The Rhode Less Traveled By - Rhode Island Clam Chowder

The scent of Autumn is in the air and that makes me happy.  I spent too many years in San Diego where there are no real seasons to speak of whatsoever.  After being deprived of seasons for so long I cannot help but wonder at the glorious splendor of changing leaves that I took for granted the first 28 years of my life.  What the heck was I thinking?   The dried fallen leaves provide a satisfying crunch when trodden upon. There is a crisp chill in the morning air that I find intoxicating, when accompanied by a good cup of coffee, while walking the dog.  Heaven.

When it comes to food....  Autumn always makes me hungry for soups, stews and chowders.  Yep, it's time to embrace some fine fall fodder.  One of my personal favorite flavors of fall is Clam Chowder.  Since Razor Clam season starts very shortly, it's the perfect Autumnal treat.  (Razor clams are another post, though)

Last year I shared my recipe for Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder, being similar to New England, but replacing the Bacon with Smoked Salmon.  It is technically my favorite style of Clam Chowder, but there is one other style that is a definite palate please-er.  No, it's not Manhattan style either...  Sadly, I do not find the combination clam and tomato to be of synergistic appeal to my taste buds.  Sorry, Clam-ato Juice.   I am speaking about the often overlooked, Rhode Island Style ....

Not many people seem to know about Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder, aside from those that actually live in Rhode Island.  Even I, having been exposed to it on several occasions, seem to forget about it in lieu of it's showier siblings, New England Style and Manhattan Style.  Maybe it's because of it's unassuming nature.  It's not flashy red and tomato laden like Manhattan Style, it's not loaded with cream and butter like New England Style.  It's sort of like "the clam chowder next door".  Humble and reserved...  Unpretentious and simple...  If it hadn't been for an email newsletter, I would have forgotten about it again, this year.

But lemme tell ya, it is unequivocally delicious.  It may be the least ostentatious of the three styles, but if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.  There is no overpowering flavor of tomato, there is not an abundance of cream and butter to coat your tongue and prevent you from tasting the clams. Oh, no. Just clear brothy goodness, loaded with bits of clam, bacon and potato accentuated with caramelized onions.

True, it should be made with Quahogs, but they are not available on the West Coast, and I am not about to try and chop up a gigantic Geoduck (goey-duck), so I simply go with minced clams in a can (besides, I need the clam juice)  

Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder

3 slices of Bacon, cut into matchsticks
3 TB Unsalted Butter
1 Onion, diced
4 Celery stalks, diced
2 cloves of Garlic, minced
4 cups Clam Juice (reserved from the canned clams, plus two 8 oz bottles of Clam juice)
2 cups Vegetable Stock (or Chicken, or Seafood)
1/2 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, diced
1/2 lb Red Potatoes, diced
1 1/2 tsp dried Thyme
1 Bay leaf
1 lb Clam meat, drained & chopped (if using canned clams, you will need five 6.5oz cans to achieve the correct "drained" weight)
Kosher Salt
1/4 - 1/2 tsp Freshly ground Black Pepper
Celery Leaves, chopped

Heat a stock pot over medium heat while cutting the Bacon into matchsticks.

Add Bacon to the hot pot and saute until crispy.

Remove the bacon from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the Butter and allow it to melt and mingle with the Bacon Fat in the stock pot.

Add the diced Onion and allow it to sweat until it begins to turn brown in color. (about 15 minutes)

Once the Onion has begun to caramelize, add the Celery, cooking an additional 5 minutes.

Add the Garlic and cook 1-2 minutes longer.

Drain the canned clams and set them aside, saving the juice (you will probably need a couple of 8oz bottles of Clam Juice as well) then add the Clam Juice along with the Vegetable Stock, Potatoes, Thyme and Bay leaf to the stock pot.

Bring to a boil,

then cover and reduce the heat, allowing the chowder to simmer for 15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the flame, and remove the Bay leaf.

Add the Minced Clam meat and the Bacon, stirring and allowing them to heat through.

Stir in the chopped Celery leaves.

Season with Kosher Salt and  Black Pepper (I use 1/2 tsp, but I am a pepper freak)
Now you are ready to serve (with oyster crackers or Saltines, if you like)

Mmmmmmmmmm! Like I said, if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.
 

Mangia!!
~~

Put the Potato in the Coconut and Eat It All Up - Coconut Mash

Now that I have that "tequila drinking" song from Practical Magic running around in my head, let me explain. I am actually putting the Coconut in the Potato.

I have been toying with several ideas for Vegan food preparations over the last few months. True, most of them have never actually manifested themselves as edible dishes; for they are still merely thoughts bouncing around inside my skull - A lot of bouncing. There is a lot of room in there ya know. Yeah.

