Risotto Blues - Risotto alla Gorgonzola

It's been a while since I have done a risotto post.  Oh, I have been making plenty of it.  Primarily due to the fact that risotto only takes about 20 minutes.  To me, that seems like a quick meal.  I mean, it takes just about that long to heat up fish fingers (sticks) in the oven... and you have to wait for the oven to heat up.

Not that I have been eating fish fingers or anything, but I have been eating more fish of late.  For example, I have just recently rediscovered Mahi Mahi, which is particularly delicious when baked in a hazelnut crust.  (YUM)   Then again, I am a fish fanatic.  From Albacore to Trout (I could not think of a fish with a "u" or"v", and I have never eaten Walleye Pike) and everything in between, I pretty much like them all. Fish cooks so quickly too; whether you sear it, poach it, bake it or fry it, it's always a fairly fast meal to prepare.  And THAT is pretty awesome!

But I digress....  The original point of bringing up the fish is... While it is generally frowned upon, in Italian cuisine, to combine cheese and seafood or fish in the same dish; there is no hard and fast rule that says you cannot have a cheesy dish on the side.  Gorgonzola Risotto is the perfect accompaniment to  Hazelnut Crusted Mahi Mahi. Or at least I think so.  Then again, I am a cheese freak too. 

Risotto alla Gorgonzola

1 TB olive oil
4 oz (113g) Pancetta
1 Shallot, Minced
1 cup (205g) Arborio rice
1/3 cup Pinot Grigio (Muscat Canelli is good too, though a little sweeter)
3 - 3 1/2 cups (700 - 825ml) Chicken Stock
3 oz (85g) Gorgonzola, crumbled and divided
Pinch Kosher Salt and Black Pepper to taste
1 TB unsalted butter

In a 1 1/2 quart saucepan, heat the stock to a simmer.

Place a saute pan over medium heat; when hot, add the Olive oil and the Pancetta, cooking until crisp.

Remove the Pancetta with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.

Add the shallot and sweat for a few minutes – until wilted and transparent, but not brown.

Add the rice and saute, stirring constantly for about 4 minutes.

Add the the wine and stir until absorbed.

Add the first ladle of broth and continue cooking and stirring until broth is absorbed.

Continue adding stock, 1 ladle at a time and stirring until the rice is al dente. (About 15 minutes)
Remove the risotto from the flame and stir in the Pancetta.

 Add half of the Gorgonzola and the Butter to the pot; stir until melted

Cover and let rest for 3 minutes.

Stir in the remaining Gorgonzola right before serving, to there are un-melted chunks of cheese.

Mangia!!
~~

Cheddar + Bacon = Love - White Cheddar & Pancetta Shortbread

Most of us are familiar with the salty-sweet and buttery delectable-ness of Shortbread.  Not so much known, at least not in the U.S. of A is the savory side of this rich cookie.  Though by definition no longer a cookie, since cookies are made from "sweet" dough, these little "Biscuits" are exquisitely delicious.

There is nothing quite as comforting as Bacon and Cheddar.  I am not sure why this is, maybe it's only me.  One of the best additions to I have seen to the "blue box" is crumbled bacon.  It's placed on Cheese burgers in every fast food joint across the United States.  Even the Dairy Queen commercials make a joke about using Bacon as a verb.  I mean, somebody out there must love the combination as much as I do. 



I must agree with the disturbingly disembodied singing lips though.  I honestly think that Bacon and Cheddar should be verbs.  OK, I guess "Cheddaring" is a verb, since it's a description of the cheese making process that makes Cheddar Cheese unique.  But I really think that bacon should be a verb as well.  Whether on Salad, a Sandwich or Burger, next to the eggs on your plate, or gracing the top of your maple bar from Voodoo Doughnuts, the simple act of adding bacon just makes everything heavenly.

There are even options with your bacon.... If you are one of those people who doesn't particularly care for smoked foods, then you can use Pancetta instead.  For Pancetta is Italian bacon, granted it's made from a different porcine part, but the idea is the same, it's simply not smoked.

So in the interest of promoting this little update to a language that allows you to "shoulder" a burden, "stomach" your in-laws and "head" an organization, here is my proposal. 

ba·con /ˈbeɪkən/ [bey-kuhn]
–noun
1.
The back and sides of the hog, salted and dried or smoked, usually sliced thin and fried for food.
2.
Also called white bacon. South Midland and Southern U.S. pork cured in brine; salt pork.

