Buckwheat is So Neat - Soba with Asparagus in Sesame Tamari

Since I am making another cold Soba dish, I thought it might be nice to provide a little information that spawned my infatuation with Buckwheat.

First off, buckwheat is not a "Wheat" at all; it's related to Sorrel and Rhubarb.  Which is fortuitous for anyone who is gluten intolerant.  It's what is called a pseudo-cereal, meaning that it is not a grass, like Wheat, Rye, Barley, Corn, Millet and Rice.  Buckwheat shares this illustrious "pseudo-grain" categorization with Chia, Quinoa and Amaranth as well, which are all seeds of plants, but not actual "grains" per se.   The name "Buckwheat" more than likely stems (no pun intended) from the seed's triangular shape, which closely resembles the nuts of the Beech tree. (Beech-Nut is not just a gum brand)  The Dutch word for Beech is "Beuk" and the Dutch word for Wheat is "Weite" (since the seeds were used like wheat) thus you have what is basically "Beech Wheat" when translated.

Regardless of it's linguistic origin, Beechwheat/Buckwheat is one of the worlds most perfect foods.  It contains a high level of well-balanced protein and is high in the amino acid, lysine.  In fact, it's complement of proteins are just about as high as Soy, but Buckwheat lacks the Trypsin inhibitors, that interfere with your bodies ability to digest proteins, found in un-fermented Soy products (this is not an issue with Tempeh and Miso).  Buckwheat also carries a full compliment of trace minerals like Zinc, Copper, Magnesium and Potassium, without Soy's high Phytic acid count, that blocks the uptake of these minerals.

Basically, what I am saying is that Buckwheat (whose cultivation stretches back to almost 6000 BC) can do just about anything "Soy" can do, and it does it better. (that includes Buckwheat protein isolates)  It's higher in fiber, lower in fat and full of more phytonutrients than Soy (minus the phytoestrogens).  It's also high in the bioflavinoid Rutin which has anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties as well as assisting in controlling blood pressure.

To top it all off, when Honey Bees pollinate this cover crop, the honey produced is dark, sultry and delicious over pancakes.  A total win win if you ask me.  Especially since Buckwheat likes poorly fertilized, highly acidic soils and can be planted in fallow fields to control weed growth (smother crop).  After harvest, and tilling under, the plant matter makes the phosphorus and calcium more available to the next crop.

Buckwheat is believed to have been "domesticated" around 6000 BC in south eastern China, but it quickly spread to east to Japan and west to Tibet and beyond to Europe.  Pollen has been found in both Japan and the Balkans suggesting cultivation as early as 4000 BC.  Currently, Eastern Europe and Asia are the largest producers of Buckwheat, but most regions have some form of "buckwheat" in their cuisine.  Italy has Pizzoccheri and Bléc (or Bleons), Japan has Soba (Buckwheat noodles), Korea has "Naeng Myun" (buckwheat/sweet potato vermicelli), France has the Galette di Sarrasin (Buckwheat Crepe) from Brittany which may have spawned the Colonial American Buckwheat Pancake.  Then again, maybe it was the Blini in Russia that started the Flap Jack phenomenon. There are also yeasted rolls called Hrechanyky in the Ukraine.  Mostly, however, it is groats, the hulled and toasted seeds cooked in water, stock or milk of some sort until soft.  Known as Kasha, this preparation is the traditional filling for Knishes.

So much Buckwheat potential, so little time.

Soba with Asparagus in Sesame Tamari

1/2 cup Low Salt Tamari (not Shoyu)
1/4 cup Chicken Stock or Dashi
2 tsp Honey
3 TB Sesame Seeds, toasted
1 lb Asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1 inch pieces
12 oz Soba (Buckwheat Noodles)
4 Green Onions, sliced

Combine Tamari, Chicken Stock, Honey and 1 1/2 TB Sesame seeds in a blender....

Blend until smooth (and foamy), then set aside.

In a large pot of boiling water, drop the Asparagus and blanch for 2 minutes.

Remove asparagus with a spider...

and plunge into an ice bath to stop the cooking and maintain the bright green color.

Using the same boiling water, boil the Soba for 3-4 minutes.

Drain and rinse under cold water to cool them slightly.

Place Soba in a large bowl and anoint with the sesame dressing.

Toss to coat and allow to cool to room temperature, tossing occasionally to keep the dressing dispersed.

Drain the Asparagus and blot dry.

Add the Asparagus and Green Onions to the Soba and toss again.

Serve with remaining Sesame Seeds.

