Spring Has Finally Sprung - Risotto alla Springtime in Oregon

I probly shouldna dun it. But I did. I could not help myself..... And I'd do it again...

Normally I am a very patient individual, obsessive compulsive, but still fairly patient about it, at least on some things. I know it doesn't make a lot of sense. But this evening's meal is a perfect example...
I have been patiently waiting to get my grubby little hands on Zucchini Blossoms for years now, mainly because it reminds me of my farm boy roots in the "wilds" of Oregon. Well, my patients finally wore thin this spring, and I now have a couple of 20 inch pots on my patio, with Zucchini squash plants...

I have also been patiently waiting to acquire some morel mushrooms. Yes, the ever elusive Morel mushroom... In my humble opinion, the epitome of mushroomdom, white truffles from Alba aside, followed closely by the Bolete family (which includes porcini). Although this is up for some debate... Not because morels aren't tasty. But "mushrooms" are actually a very ancient organism, but morels didn't appear until the last ice age. They are actually a genetic mutation of yeast, not the bloom of a subterranean fungus like most mushrooms.

Mycology lesson aside, I was blessed this weekend, just by chance. I was at Whole Foods, looking for the first figs of the season, when mine eyes beheld a tiny basket full of atrociously priced Morel mushrooms... IN SoCAL... Who'd a thunk it? I broke down...
Morels are a quintessential flavor of spring, at least to an Oregonian farm boy. So I bought 5 medium sized mushrooms, which came to less than 1/4 lb (Thank GOD!) I always forget they are lighter since the stem is hollow.

This brings me to tonights meal. I had two problems....

• I had Morels and they NEEDED to be used before they went bad (they don't last long in captivity) and they had to be in a dish where their flavor would not be masked by ANYTHING.
• One of my Zucchini had started blooming, well, 1 bloom was open this morning... This meant it was time to do something with it, for once picked, they don't last long in captivity either...

So I attacked my poor zucchini plants, picking 2 of the male blossoms that were ready, and two others that really weren't, but they were close enough. None of the females are opened yet, so I hope another male opens before then so the zucchini will actually develop... Oops... (the zucchini in the picture came from Trader Joe's)

But it was worth finally giving in to my base instincts... well at least my "gatherer" instincts. After all, there isn't much game to hunt in the city, except maybe a skunk or two (yuck!).
I decided on Risotto ai Fiori di Zucca (Zucchini Blossom Risotto)... With Morels added. Yes, Yes, Yes. Absolutely delicious...!! I was SO pleased.

The light flavor of zucchini from the blossoms (cause they taste like zucchini, just fainter) and nutty yet sultry earthiness of the morels (They really are almost as incredible as white truffles). It tasted just like spring, at least to an Oregonian Farm boy. Now all I need are some Fiddleheads (and some more morels, or course) ;)

Risotto ai Fiori di Zucca e Fungi Morel

1 Shallot, minced
3 TB Olive oil
10 Morel Mushrooms, sliced into rings
1 cup Arborio or Vialone Nano
3/4 cup Prosecco (warm); Divided
2 3/4 – 3 1/2 cups Vegetable Stock; Simmering
8 Zucchini Blossoms; Thinly sliced
3 TB Grana Padano; freshly Grated
3 TB Unsalted butter
Salt and Fresh Ground Green Pepper to taste

Gently Wash the blossoms, removing the stems and pistils,

pat the blossoms dry and slice thinly and set aside.

Slice morels and mince the shallot.

Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat and sweat the shallot for 2 minutes.

Add Morel Mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes.

Remove Shallot and Morels from Pan, leaving flavored oil

Add the rice and cook, stirring, until the grains have become translucent; about 4 minutes.

Add 1/2 cup of the warm Prosecco and stir until absorbed

Begin adding the broth 1/2 cup at a time, stirring until each addition is absorbed.
When the rice is almost done, about 3 minutes remaining, stir in the zucchini blossoms and the Morel/Shallot mixture.

When rice is al dente, remove from heat, stir in the Grana Padano and Butter.

Cover and let stand for about 5 minutes.
Remove cover and stir in the remaining 1/4 cup warm Prosecco.

Season with Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Green Pepper.

Serve immediately and swoon....

Oh, in case you were wondering what happened to the little zucchini I had sliced up... I was originally going to add them, but decided to serve them on the side.

After a brief sauté in a little butter. ;)

Mangia!!
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Salmon Chanted Evening - Risotto alla Salmone Argenteo

It was a risotto kinda night tonight. This is one of my favorites. Salmon is such an elegant fish that it is perfect for a risotto. The addition of the Mascarpone makes this a "mantecato" style risotto meaning "creamy". This can also be achieved with the addition of cream but I love the flavor of mascarpone with the salmon.

I usually make this with seafood stock, but I was out and vegetable works just as well, it also makes for a less "fishy" smell while cooking. Speaking of which, if you are not a "fish" smell person you can further reduce the smell of the finished product by adding just a pinch or two of ground clove to the stock. Something in clove reduces the smell of fish. It doesn't eliminate it completely, but it does make a difference.

I am sure there is a perfectly logical explanation for this. But I have not been able to track it down. I mean as a Fancy goldfish owner, I am aware of the use of clove oil to anesthetize fish, but I have not been performing any fish surgeries lately.