-verb
1.
To liberally apply bacon in, next to or on a culinary treat.
Shane baconed the shortbread 
Voodoo doughnuts bacons their maple bars.

This, then, leaves "bacon" open to morphing into verbals such as Participles and Gerunds (or even infinitives) thus allowing us to use the word as an adverb, adjective or, well, a noun. Bringing us full circle.

Present participle - "I am Baconing this shortbread recipe"

Gerund - Baconing is my favorite culinary trick.

Yep, I think it is definitely time to contact Merriam & Webster about this.

White Cheddar and Pancetta Shortbread

8 oz Unsalted Butter
5 oz White Cheddar Cheese, shredded
4 oz Pancetta, small dice (You can use Bacon if you like)
12 oz AP Flour

Heat a saute pan over medium flame then add the pancetta and cook until it's all nice and crispy, golden brown and yummy.

Drain on paper towels and let cool completely.

Meanwhile, grate the White Cheddar finely.

Beat the butter until it's fluffy.

Add the shredded White Cheddar and continue beating. (the mixture will get a little lumpy looking)

Reduce the mixer speed to low and begin adding the flour.

When you have achieved a "crumb" appearance, remove the bowl from the mixer and stir in the crispy pancetta with a spatula.

Work the dough into a squared log, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325.
Slice 1/4 inch cookies from the log and place them 1 inch apart on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Bake for 15 - 20 minutes or until the edges just begin to turn golden.

Let the cookies rest for 5 minutes on the baking sheet before moving them to a rack and let them cool completely.

Enjoy with a frosty Dark Lager or Pumpkin Ale.

Mangia!!
~~

'Twas the Week Before Christmas and All Through the House....

Wafted the scent of shortbread, hungering the mouse...... 

I have a confession to make...  Though it may seem a little silly to put so much pressure on a simple cookie, it's just not Christmas without shortbread.  And while I vaguely alluded to this last year around the holidays when I published my Scottish Shortbread recipe, I feel the time has come to divulge the somewhat scary truth about my Christmas Shortbread obsession.   For Green Tea and Plain are merely the tip of the iceberg.

With the advent of English Toffee Shortbread I have added yet another feather in the proverbial Christmas Shortbread "hat".  Which is awesome, cause one should always have delicious treats ready just in case carolers stop by or you have impromptu guests.  For nothing bespeaks of the Holidays like a warm cup of coffee or tea with a delicious shortbread cookie.

My admission of this idée fixe comes with a warning....  There will be several more posts forth coming such as Lavender and Meyer Lemon Shortbread, Candy Cane Shortbread, Lemon Drop Shortbread and, of course, I will be revisiting English Toffee Shortbread, Green Tea Shortbread and good old traditional Scottish Shortbread petticoat tails, to be swathed with copious quantities of fresh Key Lime curd.  YUM!

Then, just because I HAVE to be a little off-centered;  I will be bustin out some Savory Shortbreads.. Yep, savory ones, such as Chive and Provolone (served with Creme Fraiche and Caviar), Roasted Garlic with Thyme and Asiago as well as White Cheddar and Pancetta.   Cause nothin' says lovin' from the Holiday oven like Bacon!!!  Am I right; or am I right?

You will notice that some of these recipes use Cultured Butter, while others do not.  This is a judgment call in regards to the flavor.  For instance, the Lavender and Meyer Lemon shortbread really benefits from the use of Cultured Butter, it adds subtle nuances to the flavor.  The same goes for the savory Chive Shortbread.  However, when it comes to White Cheddar and Bacon or Candy Cane shortbread, the flavor of the added ingredients completely dominates, thus I have opted to use regular unsalted butter in these.  After all, Cultured Butter is expensive so it's use must be relegated to only those recipes where it is of paramount importance to over-all flavor.

You will also notice that most of the recipes are the same basic recipe with different "additions".  While this is true for the most part, there are certain changes to the "when" and "how" these additions are incorporated.  The Lemon Drops, Candy Canes and English toffee are all stirred in at the end; the Lavender and Meyer lemon zest, however, are added when beating the butter in order for the butter to absorb the oil soluble flavor components.  The cheeses are beaten into the butter to form a homogeneous mixture.  In a way, they are acting like the sugar component of sweet shortbread.

