Marx Foods' Shrooms for Soup Challenge - Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

It's been a while, I know.   But I am back in the saddle momentarily; primarily because I cannot resist a good challenge.  Especially if it involves Mushrooms.  I'm just sayin'.

Thus, I am taking on the latest Marx Foods Challenge, which involves creating a soup utilizing dried Mushrooms.  (Shrooms for Soup)  This could not have been a more timely challenge.  I am totally in soup mode.  It's an Autumnal favorite of mine, in all it's permutations.  OK, disclaimer time....  (you knew it was coming)  All opinions stated here are my own and no funds have been exchanged between Marx Food's and myself.....   blah blah blah blah.... OK enough of that...

The selection from Marx Foods included Porcini (Bolete), Matsutake (Pine Mushroom) and Black Trumpets (Horn of Plenty, Black Chanterelles, Poor Man's Truffle, or Trumpet of the Dead).  Not your run of the mill mushrooms, that's for sure.

I am also positive that, if you have been following this blog for any length of time, the litany of AKA's for the Black Trumpet was a dead giveaway as to which one I chose to grace my soup recipe.  

Considering the flavor of Black Trumpets, being buttery, nutty and slightly smoky, I felt they would be the perfect with Oysters.  Of course, I have been craving oyster stew for the last couple weeks anyway, so this just made it that much better.  Though Black Trumpets season is now, being late summer and fall, they are one of the best dried mushrooms available.  They hold their flavor VERY well, so fresh or dried, I don't think it really makes no difference.

Oyster stew is a little tricky.  The whole point is to keep it as simple as possible and NOT over do it with added "stuff".  It's suppose to taste like a "creamy ocean" when you are done.  It's definitely a case of "Less is More".  That includes "less" Flour (this isn't a thick chowder) and "less" Oysters.  It should not be completely stuffed with meat.  Figure about 6-8 oysters per person.  That's all.  It's really all about the flavor of the delicate sweet & buttery milk broth.  mmmmmmmmm

This "less is more" philosophy is part of the reason I use Leeks in my soup; a lot of soups actually, but in oyster stew in particular.  Leeks are a member of the onion family; an easy going member of the onion family.  Like the friend who helps you in the kitchen without taking over your party.  Their unassuming nature makes 'em the perfect fit for Oysters, lending flavor without stomping all over the Oyster's delicate flavor.  As an added bonus, Leeks are divine with mushrooms in general.

So thus, armed with Leeks, Black Trumpets, Oysters and a significant amount of Butter and Cream, I present "The Ocean in a Bowl"

Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

24-32 Fresh Oysters (or 2 10oz Jars in Small or Petite)
1/4 oz Dried Black Trumpet Mushrooms (don't over do it)
1 Leek, quartered and sliced (white and light green parts)
1 Garlic Clove, minced fine
4 TB Unsalted Butter, divided
2 TB AP Flour
~1 cup Heavy Cream
2 cups Whole Milk
A good Slug o' White Wine
Italian Parsley, chopped fine

So, first, unless you have fresh Black Trumpets, you need to soak the Black Trumpets in some warm water to rehydrate them (just enough to cover them)

While the mushrooms are soaking, shuck the oysters, reserving the liquid, then filter the liquid through a fine mesh strainer, into a 2 cup measuring receptacle, to ensure there are no small bits of shell; set both the oysters and the liquid aside for now.

After you have shucked the oysters, the mushrooms should be thoroughly hydrated, so filter the mushroom juice through a fine mesh strainer into the same 2 cup measuring devise as the Oyster juice. (I left my Trumpets whole, but you can chop them up a little, if you like)

You should have about 1 cup of Oyster/Mushroom Juices.

Add enough Heavy Cream to make 2 cups, then set aside.

Begin melting 3 TB unsalted Butter in a 2 quart pot set over Medium-Low flame. (your goin' for a "sweat", not a saute)

When melted, add the Leeks and the Garlic and sweat until they begin to soften slightly.

Add the Black Trumpets and continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes longer.

Add the Flour and stir to thoroughly coat the Black Trumpets and Leeks, then continue cooking and stirring until the flour begins to smell nutty.

Pour in the Trumpet/Oyster/Heavy Cream mixture, stirring constantly to ensure the Flour is dissolved.

