The Rhode Less Traveled By - Rhode Island Clam Chowder

The scent of Autumn is in the air and that makes me happy.  I spent too many years in San Diego where there are no real seasons to speak of whatsoever.  After being deprived of seasons for so long I cannot help but wonder at the glorious splendor of changing leaves that I took for granted the first 28 years of my life.  What the heck was I thinking?   The dried fallen leaves provide a satisfying crunch when trodden upon. There is a crisp chill in the morning air that I find intoxicating, when accompanied by a good cup of coffee, while walking the dog.  Heaven.

When it comes to food....  Autumn always makes me hungry for soups, stews and chowders.  Yep, it's time to embrace some fine fall fodder.  One of my personal favorite flavors of fall is Clam Chowder.  Since Razor Clam season starts very shortly, it's the perfect Autumnal treat.  (Razor clams are another post, though)

Last year I shared my recipe for Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder, being similar to New England, but replacing the Bacon with Smoked Salmon.  It is technically my favorite style of Clam Chowder, but there is one other style that is a definite palate please-er.  No, it's not Manhattan style either...  Sadly, I do not find the combination clam and tomato to be of synergistic appeal to my taste buds.  Sorry, Clam-ato Juice.   I am speaking about the often overlooked, Rhode Island Style ....

Not many people seem to know about Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder, aside from those that actually live in Rhode Island.  Even I, having been exposed to it on several occasions, seem to forget about it in lieu of it's showier siblings, New England Style and Manhattan Style.  Maybe it's because of it's unassuming nature.  It's not flashy red and tomato laden like Manhattan Style, it's not loaded with cream and butter like New England Style.  It's sort of like "the clam chowder next door".  Humble and reserved...  Unpretentious and simple...  If it hadn't been for an email newsletter, I would have forgotten about it again, this year.

But lemme tell ya, it is unequivocally delicious.  It may be the least ostentatious of the three styles, but if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.  There is no overpowering flavor of tomato, there is not an abundance of cream and butter to coat your tongue and prevent you from tasting the clams. Oh, no. Just clear brothy goodness, loaded with bits of clam, bacon and potato accentuated with caramelized onions.

True, it should be made with Quahogs, but they are not available on the West Coast, and I am not about to try and chop up a gigantic Geoduck (goey-duck), so I simply go with minced clams in a can (besides, I need the clam juice)  

Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder

3 slices of Bacon, cut into matchsticks
3 TB Unsalted Butter
1 Onion, diced
4 Celery stalks, diced
2 cloves of Garlic, minced
4 cups Clam Juice (reserved from the canned clams, plus two 8 oz bottles of Clam juice)
2 cups Vegetable Stock (or Chicken, or Seafood)
1/2 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, diced
1/2 lb Red Potatoes, diced
1 1/2 tsp dried Thyme
1 Bay leaf
1 lb Clam meat, drained & chopped (if using canned clams, you will need five 6.5oz cans to achieve the correct "drained" weight)
Kosher Salt
1/4 - 1/2 tsp Freshly ground Black Pepper
Celery Leaves, chopped

Heat a stock pot over medium heat while cutting the Bacon into matchsticks.

Add Bacon to the hot pot and saute until crispy.

Remove the bacon from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the Butter and allow it to melt and mingle with the Bacon Fat in the stock pot.

Add the diced Onion and allow it to sweat until it begins to turn brown in color. (about 15 minutes)

Once the Onion has begun to caramelize, add the Celery, cooking an additional 5 minutes.

Add the Garlic and cook 1-2 minutes longer.

Drain the canned clams and set them aside, saving the juice (you will probably need a couple of 8oz bottles of Clam Juice as well) then add the Clam Juice along with the Vegetable Stock, Potatoes, Thyme and Bay leaf to the stock pot.

Bring to a boil,

then cover and reduce the heat, allowing the chowder to simmer for 15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the flame, and remove the Bay leaf.

Add the Minced Clam meat and the Bacon, stirring and allowing them to heat through.

Stir in the chopped Celery leaves.