Under occupied head space aside. One of these dishes was vegan mash potatoes. I love mashed potatoes with the skins, I love light and fluffy whipped potatoes, I love their denser cousin - riced potatoes. I just love potatoes. However, creating a Vegan smashed tater dish is not without it's challenges. I have tried with Almond Milk, I have tried with Hazelnut milk, I tried with Hemp milk; I don't touch that soy stuff (ick! I do not intend on including phyto-estrogen in my diet any time soon) They turned out soggy and disgusting every time. These products are just too watery to produce anything but goo when added to the mix.

The one thing I had yet to try was Coconut milk.

Ding Ding Ding!!! We have a winner folks!

They were unbelievably awesome. If I had not made them myself, I probably would have been fooled into thinking they were just plain old mashed potatoes. Though I have to admit, when I had my second helping, I did throw on a little pat of butter and it made them even more awesome (cause I am obsessed with dairy) I know, I know - They weren't vegan anymore at that point, but hey; I am not actually a vegan anyway. They were still delicious and I will be making them again very soon.

Coconut Mash

2 1/2 lbs Red or Russet potatoes (I will use Russet next time)
1 cup Coconut Milk (it should NOT contain any sugar or weird ingredients)
1/2 tsp Red Curry Paste (yeah, I am in a curry mood lately)
3 TB Extra Virgin Olive oil (or Coconut Oil)
Kosher Salt

Simply steam your potatoes until tender (I was making Mash, so I left the skins on; I remove them when I whip or rice them)

Mix the curry paste into the coconut milk.

Then stir in the Olive oil as well.

You can either mash them with a "potato masher" or throw them in the bowl of your mixer with a paddle attachment.

Smash them until almost smooth or as smooth as you can get with the skins. (I actually prefer a few lumps in my mash - It proves that they are not reconstituted potato flakes) LOL

With the mixer still running on low speed, begin pouring in Coconut Milk/Oil/Curry mixture.

Once incorporated, add a pinch of salt, then crank up the mixer to medium high and beat until a little on the fluffy side.

Serve immediately. (with butter, if your not Vegan) ;)

Mangia!!
~~

Summer Days Drifting Away, But Oh... the Potato Salad

Nothin' tastes better, on those hot Summer days, when the grill is fired up, than the cool creaminess of potato salad. It's just summer incarnate. Sadly, yesterday was the last day of summer and, much to my chagrin, I realized that I have not made a single potato salad. How was this possible? I have absolutely NO idea. It must have something to do with Mercury being in retrograde or some other cosmic force that has kept me from realizing, and making, this harbinger of "fun in the sun". So I decide that it was time, even though it is technically Autumn now, to whip up my favorite potato salad.

I really DO love this salad... The Vons/Safeway deli use to carry something similar. In fact, when I came up with this, I was originally trying to duplicate their recipe, cause it had been discontinued. Caution.... If you don't like dill, you ain't gonna like this, cause it's gotta lotta dill in it. You might even say, it's a "dilly" of a potato salad. HAR D HAR HAR...

Dilled Potato Salad

4 lbs small Red Potatoes
3/4 Cup Scallions, sliced (although this is even better with minced Red Onion)
1 1/2 TB Olive Oil
6 TB fresh Dill, minced
1 1/2 TB Red Wine Vinegar
3/4 Cup Aioli (Sauce Aioli)
3/4 Cup Greek Yogurt
3/4 tsp Dijon Mustard
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tsp Kosher Salt
1 1/4 tsp Black Pepper

Cut potatoes into bite sized pieces and cook until tender.

Drain and chill before continuing.

Make Aioli while potatoes are chilling. (which I actually did yesterday)

Mince onion and toss with potatoes, dill and olive oil.

In a small bowl mix Vinegar, Aioli, Yogurt, Dijon, Lemon Zest, Salt, and Pepper.

Pour over potato mixture and toss.

Chill 4 hours then devour directly from the bowl with a BIG spoon. ;)

Mangia!!
~~

The Hills Are Alive, With the "Sound" of Pizzoccheri

OK, maybe Pizzoccheri Pasta doesn't really make a "sound"... but I am sure that the reason Maria was spinning around on a Alpine mountain top like an escaped mental patient was not because of any music. Oh No! I think she had just had a big heaping bowl of Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinesi and was in a food induced ecstatic state, as well as tryin to burn off a few calories.

This is a delightfully rich and hearty dish of the Italian Alps (Yes, I know Maria was Austrian... Just let me run with this) comprised of a Buckwheat pasta about the width of tagliatelle which is combined with Potato and Savoy Cabbage all layerd with Bitto cheese and drenched in Saged Browned butter... It is Alpine comfort food at its finest. Especially on a cold winter night.

