Showing posts with label Chevrie. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chevrie. Show all posts

Thursday, April 2, 2009

You Scream, I Scream, We all Scream for... Gelato!!!

Why not Ice Cream? Oh Man, Gelato is SO much better! It's not just the "Italian Version" of Ice Cream. American Ice Cream, is defined as a frozen dairy product containing at least 10% Milk fat, while Gelato usually has less (7% or less). This is why the flavor of Gelato is more intense than mere Ice Cream. Fat coats the tongue and inhibits the taste buds.

Gelato is also served 10 degrees warmer, so it melts immediately over the tongue giving the burst of flavor Gelato is known for. Cold inhibits the tongues ability to taste, thus diminishing the flavor of Ice Cream.

Most Ice Cream is based on egg custard, unless it's Pennsylvania style. Gelato is sometimes bound by eggs, but can also be bound by cornstarch or contain no binders at all. Thus giving a purer flavor. It actually more closely resembles Ice Milk that anything else.

Gelato is made in a slightly different machine. An Ice Cream maker's "dasher" is designed to incorporate air into the finished product, up to half the volume of Ice Cream can be air. This gives is a "lightness". Air has no flavor, thus it diminishes the flavor of Ice Cream cause 45% of it is air. Gelato doesn't contain air, maybe 2% tops. It seems a little more "dense" but it's ALL flavor baby!!!

I give you this simple formula---

Less Fat + 10 Degrees -Air = Intensley Rich, Creamy Flavor = Gelato

This recipe is a little different. It's a Cinnamon flavored Ricotta Gelato, with a touch of Goat Cheese for a tang. The texture is not as smooth as is normally found, but that could also be because I do not really have access to much more than Ricotta from a tub in the MegaMart.

Gelato di Ricotta Cannella
2 cups Goat Milk
1/3 cup Granulated Sugar
1/4 cup Orange Blossom Honey (clover or vetch will work too)
4 broken Cinnamon Sticks
1/2 Mexican Vanilla Bean; Scraped of Caviar
1 1/4 oz fresh Goat Cheese (Montrachet, Chevre)
10 1/2 oz Ricotta Cheese (preferably goat, but cow will work)
Pinch of Salt


Combine Goat Milk, Sugar, Honey, Cinnamon, Vanilla Bean and Goat Cheese in a medium saucepan; heat, whisking frequently, over medium heat just to a bare simmer. (The French have a term for this, but I cant remember what it is right now, its late. Right before simmering is achieved, the surface of the liquid will kind of quiver, THAT is what you are looking for)

Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
Stir in ricotta cheese and pinch salt.

Pass mixture through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl.

Prepare and ice bath

Chill in an ice bath or in refrigerator until very cold.

Drag out the Ice Cream maker (they do actually make home Gelato machines)

Turn the icecream maker on, then slowly pour the chilled mixture into the machine. (Mine takes about 20 minutes for Gelato, 25-30 for Ice Cream)

Transfer to an airtight container and place in freezer to harden, about 2 hours or over night.

I have 2 options for serving, one of which will hopefully be a successful Alchemic surprise, but I am waiting on UPS...

Sorry to keep you in suspense.... ;)
OK, it has been completed, you can check it out here - Blood Orange Coulis
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Thursday, March 12, 2009

Lots of Leeks - Fettuccine con Crema Porri y Salmone Affumicato

Leeks, are the most underutilized member of the allium genus, or at least here in the United States. Leeks are to Onions as Elephant Garlic is to regular Garlic. And while they are ALL in the Lily family(alliaceae), which includes, or course, the lily as well as narcissus and asparagus. Elephant Garlic is actually a wild Leek. To confuse the world of “onions” even more, scallions (Green onion, Springs onion) are often referred to as “Shallots” in other parts of the world, while eschallot is use to denote what we, in the U.S., call a shallot. But that is another posting.

Getting back to the ancient leek…..
Oh, yes, Leeks are not only mentioned in the bible, but Egyptians planted them as far back as 3000 BCE, possibly 4000. Leeks are a fantastic edition to any dish as they marry well with just about everything, adding their subtle flavor without being overbearing. They can be eaten raw in salads or sautéed with your favorite vegetables. They pair excellently with lighter fish, such as tilapia, where an onion may completely overpower the delicate flavor.

Me?
I like to use them with the milder cheeses such as Gorgonzola Dolce, Humbolt Fog, Chevrie or Brie. I use them to make Aushak, an Afghan dish of Leek stuffed “dumplings’ served with Yogurt/Mint sauce and Meat sauce. They are excellent paired with mushrooms in soups. This brings me to one of my favorites… You cannot make Crème Vichyssoise without the humble leek.

Tonight, I was in a pasta mood. I was going to use my package of Lemon-Pepper Pappardelle, which is normally served with heavier meat sauces, but, I like to break a few molds here and there, cause I am a rebel. Like, in this case, serving Cheese with Fish… Although I am not sure that smoked salmon counts as fish anymore, since it is cured… It’s kind of like the difference between a Sirloin Steak and Jerky. Then I got home and realized that my package of Pappardelle was too small, it was like 6 oz... So I used normal fettuccine instead.
And Speaking of variations, this is a great recipe if you have left over baked or poached salmon. I would recommend using Brie instead of the Chevre, then simply sprinkle with a little smoked salt.

Fettuccine con Crema Porri y Salmone Affumicato

3 TB Olive oil
3 Leeks, halved lengthwise and sliced; (white and light green parts)
3/4 Cup Half and half
4 oz Soft Goat Cheese, crumbled; (I use chevre)
12 0z Fettuccine
Kosher Salt
Freshly Ground Green Pepper
4 oz Smoked Salmon; chopped
Zest of 1 lemon
(optional) Finely minced Italian Parsley

Begin heating a pot of water to cook Pappardelle
Slice dark green leaves from the Leeks, then in half length-wise wash under water to ensure all sand is removed.

Slice thinly.

Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet
Add sliced leeks and sauté until golden and tender, about 10 minutes.

Using a fork, Flake the Smoked Salmon.

Add half and half and crumbled goat cheese and stir until goat cheese melts.

Remove sauce from heat.
Season the sauce with Salt and Ground Green Pepper.


Meanwhile, cook fettuccine in large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until pasta is just tender.
Drain fettuccine and place in a bowl.
Pour sauce over the fettuccine and toss until thoroughly coated.

Transfer Pappardelle to individual bowls.
Top with smoked salmon and hit it with Lemon Zest and a littel finely minced parsley if desired.

Serve immediately.

Mangia!!!