Risotto Mantecato alla Salmone Argenteo

4 TB unsalted butter – Divided
1 Small Bunch of Scallions – Chopped (White parts only)
1/2 of an English hot house cucumber – peeled, seeded and chopped
1 1/2 cups Vialone Nano or Arborio
1/2 cup Room Temperature Pinot Grigio (low mineral Sauvignon Blanc, or Semi-Seco Cava)
3 – 3 1/2 cups Fish or Vegetable Stock
small pinch or two of clove (in the stock)
3/4 lb Coho (Silver) Skinless Salmon Fillet (avoid Sockeye or Keta for this, it gets to mushy)
3 TB fresh Tarragon – Chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
1 TB Mascarpone
The zest of 1/2 lemon

Bring the stock to a simmer in a small sauce pan over low heat. Cover to keep it warm.

Prepare your vegetables

Cube your salmon (this works better if done ahead of time, while still slightly frozen, then bring to room temp before using)

For this I like to assemble everything and more it over to the stove on a board.

In a medium, heavy saucepan, melt 2 TB of the butter over medium heat.

Add the scallions and cucumber, sweat until they begin to turn translucent;

then add the rice and stir to coat with the butter.

Add the room temperature wine and simmer until it has almost evaporated, about 3 minutes.

Add 3/4 cup of simmering broth and stir until almost completely absorbed, about 2 minutes.

Continue adding the broth 3/4 cup at a time, stirring frequently and allowing each addition of the broth to absorb and pull the starch out of the rice before adding the next. This should take about 10 – 12 minutes.
When you have added about 2/3 of the broth, add the cubed salmon and the tarragon.

Continue adding the rest of the broth until the rice is tender but still al dente and the mixture is creamy and the salmon is cooked, about 7 minutes.

Remove from the heat.
Stir in the remaining 2 TB of butter, Mascarpone cheese, the Lemon Zest, and the Salt and Pepper.


Plate and serve with lemon wedges, if desired...

OK, I will go ahead and share this picture. I like to play with garnishing, but sometimes what seems inspired, in theory, falls tragically short in execution.

For some strange reason, it reminds me of an 80's hair "experiment", or a jellyfish attacking the plate.

Mangia!!
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Identity Theft - Pilaf Posing as Risotto

I am sure that my BakeSpace buddies have seen parts of this before, since I wrote something very similar on one of the recipes I posted...
I love Risotto; Even the process of making it is relaxing.

I have seen many, many recipes claiming that you can make "fantastic" risotti (plural) with any long grain rice, Converted rice, and even Minute Rice of all things. I wonder if these people have ever had real risotto. They just don't know what they are missing. You can make a pretty good Pilaf with minute rice, but not a risotto.

You have at least six choices but three are the most common:

Arborio
Carnaroli
Vialone Nano

The first two are much easier to find than the third, unless you have an Italian Market near by. There are, also, Baldo, Roma and Padano, but I have never seen them at the market. These types of rice are very special.

"Why", you ask? Because they contain the 'Golden Ratio' of the two starches found in rice.

Amylose & Amylopectin.

Rice that is high in Amylose, a long straight starch molecule that does not gelatinize during cooking and crystallizes when cold, creates fluffy rice such as Basmati, Jasmine & Cal-Rose.

Rice high in Amylopectin, a multi-branched molecule that becomes sticky when released during cooking, results in a very sticky rice such as Sushi rice that is moldable and able to hold it's shape.

Somewhere in between these two extremes is the perfect balance of amylose and amylopectin that creates a medium-firm textured rice combined with an unparalleled creaminess that cannot be duplicated by any long grain or sushi rice. As stated before, Long grain rice creates sort of an overcooked "pilaf" where short grained sushi rice has a tendency to seize up when being used for risotto.

You must stir to force the grains to rub against each other, releasing the amylopectin into the broth and thus creating the silky mouth feel that good risotto is known for. That is, unless you are using Vialone Nano, which can be stirred only occasionally. Please use wooden or silicon/plastic utensils, as metal ones tend to abrade the rice grains a little too much and can damage them.

Finally, never add chilled wine or cold stock to your risotto during the cooking process. Heat your broth on a separate burner and have your wine at least at room temperature. If you add cold wine after the sauté (which is more of a sofritto), you will shock the rice, if you add cold or luke-warm broth during the remainder of the cooking process, you will start a cycle of cooling & reheating as the cold liquid comes back up to a boil. This is not good for the rice and makes it gummy and double the cooking time. Which is about 18 minutes, from the addition of the wine... You cannot shorten it to 10 minute or cook it longer than 20 minutes. That is simply how long it takes...

I usually serve risotto as a small side for 4 -6 people. Risotto is very rich and a little goes along way. But it can be used as a main dish.

Oh, one last thing. If a risotto has cream added to finish it off, then it is no longer a risotto, but a mantecato.

I performed a little experiment today to prove a point. No, this post will not actually contain a recipe per se.
Using 1/2 cup of rice and about 2 cups of stock, and 1/2 shallot; minced... I attempted to make risotto with both arborio as well as long grain rice to show the different in the end product.

Let us begin,
This is long grain rice:

This is Arborio:

They look very different, thin and long vs short and slightly rounded.

After the saute and the toasting of the rice, long grain looks like well, long grain rice.

While the Arborio now has a somewhat translucent look with a white center or "eye" (the translucent part is the amylopectin)

Once the wine and stock are added, you will notice, with stirring, that the Arborio begins to create sort of a creamy sauce,

While the long grain doesn't really do a whole lot of anything, except maybe change color.


Here is the finished products --

Long grain - Clumpy overdone and slightly gummy

Arborio (Medium grain) - Silky smooth, but still slightly toothy (al dente - yes, this term is used for risotto as well) and "Wavy" or "all'onda" as it is known in Venice... Delicious

Now Go forth and create delicious risotto!!

Mangia!!
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