Chickens Capering To-and-Fro - Chicken Piccata

Spring has sprung, though the rain has begun.  That means that it's time for a springy type recipe.  I can think of nothing quite so bright and sunny as the flavor of lemon mixed with the pungent green bite of capers.  So, I chose to make Piccata sauce.  It's one of the pan sauces I go cuckoo for.

Piccata, in it's simplest form, is a Lemon, Wine, Butter and Parsley pan sauce, usually served over Veal Scallopini (thinly sliced veal that has been dredged in flour and fried in butter).  The beauty of this simple sauce is the innumerable permutations it can take in the hands of any given cook at any given time.  No pigeonholing allowed.  My mom, for example, always adds 1 tsp of Honey and skips the wine.  I add Capers and the Lemon Zest to mine and use the Parsley for a garnish at the end. You can substitute Chicken Stock for the Wine, if you like.  You can replace the Lemon with Blood Orange, Ruby Grapefruit or Lime, if so inclined.  You can even chose Duck, Pork or Lamb, instead of the Veal.  It really just depends on what blows your hair back, floats your boat, turns your crank or what drum beat your are dancing to at the moment you are making it.  Sometimes I like to play it a little Loosey Goosey.

This has become evident in the popularity of "Chicken Piccata" vs the original Veal version.  While I personally do not quail at the thought of consuming Veal (no grousing), especially with the new laws regarding crating, I still find that the chicken variation is my favorite.  Someday, I would like to try this with duck and orange though; sort of a twist on Duck al'Orange.

The most difficult part of this dish is the "scalloping" or "butterflying' and pounding of the chicken breasts.  The pieces need to be fairly thin, so they cook quickly; which is the whole point of this particular dish.  In all honesty, if I had planned better, I would have purchased either Chicken "Tenders" or Chicken "Cutlets", then the hard part would have already been done for me.  (I am getting lazy)  LOL

Chicken Piccata

3-4 Chicken Breasts, about 24 oz (or Tenders or Cutlets)
4 TB AP Flour
1/2 tsp Salt
1/4 tsp Black Pepper, freshly ground
1/4 tsp Sweet Paprika
2 TB Olive Oil
3 TB Unsalted Butter
1/3 cup Dry White Wine
1/3 cup Lemon Juice
Zest of 1/2 Lemon
2 TB Capers, drained
3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
thin slices of lemon for garnish

“Scallop”, Butterfly or pound the chicken to between 1/8 – 1/4 inch thick. (I usually do a little butterfly-ing followed by a little pounding, cause one end of the breast is always thicker.)

Mix Flour with Salt, Pepper and Paprika.

Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture.

Heat the Olive Oil and Butter in heavy skillet or sauté pan.

Brown quickly on both sides giving the chicken sufficient time to cook meat thru.(about 2 minutes per side)

Move to a warm platter, garnish with lemon slices and tent to keep warm.

Pour off all but 2 TB of the fat.

Add wine and lemon juice to deglaze the pan.

Heat to a boil while scraping the bottom of the pan to release the fond.

When reduced by half add the lemon zest; stir to combine.

Add capers and stir.

There is your pan sauce.

Pour piccata sauce over chicken.

Serve immediately, with a smattering of freshly chopped Parsley, if desired.

MMMMMMMMMMMMM!! I'm happy as a Lark.

Mangia!!
~~

Leapin' Leftovers!! - Gingered Pear Chicken Salad

Chicken Chicken Chicken Chicken.... What to do with left over chicken.  It's a never ending conundrum.  For there always seems to be some left over chicken somewhere in the refrigerator.  My answer is usually Chicken Salad.  (Lots and Lots of Chicken Salad - Cause I eat a lot of Chicken)

I have never really blogged about chicken salad before, cause it's just sort of something that I do and never really think of it as particularly interesting.  I mean, it's just chicken salad after all.  It usually changes depending on what is in the cupboard or in the refrigerator.  It always contains chicken, of course, but the accouterments change all the time.  Isn't that the essence of chicken salad?