Add the Whole Milk as well, stirring again to ensure everything is well mixed, then let everything just sort of hang out over Medium-Low, stirring occasionally, while you deal with the Oysters.

In an 8 inch skillet, melt the remaining 1 TB Unsalted Butter over Medium flame.

Once melted, add the Oysters.

Cook until they begin to give off liquid and they sort of "plump up" and the edges just begin to "curl". (overcooked Oysters are disgusting leathery things that are just NOT tasty)

Remove the Oysters from the skillet with a slotted spoon and immerse then into the warm Soup.

Give the soup a good slug of white wine....  And, if you want, you can filter the liquid from the skillet through a fine mesh strainer and into the soup as well.

Season the soup with Salt and Pepper.

Cover the the soup and reduce the flame to LOW....

Way low...  As low as you can possibly go. You really only need to keep it warm for about 10 minutes to give all the flavors chance to get to know one another and meld into an elixir of unfettered deliciousness that makes angels weep.  (I'm just sayin')

Serve with a sprinkle of freshly chopped Italian Parsley. (and oysters crackers, if you like)

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM  The Black Trumpets were a perfect addition to my Oyster Stew.

Tasting of rich butter and nuts with an elusive spice quality that augmented the flavor of the oysters instead of fighting with it.  I really didn't get any smokiness, but I think I understand why Black Trumpets are often referred to as the "Poor Man's Truffle".  There is something exotically intoxicating about the aroma.

I will have to make my Oyster stew this way from now on.  I'm completely hooked. (no pun intended....)

Mangia!!
~~

Fungus Among Us - Risotto alla Funghi Porcini

It's that time again..... Risotto!

I came home empty handed after hunting the elusive morel in the higher elevations around Mt. Hood, now that the snow is beginning to melt. Though I did find out, after traipsing around the side of the mountain, that I am still a bit of a "mountain goat" even at 41. Which is encouraging considering my lack of exercise over the last 7 months. I can still jump from fallen log to fallen log without loosing my balance and falling on my keester. Whew!

Sadly though, I had already whet my appetite for a morel risotto. Luckily I still had a package of dried Porcini (King Bolete) in the cupboard, so though I was denied the succulence of the Morel I was still able to indulge in the deliciousness of that Porcini have to offer. (I would go and hunt these in the Coastal Range, but I have no idea where to even begin)

This is really a quick run-down of the risotto making process, for a more in depth look at risotto do's and dont's or Black vs. White Truffles, please check out one of my previous posts - Identity Theft or The Mystic White Truffle

Risotto alla Funghi Porcini

(or Risotto alla Bolete)

4 cups Mushroom Stock
1 oz dried Porcini or 1/2 lb fresh Porcini (Boletus Edulus or the King Bolete)
1 cup Hot Water
2 Tb Olive oil
2 TB unsalted Butter
1 Shallot, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio Rice
1/2 cup Dry White Wine, room temperature (Chardonnay)
optional - 1 tsp Porcini Powder
Kosher Salt & Freshly Ground Black Pepper
3 TB Parmigiano-Reggiano (or Pecorino Romano, depending on your preference)
1 1/2 TB unsalted Butter
optional - 1 tsp White Truffle oil (Mine is REALLY strong - You may need as much as 1 TB depending on the brand)

Place the dried Porcini in a small bowl and add enough hot water to cover (about 1 cup); then allow them to soak for 20-30 minutes.

Begin heating your Mushroom stock over low heat.

When the mushrooms are hydrated, squeeze out the excess water.

Dice them fairly finely. (reconstituted porcini don't really shrink when sauteed)

Strain the left over liquid through cheese cloth into the hot mushroom stock.

Melt butter and olive oil in a saute pan.

Add the Shallot and saute until translucent.

Add the diced Porcini and cook about 1 minute longer.

Add the rice and saute for 2 minutes, or until the begins to smell a little nutty.

Pour in the White Wine and stir, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid.

Begin adding stock 1 ladle at a time, stirring until each addition of liquid has been absorbed before adding the next (this will take about 15-18 minutes) and you may not use all the stock.

After your have added 2 ladles full of stock, go ahead and add the porcini powder as well.

When the rice is al dente (or still a little firm in the center) remove from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Cover and let it sit for 3 minutes.

