turkey Stock with a split Leek in a small saucepan.

Melt 2 TB Butter in a separate saute pan.

Add Squash and Shallot, sauteing until the shallot is translucent. (Yes, it looks like a lot of squash, but the rice swells, it will be OK)

Add Rice and saute until it smells nutty.

Pour in the wine and stir until the wine is absorbed.

Begin adding the Turkey Stock, one ladle-ful at a time, stirring until each addition has been absorbed before adding the next.

Once the rice is al dente, remove from the heat and add the remaining 2 TB of Butter, Grana Padano and Creme Fraiche.

Cover with a towel and allow to set for 3-5 minutes.

If you like, and I DO like, hit it with a little dried Chervil before serving (I cannot find fresh Chervil at this time of year)

Then dish yourself up a huge helping and enjoy not only a taste of Italy, but a taste of Thanksgiving as well.

Mangia!!
~~