All of these recipes offer you a choice....  I chose to roll and cut some of them out because I had specific shapes in mind that I felt would be aesthetically pleasing with their white chocolate adornment.

While with others, I simply formed a log, refrigerated and sliced.

The choice is yours.

OK, I think I have yapped enough at this point...   So I will leave you with a picture of some of what is to come...  :)  

Top from the left: Lavender and Meyer Lemon, Green Tea with Orange oil White Chocolate, English Toffee
Bottom from the left: Lemon Drop with Lemon oil White Chocolate, Candy Cane with Peppermint White Chocolate

I would have thrown in the savory ones, but I have not baked them yet.  There just isn't enough time in the day.

Mangia!!
~~

Boeuf Bourguignon; Revisited

I just realize that ALL I have been blogging about for the last month or so is Sweets..... And while sweets are delicious, their not so nutritious. I think it's time for some real food. Not that I haven't been eating real food over the last month. I have, and most definitely, since I really don't care for sweets myself. Well except for pie. Can you blame me? I mean, who doesn't like pie?

Most if not all of the goodies I have been making have been for others to enjoy. But because of the time it takes to make those sugar laced bits of goodness, I have been sorely lacking in photographing my actual meals. Way too many photos to take as well as process. My old Titanium 500 Powerbook sees me coming and starts to groan in pain. The poor thing. (I did get a 1.67 Aluminum of of eBay for a song, but I have not had the time to sit down and transfer everything over to it yet, and I really need a fire wire)

I have also been recycling a lot of dishes that I have already made, such as Linguine alla Carbonara, Risottos of various types, Saltimbocca alla Romagna, Spaghettini alla Puttanesca, Flower Pot Chicken and salads. Yeah, lots and LOTS of salads. Massive craving for leafy greens goin on up here. However........

One thing I cooked up and kind of took pictures was Julia Child's infamously delicious Boeuf Bourguignon. Cause it has been bitterly cold and it just sounded hearty and delicious. It is pretty much the same recipe I followed before, except for.......

I used Pancetta instead of bacon.
I used Pinot Noir, instead of Barbera (Pinot Noir is from the Burgundy region of France)
I used Onion (just like the original recipe called for) instead of substituting a leek like I did before.
I used a Chuck Roast instead of a Tri-Tip roast like before.
Oh, and I used a medley of pearl onions... Yellow, White and Red all mixed together.
 They are all pretty standard deviations from the original recipe. I mean you could just as easily make it with Syrah if that is what is in your wine rack (but lemme tell ya, the Pinot was AWESOME) and while Julia mentions "white" pearl onions, I used gold the last time, and, for me at least, Bacon and Pancetta are pretty much interchangeable.. depending on how much smoke flavor I want in a dish. The point is, the only reason I am rehashing this recipe is my need to share what happened at the Meat Market when I was hunting down a significantly large hunk of meat... LOL

So I walk in to the Meat Market, see? and I ask the gentleman behind the counter if he could recommend a different cut of beef for Boeuf Bourguignon, cause I didn't want to use the Tri-Tip again. He goes in the locker and comes back with a whole Beef Tenderloin in tow, at $11.95 a lb ?!?!?!?! (Which is actually a pretty good price, but still.)

I looked at him and said, "Um... You're suggesting that I cook a 3 pounds of Beef Tenderloin in Beef stock, for 2 1/2 hours in the oven?"

He looks at me like I am dense and says, "Well, yes... Cause it will be REALLY tender."

I rephrased and said, "Really, Beef Burgundy (yes, in English this time) with Tenderloin.. Hmmm And here I though that was for Filet Mignon and Chateau Briand (Which is a pounded Tenderloin)"

I mean come on.... I could use Shoe Leather in Beouf Bourguignon and it will be deliciously tender after cooking in moist heat for 2-3 hours.

He just looked at me again, like I was a dolt, and said "They're both French." LMAO.....

So evidently, some people have this misconception that the only piece of cow that they eat in France is the tenderloin. Either that or he really did think I was an idiot and I would purchase a tenderloin at 3 times the price!

