Eggs'quisite Eggs - Poached Scrambled Eggs in Cheese Sauce

Every once in awhile, I read an article in a food magazine and become obsessed.  It was like that with the Fleur de Sel Caramel Chocolate Cake... and so it was with Daniel Patterson's Poached Scrambled Eggs published in Food and Wine Magazine. 

I am an egg fan to begin with... Fried, Basted, Omeletted, Coddled, Baked, Poached, Frittata'ed, Scrambled, Boiled, Belgianed, Scotched and even on Pizza... they're ALL good.  In fact, if there were no eggs, I am thoroughly convinced I would starve to death.  Oh sure, there would still be cheese, but a wise man once said, "Man cannot live by cheese alone."  Though I would definitely give it a try.    :)

Luckily this dish combines these two ingredients in a brilliant new way. Thus ensuring that I will not starve and that I will not have to attempt living on cheese alone.  I mean come on-- eggs and cheese.  Can it possibly get any better?  I think not.  OK, I will concede the point that Bacon might make it better, but as shocking as it may sound, I am a bit dubious as to whether my beloved nitrate ridden porcine products could possibly improve on the transcendental experience this dish evokes.

Usually, when I am poaching eggs, my main objective is to keep the egg intact as much as possible, thus ensuring my yolks remain all nice and runny.  I would never have conceived of poaching "scrambled" eggs.  It might be because of my chosen method of scramblization.  Normally I just crack the eggs into the pan, allow them to cook for about 30 seconds, then start stirring with a fork... in the pan.  Towards the end, I add a little Cream Cheese and some shredded Basil.  But the point is, I don't pre-scramble my eggs in a bowl before they enter the hot pan.  I have seen people on TV do it that way over and over again, but it just never sunk in. I have simply continued to scramble eggs the way my mom and grandmother do.

Now I see the advantage of scrambling ahead of time in a bowl; it affords the opportunity for some slightly unconventional egg cookery.  :)   Lemme tell ya, I think I am going to be cooking my scrambled eggs this way from now on.  Cause golly bob howdy, Vern! They are GOOD in all their permutations. 

Oh yes...  I do mean permutations.  This recipe is a great frame work for some awesome eggs.  Not a fan of Goat cheese?  Try Mascarpone and Pecorino Tartufo with Thyme.  Sheep milk cheese not your thing?  How does Cream Cheese and Gruyere with Chives grab you?  Well, I have tried all 3 and they are all decadently delicious.   

Poached Scrambled Eggs in Goat Cheese Sauce

1 cup warm Water, divided; plus more for poaching the eggs
4 oz soft fresh Goat Cheese, such as Chevre
2 oz aged hard Goat Cheese, such as Etude or goat Gouda, shredded
1 TB freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper
4 large Eggs
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling 
1 tsp chopped Rosemary, Chives, Tarragon or Thyme (Your Choice)

Prepare water for poaching by adding about 3-4 cups of water to a saute pan and set it over medium-high flame.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by combining fresh goat cheese with 1/4 cup of warm water

and whisking until smooth.

In a small saucepan, bring 3/4 cup of water to a simmer.

Stir in the aged goat cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano until melted and smooth.

Whisk in the fresh goat cheese "sauce".

Season with Salt and Pepper, then keep warm over VERY low heat.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs well.

Once the poaching liquid is simmering, use a wooden spoon to stir the water vigorously in a circular motion to create a whirlpool in the center.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and stop stirring.

Immediately pour the scrambled eggs into the center.

Cover the pot and cook for exactly 40 seconds.

Using a slotted spoon to hold the eggs back, tilt the saucepan and pour off the water into the sink.

Carefully transfer the scrambled eggs to a strainer, preferably in once piece, and let drain for 10 seconds.

Divide the eggs between 4 bowls.

Then spoon the warm cheese sauce all around.

Drizzle with Olive Oil, Salt and Pepper.

Sprinkle with fresh Rosemary, Chives, Tarragon or Thyme.

Serve immediately.

Now THAT is a big bowl of love!

Mangia!!
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Thanksgiving Cherry Bomb - Truffled Pancetta and Cherry Salad

This salad has become a Thanksgiving staple over the last 8 years, whether I am with my family in Portland or with my friends in San Diego. It's a modified version of a recipe by Michael Chiarello I picked up a many many moons ago. Originally calling for cider vinegar, porcini oil and dried sour cherries soaked in water. I use to make this with dried cranberries, but the only dried cranberries I seem to be able to find the last few years are "sweetened". (YUCK!) So I have returned to using the tart Montmorency cherries.

I have always thought that it was such a waste to soak them in water when it seems like the perfect opportunity to add a little kick, by macerating the cherries/cranberries in SOME sort of alcohol. With unsweetend cranberries I would typically use Orange Muscat, Moscato or Muscat Canelli for soaking, but there is no reason you could not use Gran Marnier to add a hint of orange, Maraschino to lend a bit of almond, or even St. Germaine to add some floral notes to your salad. I would stay out of the heavier liquor though, it may be a bit much for the champagne vinegar and the truffle oil.

Truffled Pancetta and Cherry Salad

1/4 cup dried Sour Cherries (Montmorency)
alcohol for soaking (Be it wine or liqueur, this year I used a wonderful Cranberry wine)
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 oz Pancetta, diced
1 TB minced Garlic
1 TB chopped fresh Thyme leaves
Fresh ground black pepper
1/4 cup Champagne Vinegar
2 TB Italian White Truffle Olive oil
Kosher Salt
6 cups mixed baby greens (roughly 2 of the pre-prepped bags of salad)
6 ounces fresh goat cheese (Chevre) I usually use Silver Goat brand

In a small bowl, macerate dried cherries in your chosen alcohol, then set aside to soften.

Pour 1 TB olive oil into a medium skillet over medium heat.

Add pancetta and sauté until the fat is rendered out, drain pancetta reserving 1 TB of fat from the pan.

Add 2 TB Olive oil to the skillet & increase the heat to medium-high so you can sauté the Pancetta again until it's crispy; then add the garlic and sauté a little longer until the garlic becomes golden.

Turn heat down to medium-low and add the thyme and 10 – 15 grinds of black pepper, then deglaze the pan with Champagne vinegar, be sure to scrape the pan to release the fond.

Reduce vinegar by half.

Remove from heat and whisk in the Truffle oil and a pinch of Kosher Salt.

Place mixed baby greens in a salad bowl.

Drain the Cherries and add to the salad and toss biefly.

Pour Pancetta mixture over greens and toss quickly, just until the greens begin to wilt.

Crumble goat cheese over the greens and toss lightly.

Serve immediately...

It looks a little messy, but I assure you, it is absolute heaven on a salad fork. It works better served individually with chevre sprinkled on top instead of tossed in, never the less, when there are hungry mouths to feed, sometimes speed and convenience are of the essence. LOL

Mangia!!
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