I have found, though, that I have to make pizzoccheri pasta myself, cause I have never been able to find it it the store. Even the pasta shop in Little Italy doesn't make it because it is a very delicate pasta with a low gluten content and it too problematic for them to make. My other issue is that I can never find Bitto or Valtellina Casera cheese. Instead, I use a combination of Italian Fontina (Not Danish) and Grana Padano or Parmegiano-Reggiano. Italian Fontina is an Alpine cheese, and I am sure most other Alpine type cheeses would work just as well.

I guess I should quit jabbering and start making the pasta.... Cause this is all gonna take awhile (I usually make the pasta dough the night before as it will keep overnight.)

Pizzoccheri (peetz-oh-CARE-ee)

2 1/4 cups Buckwheat flour
3/4 cup AP Flour
1/2 Cup Semolina
a pinch or two of salt
4 large eggs
1 TB Olive oil
3 TB Warm water

In a medium bowl, whisk together the Buckwheat, Semolina, AP Flour and Salt.

Pour onto a large board and make a well in the center.

Add eggs, oil and water into the well and begin stirring with your fingers.

This will slowly incorporate the flour mixture and create a slurry.

Slowly the dough will begin to come together.

Knead until smooth. (If the dough is REALLY stiff add up to 1 more TB of water)

Divide dough into 4 balls.

Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Flour your board and remove a dough ball, squaring it up a little to facilitate even rolling.

and roll with a pin to about 1/16 inch thick. (I have not tried this with a pasta roller)

Trim up the edges a little for pasta to be straight.

Use a pizza cutter to cut strips 1/2 inch thick.

Lay out on a floured baking sheet, while repeating with remaining pasta dough.

Cover with plastic and refrigerate or continue below....

Pizzoccheri continues..............
OK, so NOW, that we have the proper pasta, it is time to embark upon the quest for the cheesy buckwheaty goodness that is Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinesi.

This may still be of some difficulty, as some of the remaining ingredients are also a little difficult to come by... As stated earlier, I use a combination of Fontina and Grana Padano...
Fontina causes some confusion, since there are 3 different versions available on the market. I use an Aged Italian Fontina or more appropriately referred to as Fontina Val d'Aosta.

With the dark brown rind, aged and very pungent smelling with a sweet mushroomy flavor, which is perfect with Buckwheat.(although I am sure actual Bitto would be better)

The Danish version (in the red wax)

is way to soft and creamy to stand up to this hearty dish, although that is what most of us are use to seeing in the dairy case. Look for an Alpine style cheese that is sweet but earthy and mushroomy, as a suitable replacements. Gruyere comes to mind.

Savoy cabbage can also be difficult to find, in fact, I have been looking for it for a year!! It was because I found a savoy cabbage, finally, that I decided to make this dish again.

The last time I made this dish I substituted Napa Cabbage for the Savoy. (the savoy cabbage was SO much better)

OK, now that everything is amassed... Fontina Val d'Aosta, Savoy Cabbage, Pizzoccheri, Red Potatoes, Leeks..... Lets get to cookin cause I am starving...

16 oz Pizzoccheri
12 oz Savoy or Napa Cabbage
3 medium Red potatoes (traditionally peeled, but I leave the peels on for color)
1 Leek, sliced thinly, white part only; Divided
7 Sage leaves
1/2 cup butter (1 cube)
5 oz Fontina Val d'Aosta
3 oz Grana Padano or Parmegiano-Reggiano
Salt and Pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Cube the potatoes into some cold water to keep them from browning.

Remove core from cabbage and shred with a knife.

Slice up the leeks and divide.

Salt water liberally and add cabbage, potatoes and 1/2 of the leek.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter and add the sage leaves and the remaining leek.

Shred the Fontina and Parmegiano-Reggiano (if you have Bitto, slice it really thin instead)

Watch the butter closely, you need to cook it until it is hazelnut brown (noisette) but don't burn it.

When the cabbage starts to soften, add the pizzoccheri and cook for 10 minutes. (If you are using dried pasta is till need to cook about 15 minutes so add it when the cabbage becomes bright green, but not yet softening)

When the butter is nut brown, remove from stove and move to a container you can pour from easily, like a glass measuring cup (This will stop the cooking so the butter doesn't get any more brown.
Fish out the sage leaves.
Using a skimmer, remove 1 1/2 skimmers full of the pasta/cabbage/leek/potato and let drain for a few second,

then move to a warm pasta bowl.

Add a 1/3 of the Fontina cheese and a 1/3 of Parmagiano.

Drizzle with browned Sage butter

Add another skimmer full of the pasta mixture, half of the remaining Fontina, half of the remaining Parmagiano, then drizzle of sage/leek butter.
Repeat 1 more time. (you should end up with 3 layers)
Then pour the Sage butter over the top, sprinkling the crispy leeks over the whole thing.

Mangia!!! And I DO mean MANGIA!!!
.