So, I bought a chuck roast...And quite a beautiful Chuck roast it was... And literally 1/3 the price of the Tenderloin, and let's face it... Chuck has more flavor than tenderloin does.

Boeuf Bourguignon 
Beef Burgundy

1 10-inch pot that is at least 3 inches deep (This time I used the pyroceram Corningware - Cause you have to cook on the stove and in the oven)
8 oz Pancetta
1 TB Olive Oil
3 LB Chuck Roast
2 Carrot, Sliced
1 Onion, Chopped
1/4 tsp Salt
1/4 tsp Black Pepper
2 TB Flour
3 cups Pinot Noir (I used a 2006 Carmel Road from Monterey, CA)
2-3 cups Beef Stock (I only needed 2)
1 TB Tomato Paste
2 cloves of Garlic; crushed
1 sprig Thyme
1 Bay Leaf
1 Sprig of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
1 recipe Brown-Braised Onions (recipe follows)
1 recipe Butter Sautéed Mushrooms (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Slice into 2 inch chunks and pat all pieces of Beef dry with paper towels. (It's true, dry meat browns better)

Chop the Onion and slice the Carrot.

Place casserole over medium high heat and add olive oil. (I used Pyroceram CorningWare instead of enameled cast iron)

Sauté the Pancetta in oil until browned and the fat is rendered out;

then remove with a slotted spoon, to a plate. (mmmm pancetta goodness)

Begin searing the dried Beef chunks in several batches, you don't want to crowd the pan or they won't brown as nicely.

Once they are browned on all sides, remove to the plate with the Bacon.

Add the sliced Vegetables and sauté until they soak up all the delicious meaty goodness left in the pan.

Remove them from the pot, and set aside as well. (mmmmm Pancetta & Beef goodness sautéed right in)

Pour out any remaining fat and add the Beef and Bacon back to the pot.

Sprinkle with Flour and toss to coat, then place in the oven, on the top rack, uncovered, for 4 minutes; toss again and bake 4 minutes more, to brown the Flour (it will smell nutty)

Place pot back on the stove top over medium heat and add the vegetables.

Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees, then add the wine to the pot.

Then pour in just enough beef stock to barely cover the meat along with Tomato Paste, Garlic, Herbs, Salt and Pepper.

Bring to a simmer and place in the lower rack of the oven, covered, for 2 1/2 - 3 hours.


Meanwhile.......Your going to need about 6 TB of browned butter for these next two recipes.
So simply melt 8 TB unsalted butter in a sauce pan skimming the foam until the proteins brown slightly.... Then strain through cheese cloth.

For complete instructions please check out "Butter May Be Better, But Browned Butter is Best".

Brown-Braised Pearl Onions
Oignons Glacés á Brun

18-24 mixed Pearl Onions (white is preferred, but I thought this was fun)
1 1/2 TB Browned Butter (Beurre Noisette)
1 1/2 TB Olive Oil
1/2 cup Beef Stock
Salt and Pepper to taste
4 sprigs Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
1 Bay Leaf
2 sprigs of Thyme

Heat a Browned Butter and oil in a skillet over medium heat.

Add the pearls and sauté for about 10 minutes until somewhat uniformly brown.

Add Beef stock and season with Salt and pepper; add the Herbs, cover and reduce heat to medium-low; over and simmer for 40-50 minutes, or until the onions are tender but still hold their shape.

Remove from the pan and set aside.

While the onions are simmering.......

Mushrooms Sautéed in Browned Butter
Champignons Sautés au Beurre Noisette

1 LB Fresh Mushrooms (again, I used Cremini; AKA Baby Bella, Italian Brown)
4 TB Browned Butter (Beurre Noisette)
1 1/2 TB Minced Shallot
Salt and Pepper to taste

Prepare the Mushrooms. Mine were pretty big so I quartered them instead of slicing. (They were gorgeous mushrooms)

These take about 4 batches to sauté properly, don't over crowd the pan, or they will not brown and will give up their liquid, steaming themselves and not actually sautéing.

For each batch, place 1 TB Browned Butter and 1/2 TB Olive oil in a skillet set over medium heat.
Add 1/4 of the Mushrooms and sauté until browned lightly. (They will get shiny at first, but they will brown after that)

Remove each batch and set aside until all 4 batches are sautéed.
Then add ALL the Mushrooms back to the pan along with the Shallot and Salt and Pepper, tossing for about 1 minute.