Season with Kosher Salt and  Black Pepper (I use 1/2 tsp, but I am a pepper freak)
Now you are ready to serve (with oyster crackers or Saltines, if you like)

Mmmmmmmmmm! Like I said, if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.
 

Mangia!!
~~

Are Ya Achin', For Some Bacon? - Bacon Chowder

So you may be asking yourself, "Self, I wonder why Shane posted about baking a bunch of bacon?"

Well, lemme tell ya... It all started a little over a week ago when I went to visit my grandmother in hospital. (She has since been released and is doing well, in case you were wondering)  So, when I am in The Dalles, it has become traditional to stop and grab a quick bit at this wonderful restaurant called the Wind Seeker for an appetizer of delicately breaded Razor Clams (which don't seem to appear on the online menu) and a salad.   It doesn't sound like all that much food but trust me, it is.  A Razor Clam is an unusually large clam, similar to an ROUS from The Princess Bride (Rodents of Unusual Size) though obviously not an actual rodent.  I guess in this case they would be more like COUSes.  hmmmm

Anyway, the point is, that you receive 2 Razor Clams as your appetizer which amounts to puh-lentee of clam for a rather small amount of clams. ;)

This time, however, I broke with tradition.  Not only did I order my Razor Clam appetizer and a salad, but I opted for the soup of the day as well.  It was rather frigid outside and I always crave soup when it's cold.  But what really sealed the deal, was that the soup du jour was Bacon Chowder.  I mean, how brilliant is that?  That soup was pure unadulterated deliciousness to a degree I had not thought possible.  Of course it could have had something to do with having my Clams on the side.  In essence my meal was sort of like a deconstructed clam chowder.  In any case, it was bliss in a bowl.

So, I decided to have a go at Bacon Chowder myself.  Thus the need for 10 oz of Bacon baked in the oven and saving the golden elixir that is rendered Bacon fat.  Awesome!

Bacon Chowder

10 oz streaky Bacon rashers
2-3 TB Bacon Fat
1 Leek, sliced
1 Shallot, minced
2 stalks Celery, diced
1/4 cup AP Flour
4 cups Chicken Stock
4 medium White Potatoes, cubed
1 sprig of Thyme
1 Cup Heavy Cream
4 oz soft Goat Cheese such as Chevre (You could probably use Cream cheese instead)
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper
Chives to Garnish

First you need to bake your Bacon on a cooling rack set in a Jelly Roll Pan....  400 degrees for about 17-25 minutes (depending on your oven)
Pour off and reserve the golden fat and set the Bacon aside.

OK, slice Leeks, mince Shallot and dice Celery.

Place a large stock pot over medium flame and add the liquid gold that is Bacon Fat.

Once it's hot add the Celery, Shallot and Leek, sauteing until translucent and soft.

While that is happening, it's a good time to cube the potatoes (it gives them less time to turn brown)

Stir in the Flour and cook until it begins to smell nutty (about 3-4 minutes)

Add the Chicken Stock, stirring to ensure the flour doesn't get "clumpy".

Add the cubed Potatoes and a sprig of Thyme.

Bring the chowder to a boil.

Reduce the flame, partially cover and simmer for 30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

Remove the sprig of Thyme and stir in the Heavy Cream.

Then add the goat cheese and stir until it melts, then season with Salt and Pepper.

Chop the Bacon, but don't add it yet.

You will want to wait and stir in the Bacon right before serving....(you don't want the bacon to get soggy)

Ladle into a bowl and garnish with fresh Chives and more black pepper if desired

Mangia!!
~~

Chowin' on Chowder - Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder

Evidently Autumn has arrived.  Gone are the 90 degree days, for the sun is hiding behind the rain clouds and I swear the temperature dropped into the 50's...  This all means one thing.  It's time for soup.   Not just any soup. It's time for chowin' down on some chowder.