Just before serving, season with Salt and Pepper along with in 1 tsp of the White Truffle oil. (white truffle oil degrades quickly if subjected to high heat, so it is best to use it at the end after the risotto has cooled slightly - If you choose to use black truffle oil, you can add it about 1/2 way through the cooking process as the heat will "bloom" the flavor in the black truffle)

Dish and serve while still hot.

Mangia!!
~~

I'm Strong to the Finich, Cause I Eats Me Spinach......

Giada gets me in trouble...

Yeah, that's right... I blame this recipe on her. I was watching "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" on the Food Network, and she was talking about this Lasagne Verde. Yeah, Lasagne... so you know that grabbed my attention.

Evidently there is this restaurant down in L.A. called Angelini Osteria that serves a Green Lasagne made with a Veal & Beef Ragú and Spinach Pasta all bound together with Béchamel and Parmigiano-Reggiano. HOLY COW! As if that wasn't decadence on a plate already. Then the whole thing is topped off with Deep Fried Spinach. Awesome!!!

I HAD to have some. But not feeling like making a 15 hour trip by car, I decided to just try and make it myself. I mean, I make a Beef and Veal Ragú to serve over pasta, the funny part is that I like to serve it over Spinach fettuccine.

I have made spinach pasta many times and Lord knows I know how to make Béchamel, since it is key to my own "Lasagne alla Svizzero/Garfield" as well as Mornay sauce for Hash Pinwheels and Spinach à la Florentine. So, this is what I came up with.

OK, I left off the deep fried spinach, cause I think the lasagne is already fattening enough since I used a whole pound of Parmigiano-Reggiano when layering it. LOL

This is gonna be a Loooooooooong post. If I had not been such a masochist, I would have separated the Ragú and the Spinach Pasta into individual posts and then brought everything together in a third. But I was actually preparing all three simultaneously, so I just decided to edit all 71 photos and make one rather lengthy post to show the work flow. :)

After all, Lasagne is SERIOUS business. LOL

Lasagne Verde

Ragú di Manzo y Vitello
1/2 cup (28 g) Dried Porcini
2 cups (473 ml) Warm Water
1 lb (453 g) Boneless Beef Chuck
1 lb (453 g) Ground Veal
6 TB Unsalted Butter
3 Shallots, diced
2 Celery Ribs, diced
2 Carrots, diced
4 TB Italian Flat-Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
1/8 tsp Ground Cloves
2 TB AP Flour
3/4 cup (177 ml) Veal Stock
2/3 cup (155 ml) Sauvignon Blanc
Kosher Salt and Pepper
3 1-inch chunks of Lemon Zest, no pith

Lasagne di Spinaci (Spinach Pasta)
5 oz (141 g) Raw Spinach (though you can use frozen)
1 3/4 cup (219 g) AP Flour
1/2 cup (60 g) Semolina
1 tsp Salt
3 Large Eggs
1 TB Olive oil

Béchamel
6 TB Butter
6 TB AP Flour
pinch of Salt
3 cups Whole Milk
pinch of Nutmeg
pinch of White Pepper

For Layering
2 14.5-oz (411 g) cans of diced Fire Roasted Tomatoes (to stir into the Ragú, when it is finished)
1 TB Unsalted Butter, to rub the pan down
1 lb (453 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded

First you need to make the Ragú, cause it will have to simmer for 2 1/2 hours, so lets recap on the ingredient list for the Ragú.

1/2 cup (28 g) Dried Porcini
2 cups (473 ml) Warm Water
1 lb (453 g) Boneless Beef Chuck
1 lb (453 g) Ground Veal
6 TB Unsalted Butter
3 Shallots, diced
2 Celery Ribs, diced
2 Carrots, diced
4 TB Italian Flat-Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
1/8 tsp Ground Cloves
2 TB AP Flour
3/4 cup (177 ml) Veal Stock
2/3 cup (155 ml) Sauvignon Blanc
Kosher Salt and Pepper
3 1-inch chunks of Lemon Zest, no pith

Soak the dried porcini in 2 cups warm water for 30 minutes.

While the porcini are soaking, go ahead and prepare you vegetables...

And cut the beef into 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) chunks.

Begin heating the butter over low heat.

Remove the porcini from the liquid and squeeze them as dry as possible.

Then chop them.

Add the Shallot, Celery, Carrot and Porcini to the pan and sweat them all.

Strain the mushroom liquid through a paper towel set in a strainer (I was out of cheese cloth)

Cause you want to remove any possible sandy grit.