Remove from pan and set aside.

Bringing the whole Kit and Kaboodle together.....

The Pearl Onions should be completed, the Mushrooms should be completed, so now is the time to do a quick clean up and take about a 30 -45 minute nap before the Bourguignon is finished in the oven... LOL Please make sure that you wake up when the timer goes off though.

When the meat is tender, after about 2 1/2 hours, remove the casserole from the oven.

Pour off the wine/stock from the casserole to a small sauce pan and skim the fat off the top.
Add the Mushrooms and Pearl onions to the Beef/Vegetables.
Simmer the sauce for a few minutes, skimming any additional fat that rises, to reduce to about 2 1/2 cups. Last time I didn't have to do this, but I think the Corning ware made a tighter seal and I didn't loose as much moisture as I did with my casts iron pot.

Pour sauce over Beef and Vegetables.
Bring the whole thing back to a simmer for 2-3 minutes while occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the gravy-esque goodness.

And serve with Italian Parsley for color and Ciabatta Rolls to soak up the gravy goodness.


And once again, you have a big steaming bowl of Bovine Nirvana. I really have to hand it to Julia, I don't like beef, yet I just can't seem to get enough of this stuff.


Mangia!!
~~

Thanksgiving Cherry Bomb - Truffled Pancetta and Cherry Salad

This salad has become a Thanksgiving staple over the last 8 years, whether I am with my family in Portland or with my friends in San Diego. It's a modified version of a recipe by Michael Chiarello I picked up a many many moons ago. Originally calling for cider vinegar, porcini oil and dried sour cherries soaked in water. I use to make this with dried cranberries, but the only dried cranberries I seem to be able to find the last few years are "sweetened". (YUCK!) So I have returned to using the tart Montmorency cherries.

I have always thought that it was such a waste to soak them in water when it seems like the perfect opportunity to add a little kick, by macerating the cherries/cranberries in SOME sort of alcohol. With unsweetend cranberries I would typically use Orange Muscat, Moscato or Muscat Canelli for soaking, but there is no reason you could not use Gran Marnier to add a hint of orange, Maraschino to lend a bit of almond, or even St. Germaine to add some floral notes to your salad. I would stay out of the heavier liquor though, it may be a bit much for the champagne vinegar and the truffle oil.

Truffled Pancetta and Cherry Salad

1/4 cup dried Sour Cherries (Montmorency)
alcohol for soaking (Be it wine or liqueur, this year I used a wonderful Cranberry wine)
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 oz Pancetta, diced
1 TB minced Garlic
1 TB chopped fresh Thyme leaves
Fresh ground black pepper
1/4 cup Champagne Vinegar
2 TB Italian White Truffle Olive oil
Kosher Salt
6 cups mixed baby greens (roughly 2 of the pre-prepped bags of salad)
6 ounces fresh goat cheese (Chevre) I usually use Silver Goat brand

In a small bowl, macerate dried cherries in your chosen alcohol, then set aside to soften.

Pour 1 TB olive oil into a medium skillet over medium heat.

Add pancetta and sauté until the fat is rendered out, drain pancetta reserving 1 TB of fat from the pan.

Add 2 TB Olive oil to the skillet & increase the heat to medium-high so you can sauté the Pancetta again until it's crispy; then add the garlic and sauté a little longer until the garlic becomes golden.

Turn heat down to medium-low and add the thyme and 10 – 15 grinds of black pepper, then deglaze the pan with Champagne vinegar, be sure to scrape the pan to release the fond.

Reduce vinegar by half.

Remove from heat and whisk in the Truffle oil and a pinch of Kosher Salt.

Place mixed baby greens in a salad bowl.

Drain the Cherries and add to the salad and toss biefly.

Pour Pancetta mixture over greens and toss quickly, just until the greens begin to wilt.

Crumble goat cheese over the greens and toss lightly.

Serve immediately...

It looks a little messy, but I assure you, it is absolute heaven on a salad fork. It works better served individually with chevre sprinkled on top instead of tossed in, never the less, when there are hungry mouths to feed, sometimes speed and convenience are of the essence. LOL

Mangia!!
~~