So what exactly IS a chowder?  Well, the best I can come up with is the word calderia.... Which is Latin for "a place to warm things"  This is the root that spawned words like caldera, as in volcano, and the word "cauldron" (boil, boil, toil and trouble, fire burn and cauldron bubble)   :)   In France, these handy soup cauldrons that hung from a hook over the hearth fire, were called "chaudiere".  Ah HA!  First connection... Now it get's good, cause there are a lot of fish soups/stews on the northern coast of France... So, let's hop the channel over to jolly olde England and you will find the old English word "jowter" meaning fish peddler.   Second connection... 

Now we all remember from our European history class, right?  Let's refresh.  You see, the English really loved to visit France; regularly, as a matter of fact, and usually with a fairly large army... Thus there was a lot of cross cultural interaction...  (I am assuming)  I am sure, at some point, a jowter was in Normandy and made his fish soup in a chaudiere and the rest is history...  Say it three times fast...

A jowter makes chowder in a chaudiere...  Evidently, the name stuck.

What traditionally makes chowder different from soup or stew is that the ingredients were originally layered with old biscuits or crackers, which were the thickening agent.  Granted, today most chowders are not made with layered ingredients of onions, lean pork, biscuits (sea biscuits or hardtack crackers) and fish covered in water and cooked until the bread breaks down and thickens the "chowder", most chowders simply contain flour and starch from the potatoes as thickeners ...  But though our method of preparation has changed over the years, the spirit of chowder's humble beginnings remains, as most chowders are served with copious quantities of crackers to be sprinkled on top or hidden underneath.

I am a "New England Style" person...  Not so big on the "Manhattan" version which made it's debut in the 1800's as the popularity of tomatoes increased.  But I get a little weird about tomatoes and seafood.  There is also Rhode Island Style, which is a clear broth style, similar to Delaware and Hatteras styles... Then there is the Minorcan style from Florida, which is a kicked up (datil chile laced) version of Manhattan.  Even though I am a big fan of New England style chowder which contains bacon, (awesome!) my favorite recipe is a Pacific NW affectation.  Bacon/salted pork sits on the sidelines, to be replaced by Butter and Smoked Salmon....   mmmmmm  Thus, you have the "Pacific NW Style" clam chowder.

Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder

3 TB Unsalted Butter
1/2 cup (2 oz) (56 g) Celery, fine chop
1 cup (3.5 oz) (100 g) Onion, fine chop
2 TB Shallot, minced
1 medium (9 oz) (255 g) New Potato, diced
3 TB AP Flour
a 6.5 oz (185 oz) can of Clams
2 oz (56 g) Smoked Silver Salmon, flaked
1 1/4 cup (10 oz) (295 ml) Whole Milk
1/4 cup (2 oz) (60 ml) Half and Half
2 TB Sour Cream
8 oz (235 ml) Clam Juice (in the bottle)
2 TB Flat Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
Kosher Salt (If your smoked salmon is really salty, you won't need this)
Copious amounts of Freshly Cracked Black Pepper
Finely chopped Flat Leaf Parsley for serving
Crackers and Butter for serving.

In the bottom of a medium pot, melt the Butter.

When the foaming subsides, add the Celery, Onion, Shallot and Potatoes.... and sweat until the potatoes and celery are tender.

Sprinkle the vegetables with the Flour and cook until the flour smells slightly nutty. (about 5 minutes)

Drain the Clams and reserve the juice.

Add Clams, Smoked Salmon...

Then add both the bottled Clam Juice and the reserved Clam Juice.

Stir in the Milk too.

In a small bowl, whisk Half and Half with Sour Cream,

then add this to the pot as well.

Season with copious quantities of Black Pepper and simmer gently until slightly thickened. (about 15 minutes)

Place Crackers in the bottom of the serving bowls.

Ladle the chowder over the crackers (the crackers will further thicken the chowder) or serve with "Oyster Crackers" or Saltines on the side if you like your chowder a little more loose.

Hit it again with freshly ground black pepper...

Place a small pat of butter on top and sprinkle a small amount of chopped Flat Leaf Parsley.

Kick back and watch the rain fall while exuberantly consuming your bowl of liquid warmth.

Mangia!!
~~