THIS time, however, I happened to have all my favorite additions available, so I figured I would go ahead and give the whole thing a whacky whirl and document the deliciousness.

My Favorite Chicken Salad

4 cups (16 oz) Chicken Breast or Thighs, cubed
3 ribs of Celery, diced
1 can of Water Chestnuts, drained and sliced
1 d'Anjou pear, diced
3 Green Onions, sliced thinly
1/2 cup Homemade Mayonnaise
1/2 cup Greek Yogurt
1 TB White Wine
3 TB Fresh Ginger, grated fine (I use a microplane zester)
1/2 tsp Dry Mustard Powder

Place the cubed chicken in the bowl.

Add the Celery, Chestnuts, Pear and Green Onions.

In a small bowl, whisk the Mayonnaise, Yogurt, Wine, Ginger and Dry Mustard together to form a smooth dressing.

Pour the ginger/mayonnaise dressing over the bowl full of Chicken and bits.

Toss until everything is well coated.

Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 2 hours.

Serve as you like, on a bed of lettuce.....

or in a sourdough roll, as a sandwich.

Mangia!!
~~

Amazing Amatrice - Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

A tantelizing pasta dish hailing from Amatrice on the border of Lazio and Abruzzo in Italy.  If you love things like Bacon Tomato hash, the Classic BLT and/or Goulash, this pasta dish is for you.

Though classically made sans onions, a Roman affectation, the key to this dish, what separates it from all the others is the use of Guanciale.  Guanciale is cured porcine cheek, as opposed to Smoked Pork Belly (American Bacon), Dry Cured Pork Shoulder (Hot Coppa), or Dry Cured unsmoked Pork Belly (Pancetta).  And while all the meats listed can be used as substituted in a pinch, they are mere shadows of the real thing.  Guanciale has a much more intense flavor so a little goes a looooooong way.  It also lends almost a "Creamy" texture to the dish. 

Sadly, I was forced to use Hot Coppa this time...  I thought I still had some Guanciale in the refrigerator.  Alas, much to my dismay and forgetfulness, I did not.  Angels wept, as did I.   But since I already set my teeth on having all'Amatriciana for dinner I went ahead and substituted.

Traditionally, at least in Amatrice, this "Sugo" (sauce) is served over Spaghetti; while in Rome, Bucatini is the preferred pasta vehicle.  Me?  I am a Spaghetti kind of guy... But, in Roman fashion, I like a little onion in mine as well. 

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

1 TB Olive oil
1/4 cup Onion, chopped
1/2 tsp Red Pepper Flake
4 oz Guanciale (though I used Hot Coppa this time)
1/2 cup White Wine
15.5 oz can Diced San Marzano Tomatoes
1/2 cup Pasta Water
1/3 cup Pecorino Romano, freshly grated

So cut the Guanciale/Hot Coppa/Pancetta/bacon into cubes.

Heat olive oil in a pan, then add the onions and saute briefly.

Sprinkle the Red Pepper flake over the Onions and saute a couple minutes more.

Add the cubed Guanciale (Hot Coppa) and saute an additional 2-3 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with White Wine.

Let the wine reduce to about 2 TB, then add the tomatoes.

Continue simmering the sauce while you drop the pasta into boiling water. (about 8 minutes)
Before draining the pasta, reserve 1/2 cup of the starchy pasta water and set aside.

Drain pasta and place in a large tossing bowl.

Add 1/4 cup of the starchy water to the sauce.

Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss briefly.

Add the Pecorino Romano and toss again.

If the sauce is a little too stiff, add the 1/2 cup pasta water to not only wetten things up, but bind everything together as well.

Serve with extra grated Pecorino Romano.

Mangia!!
~~

I'm Strong to the Finich, Cause I Eats Me Spinach......

Giada gets me in trouble...

Yeah, that's right... I blame this recipe on her. I was watching "The Best Thing I Ever Ate" on the Food Network, and she was talking about this Lasagne Verde. Yeah, Lasagne... so you know that grabbed my attention.