To the mushroom liquid, add the Veal stock

Then add the Sauvignon Blanc.

Add the Parsley to the sweating vegetables and mix thoroughly.

Add both the chopped Beef Chuck and the Ground veal to the pan.

Increase heat and saute until brown, then add the Flour and the Clove, tossing to coat the ingredients in the pan.

Pour in the Stock/Wine mixture, then season with a little kosher salt and Pepper.

Add the Strips of Lemon Zest,

then bring to a simmer.

Cover, reduce heat to the lowest possible temperature and simmer for 2 hours stirring occasionally.

After the first hour is up, remove the Lemon Zest, cause it's spent by this time.

You can also begin making the Spinach Pasta. (I went outside and roasted some Tanzanian Coffee in my Air Popper while I was waiting the first hour) LOL

5 oz (141 g) Raw Spinach (though you can use frozen)
1 3/4 cup (219 g) AP Flour
1/2 cup (60 g) Semolina
1 tsp Salt
3 Large Eggs
1 TB Olive oil

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Drop the Spinach and cook for 10 minutes, until tender.

Drain and allow to cool.

Meanwhile combine the AP Flour, Salt and Semolina in a small bowl, then dump it onto the counter, creating a well in the center.

Squeeze out as much water out of the spinach as possible.

Toss in a food processor with 1 egg and puree.

Once you have a fairly smooth puree, go ahead and add the remaining 2 eggs and the olive oil;

then puree again until nice and smooth.

Pour the Spinach puree into the well.

Begin stirring with your fingers, gradually, until eventually.....

you will have a soft dough.

Begin kneading the pasta to incorporate the remaining flour,

Until a smooth elastic dough is formed.

Wrap in plastic wrap and let set for 30 minutes or longer.

If the Ragú is at the 2 hour mark, you can remove the lid and let more moisture evaporate until it is fairly thick. About another 30-45 minutes.

While the dough is resting, make the Béchamel.

6 TB Butter
6 TB AP Flour
pinch of Salt
3 cups Whole Milk
pinch of Nutmeg
pinch of White Pepper

Melt butter in a saucepan, then add the flour.

Whisk until the roux is bubbly.

While whisking constantly, add the milk to the roux.

Cook until the Béchamel is thick and bubbly.

Remove from the heat and add the Nutmeg and White Pepper.

Cover the Béchamel on the surface so it doesn't crust, then continue with the pasta.

Remove the Ragú from the heat and stir in the fire roasted tomatoes,

then set the Ragú aside to cool slightly.

Divide the pasta into 4 pieces.

Working with 1 piece at a time,

Wrap the other three in plastic.

Dust the pasta ball with a little flour.

Dust the roller as well.

Roll the first piece through the rollers, on the widest setting.

Fold it over and run it through again... Repeat this a couple of times to knead it well.

Continue rolling the pasta through the rollers, decreasing the width of the rollers each time,

until you have 1 long sheet. (I usually go to level 4 on the Kitchen Aid rollers for lasagne)

Cut the sheet to fit a 13x9 pan sprinkle with flour to keep them from sticking together, and cover with plastic while continuing with the remaining pasta.

Bringing it all together.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Butter your 13x9 lasagne pan. (the first commandment "Thou shalt always butter thine Lasagne Pan")

Spread 1/2 cup of the Béchamel over the bottom of the pan.

Lay down a layer of Spinach Pasta.

Spoon 1/3 of the Ragú over the pasta.

Spread 1 cup of the Béchamel over the Ragú.

Top with 4 oz of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Add another layer of Spinach Pasta.

Add 1/2 of the remaining Ragú.

Top with 4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Lay down another layer of Spinach Pasta.

Spread the remaining Ragú.

Cover with 4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese.

Lay down the last layer of spinach pasta and pour the remaining 1 1/2 cups of Béchamel over the pasta.

Sprinkle with the remaining 4 oz of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Place in the oven, uncovered, and bake for 40-45 minutes.

Just until the top becomes all nice, brown and bubbly; remove from the oven and let rest about 5-10 minutes.

Cut and serve...

OK, I will admit it, the deep fried spinach would have made for an awesome presentation. But after one bite, presentation didn't matter.... I was ready to bury my face in the pan, to heck with a plate man.

Mangia!!
~~