The Rhode Less Traveled By - Rhode Island Clam Chowder

The scent of Autumn is in the air and that makes me happy.  I spent too many years in San Diego where there are no real seasons to speak of whatsoever.  After being deprived of seasons for so long I cannot help but wonder at the glorious splendor of changing leaves that I took for granted the first 28 years of my life.  What the heck was I thinking?   The dried fallen leaves provide a satisfying crunch when trodden upon. There is a crisp chill in the morning air that I find intoxicating, when accompanied by a good cup of coffee, while walking the dog.  Heaven.

When it comes to food....  Autumn always makes me hungry for soups, stews and chowders.  Yep, it's time to embrace some fine fall fodder.  One of my personal favorite flavors of fall is Clam Chowder.  Since Razor Clam season starts very shortly, it's the perfect Autumnal treat.  (Razor clams are another post, though)

Last year I shared my recipe for Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder, being similar to New England, but replacing the Bacon with Smoked Salmon.  It is technically my favorite style of Clam Chowder, but there is one other style that is a definite palate please-er.  No, it's not Manhattan style either...  Sadly, I do not find the combination clam and tomato to be of synergistic appeal to my taste buds.  Sorry, Clam-ato Juice.   I am speaking about the often overlooked, Rhode Island Style ....

Not many people seem to know about Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder, aside from those that actually live in Rhode Island.  Even I, having been exposed to it on several occasions, seem to forget about it in lieu of it's showier siblings, New England Style and Manhattan Style.  Maybe it's because of it's unassuming nature.  It's not flashy red and tomato laden like Manhattan Style, it's not loaded with cream and butter like New England Style.  It's sort of like "the clam chowder next door".  Humble and reserved...  Unpretentious and simple...  If it hadn't been for an email newsletter, I would have forgotten about it again, this year.

But lemme tell ya, it is unequivocally delicious.  It may be the least ostentatious of the three styles, but if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.  There is no overpowering flavor of tomato, there is not an abundance of cream and butter to coat your tongue and prevent you from tasting the clams. Oh, no. Just clear brothy goodness, loaded with bits of clam, bacon and potato accentuated with caramelized onions.

True, it should be made with Quahogs, but they are not available on the West Coast, and I am not about to try and chop up a gigantic Geoduck (goey-duck), so I simply go with minced clams in a can (besides, I need the clam juice)  

Rhode Island Style Clam Chowder

3 slices of Bacon, cut into matchsticks
3 TB Unsalted Butter
1 Onion, diced
4 Celery stalks, diced
2 cloves of Garlic, minced
4 cups Clam Juice (reserved from the canned clams, plus two 8 oz bottles of Clam juice)
2 cups Vegetable Stock (or Chicken, or Seafood)
1/2 lb Yukon Gold potatoes, diced
1/2 lb Red Potatoes, diced
1 1/2 tsp dried Thyme
1 Bay leaf
1 lb Clam meat, drained & chopped (if using canned clams, you will need five 6.5oz cans to achieve the correct "drained" weight)
Kosher Salt
1/4 - 1/2 tsp Freshly ground Black Pepper
Celery Leaves, chopped

Heat a stock pot over medium heat while cutting the Bacon into matchsticks.

Add Bacon to the hot pot and saute until crispy.

Remove the bacon from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Add the Butter and allow it to melt and mingle with the Bacon Fat in the stock pot.

Add the diced Onion and allow it to sweat until it begins to turn brown in color. (about 15 minutes)

Once the Onion has begun to caramelize, add the Celery, cooking an additional 5 minutes.

Add the Garlic and cook 1-2 minutes longer.

Drain the canned clams and set them aside, saving the juice (you will probably need a couple of 8oz bottles of Clam Juice as well) then add the Clam Juice along with the Vegetable Stock, Potatoes, Thyme and Bay leaf to the stock pot.

Bring to a boil,

then cover and reduce the heat, allowing the chowder to simmer for 15 minutes.

Remove the pot from the flame, and remove the Bay leaf.

Add the Minced Clam meat and the Bacon, stirring and allowing them to heat through.

Stir in the chopped Celery leaves.

Season with Kosher Salt and  Black Pepper (I use 1/2 tsp, but I am a pepper freak)
Now you are ready to serve (with oyster crackers or Saltines, if you like)

Mmmmmmmmmm! Like I said, if you are a clam lover, then this is the Chowder for you.
 

Mangia!!
~~

Tortured Tubers - Whipped Potatoes

I don't often make "whipped" potatoes.  I am really more of a mashed potato kind of guy.  Seriously, lumpy with bits of potato skin = Awesome!  On occasion, however, I find that smooth, creamy, loaded with heavy cream and butter, whipped potatoes are just what the doctor ordered. 

The only issue with making whipped potatoes is the amount of equipment necessary to execute them properly.  With mashed potatoes, you simply boil or steam the potatoes, then get all medieval on them with a potato masher, add some butter, mash that in as well and your good to go.  With whipped potatoes, however, lumps are to be avoided like crushed velvet stretch pants.  (Faux pas!)

To avoid said lumps one really needs to employ a potato ricer as well as an electric mixer.  Sure, you can whip potatoes by hand, but the electric mixer is much faster and ensures that the potatoes are still piping hot when they reach the table.  Just be sure to leave the mixer on low speed or you may over-whip them, and they will turn to "glue".

Your choice of potato can assist you in avoiding gluey potatoes.  My personal favorite potato for whipping is a "new potato" or the Yukon gold.  The skins are extremely thin, so they are quick and easy to peel after boiling.  Thus ensuring you have HOT potatoes when you begin ricing and whipping.  For the heat of the potatoes and the cream is very important.  The heat allows the starch granules to absorb more liquid...

Whipped Potatoes

3 lbs White Potatoes
1 cup Heavy Cream
1/2 cup Whole Milk
3 cloves Garlic
2 sprigs of Thyme
6 TB Unsalted Butter
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper

To being, place the potatoes in a large pot, and cover with water.

Place over High heat and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat and allow the potatoes to simmer for 20 minutes, or until they can easily be pierced with a fork.

Meanwhile combine Heavy Cream and Whole Milk in a small saucepan with Garlic and Thyme.

Place over medium flame and bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat, cover, and let the Garlic and Thyme steep for 10 minutes.

Once the potatoes are ready, drain them into a colander.

Place your ricer over the now empty pot.

Begin peeling the potatoes..... (sometimes you can even rub the skins off with your fingers)

Place them in the river and press to break up the tubers.

Once you have riced all the potatoes,

add the butter and allow it to melt.

Turn your electric mixer to low and mix just long enough to incorporate the butter and lubricate the starches.

Remove the Thyme and Garlic from the cream and begin adding the hot cream, in a thin stream while whipping.......

Once all the cream has been absorbed, you're all done!

Season with Kosher Salt and Black Pepper.
Move to a serving bowl and top with additional butter.

Mangia!!
~~

P.S. Normally I would only make about 1/2 this much, but I have additional plans for these whipped potatoes.