Evidently there is this restaurant down in L.A. called Angelini Osteria that serves a Green Lasagne made with a Veal & Beef Ragú and Spinach Pasta all bound together with Béchamel and Parmigiano-Reggiano. HOLY COW! As if that wasn't decadence on a plate already. Then the whole thing is topped off with Deep Fried Spinach. Awesome!!!

I HAD to have some. But not feeling like making a 15 hour trip by car, I decided to just try and make it myself. I mean, I make a Beef and Veal Ragú to serve over pasta, the funny part is that I like to serve it over Spinach fettuccine.

I have made spinach pasta many times and Lord knows I know how to make Béchamel, since it is key to my own "Lasagne alla Svizzero/Garfield" as well as Mornay sauce for Hash Pinwheels and Spinach à la Florentine. So, this is what I came up with.

OK, I left off the deep fried spinach, cause I think the lasagne is already fattening enough since I used a whole pound of Parmigiano-Reggiano when layering it. LOL

This is gonna be a Loooooooooong post. If I had not been such a masochist, I would have separated the Ragú and the Spinach Pasta into individual posts and then brought everything together in a third. But I was actually preparing all three simultaneously, so I just decided to edit all 71 photos and make one rather lengthy post to show the work flow. :)

After all, Lasagne is SERIOUS business. LOL

Lasagne Verde

Ragú di Manzo y Vitello
1/2 cup (28 g) Dried Porcini
2 cups (473 ml) Warm Water
1 lb (453 g) Boneless Beef Chuck
1 lb (453 g) Ground Veal
6 TB Unsalted Butter
3 Shallots, diced
2 Celery Ribs, diced
2 Carrots, diced
4 TB Italian Flat-Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
1/8 tsp Ground Cloves
2 TB AP Flour
3/4 cup (177 ml) Veal Stock
2/3 cup (155 ml) Sauvignon Blanc
Kosher Salt and Pepper
3 1-inch chunks of Lemon Zest, no pith

Lasagne di Spinaci (Spinach Pasta)
5 oz (141 g) Raw Spinach (though you can use frozen)
1 3/4 cup (219 g) AP Flour
1/2 cup (60 g) Semolina
1 tsp Salt
3 Large Eggs
1 TB Olive oil

Béchamel
6 TB Butter
6 TB AP Flour
pinch of Salt
3 cups Whole Milk
pinch of Nutmeg
pinch of White Pepper

For Layering
2 14.5-oz (411 g) cans of diced Fire Roasted Tomatoes (to stir into the Ragú, when it is finished)
1 TB Unsalted Butter, to rub the pan down
1 lb (453 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded

First you need to make the Ragú, cause it will have to simmer for 2 1/2 hours, so lets recap on the ingredient list for the Ragú.

1/2 cup (28 g) Dried Porcini
2 cups (473 ml) Warm Water
1 lb (453 g) Boneless Beef Chuck
1 lb (453 g) Ground Veal
6 TB Unsalted Butter
3 Shallots, diced
2 Celery Ribs, diced
2 Carrots, diced
4 TB Italian Flat-Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
1/8 tsp Ground Cloves
2 TB AP Flour
3/4 cup (177 ml) Veal Stock
2/3 cup (155 ml) Sauvignon Blanc
Kosher Salt and Pepper
3 1-inch chunks of Lemon Zest, no pith

Soak the dried porcini in 2 cups warm water for 30 minutes.

While the porcini are soaking, go ahead and prepare you vegetables...

And cut the beef into 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) chunks.

Begin heating the butter over low heat.

Remove the porcini from the liquid and squeeze them as dry as possible.

Then chop them.

Add the Shallot, Celery, Carrot and Porcini to the pan and sweat them all.

Strain the mushroom liquid through a paper towel set in a strainer (I was out of cheese cloth)

Cause you want to remove any possible sandy grit.

To the mushroom liquid, add the Veal stock

Then add the Sauvignon Blanc.

Add the Parsley to the sweating vegetables and mix thoroughly.

Add both the chopped Beef Chuck and the Ground veal to the pan.

Increase heat and saute until brown, then add the Flour and the Clove, tossing to coat the ingredients in the pan.

Pour in the Stock/Wine mixture, then season with a little kosher salt and Pepper.

Add the Strips of Lemon Zest,

then bring to a simmer.

Cover, reduce heat to the lowest possible temperature and simmer for 2 hours stirring occasionally.

After the first hour is up, remove the Lemon Zest, cause it's spent by this time.

You can also begin making the Spinach Pasta. (I went outside and roasted some Tanzanian Coffee in my Air Popper while I was waiting the first hour) LOL

5 oz (141 g) Raw Spinach (though you can use frozen)
1 3/4 cup (219 g) AP Flour
1/2 cup (60 g) Semolina
1 tsp Salt
3 Large Eggs
1 TB Olive oil

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.

Drop the Spinach and cook for 10 minutes, until tender.

Drain and allow to cool.

Meanwhile combine the AP Flour, Salt and Semolina in a small bowl, then dump it onto the counter, creating a well in the center.

Squeeze out as much water out of the spinach as possible.

Toss in a food processor with 1 egg and puree.

Once you have a fairly smooth puree, go ahead and add the remaining 2 eggs and the olive oil;

then puree again until nice and smooth.

Pour the Spinach puree into the well.

Begin stirring with your fingers, gradually, until eventually.....

you will have a soft dough.

Begin kneading the pasta to incorporate the remaining flour,

Until a smooth elastic dough is formed.

Wrap in plastic wrap and let set for 30 minutes or longer.

If the Ragú is at the 2 hour mark, you can remove the lid and let more moisture evaporate until it is fairly thick. About another 30-45 minutes.

While the dough is resting, make the Béchamel.

6 TB Butter
6 TB AP Flour
pinch of Salt
3 cups Whole Milk
pinch of Nutmeg
pinch of White Pepper

Melt butter in a saucepan, then add the flour.

Whisk until the roux is bubbly.

While whisking constantly, add the milk to the roux.

Cook until the Béchamel is thick and bubbly.

Remove from the heat and add the Nutmeg and White Pepper.

Cover the Béchamel on the surface so it doesn't crust, then continue with the pasta.

Remove the Ragú from the heat and stir in the fire roasted tomatoes,

then set the Ragú aside to cool slightly.

Divide the pasta into 4 pieces.

Working with 1 piece at a time,

Wrap the other three in plastic.

Dust the pasta ball with a little flour.

Dust the roller as well.

Roll the first piece through the rollers, on the widest setting.

Fold it over and run it through again... Repeat this a couple of times to knead it well.

Continue rolling the pasta through the rollers, decreasing the width of the rollers each time,

until you have 1 long sheet. (I usually go to level 4 on the Kitchen Aid rollers for lasagne)

Cut the sheet to fit a 13x9 pan sprinkle with flour to keep them from sticking together, and cover with plastic while continuing with the remaining pasta.

Bringing it all together.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Butter your 13x9 lasagne pan. (the first commandment "Thou shalt always butter thine Lasagne Pan")

Spread 1/2 cup of the Béchamel over the bottom of the pan.

Lay down a layer of Spinach Pasta.

Spoon 1/3 of the Ragú over the pasta.

Spread 1 cup of the Béchamel over the Ragú.

Top with 4 oz of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Add another layer of Spinach Pasta.

Add 1/2 of the remaining Ragú.

Top with 4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Lay down another layer of Spinach Pasta.

Spread the remaining Ragú.

Cover with 4 oz Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese.

Lay down the last layer of spinach pasta and pour the remaining 1 1/2 cups of Béchamel over the pasta.

Sprinkle with the remaining 4 oz of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Place in the oven, uncovered, and bake for 40-45 minutes.

Just until the top becomes all nice, brown and bubbly; remove from the oven and let rest about 5-10 minutes.

Cut and serve...

OK, I will admit it, the deep fried spinach would have made for an awesome presentation. But after one bite, presentation didn't matter.... I was ready to bury my face in the pan, to heck with a plate man.

Mangia!!
~~