Mangia!!
~~

The Hills Are Alive, With the "Sound" of Pizzoccheri

OK, maybe Pizzoccheri Pasta doesn't really make a "sound"... but I am sure that the reason Maria was spinning around on a Alpine mountain top like an escaped mental patient was not because of any music. Oh No! I think she had just had a big heaping bowl of Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinesi and was in a food induced ecstatic state, as well as tryin to burn off a few calories.

This is a delightfully rich and hearty dish of the Italian Alps (Yes, I know Maria was Austrian... Just let me run with this) comprised of a Buckwheat pasta about the width of tagliatelle which is combined with Potato and Savoy Cabbage all layerd with Bitto cheese and drenched in Saged Browned butter... It is Alpine comfort food at its finest. Especially on a cold winter night.

I have found, though, that I have to make pizzoccheri pasta myself, cause I have never been able to find it it the store. Even the pasta shop in Little Italy doesn't make it because it is a very delicate pasta with a low gluten content and it too problematic for them to make. My other issue is that I can never find Bitto or Valtellina Casera cheese. Instead, I use a combination of Italian Fontina (Not Danish) and Grana Padano or Parmegiano-Reggiano. Italian Fontina is an Alpine cheese, and I am sure most other Alpine type cheeses would work just as well.

I guess I should quit jabbering and start making the pasta.... Cause this is all gonna take awhile (I usually make the pasta dough the night before as it will keep overnight.)

Pizzoccheri (peetz-oh-CARE-ee)

2 1/4 cups Buckwheat flour
3/4 cup AP Flour
1/2 Cup Semolina
a pinch or two of salt
4 large eggs
1 TB Olive oil
3 TB Warm water

In a medium bowl, whisk together the Buckwheat, Semolina, AP Flour and Salt.

Pour onto a large board and make a well in the center.

Add eggs, oil and water into the well and begin stirring with your fingers.

This will slowly incorporate the flour mixture and create a slurry.

Slowly the dough will begin to come together.

Knead until smooth. (If the dough is REALLY stiff add up to 1 more TB of water)

Divide dough into 4 balls.

Wrap each in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Flour your board and remove a dough ball, squaring it up a little to facilitate even rolling.

and roll with a pin to about 1/16 inch thick. (I have not tried this with a pasta roller)

Trim up the edges a little for pasta to be straight.

Use a pizza cutter to cut strips 1/2 inch thick.

Lay out on a floured baking sheet, while repeating with remaining pasta dough.

Cover with plastic and refrigerate or continue below....

Pizzoccheri continues..............
OK, so NOW, that we have the proper pasta, it is time to embark upon the quest for the cheesy buckwheaty goodness that is Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinesi.

This may still be of some difficulty, as some of the remaining ingredients are also a little difficult to come by... As stated earlier, I use a combination of Fontina and Grana Padano...
Fontina causes some confusion, since there are 3 different versions available on the market. I use an Aged Italian Fontina or more appropriately referred to as Fontina Val d'Aosta.

With the dark brown rind, aged and very pungent smelling with a sweet mushroomy flavor, which is perfect with Buckwheat.(although I am sure actual Bitto would be better)

The Danish version (in the red wax)

is way to soft and creamy to stand up to this hearty dish, although that is what most of us are use to seeing in the dairy case. Look for an Alpine style cheese that is sweet but earthy and mushroomy, as a suitable replacements. Gruyere comes to mind.

Savoy cabbage can also be difficult to find, in fact, I have been looking for it for a year!! It was because I found a savoy cabbage, finally, that I decided to make this dish again.

The last time I made this dish I substituted Napa Cabbage for the Savoy. (the savoy cabbage was SO much better)

OK, now that everything is amassed... Fontina Val d'Aosta, Savoy Cabbage, Pizzoccheri, Red Potatoes, Leeks..... Lets get to cookin cause I am starving...

16 oz Pizzoccheri
12 oz Savoy or Napa Cabbage
3 medium Red potatoes (traditionally peeled, but I leave the peels on for color)
1 Leek, sliced thinly, white part only; Divided
7 Sage leaves
1/2 cup butter (1 cube)
5 oz Fontina Val d'Aosta
3 oz Grana Padano or Parmegiano-Reggiano
Salt and Pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Cube the potatoes into some cold water to keep them from browning.

Remove core from cabbage and shred with a knife.

Slice up the leeks and divide.

Salt water liberally and add cabbage, potatoes and 1/2 of the leek.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter and add the sage leaves and the remaining leek.

Shred the Fontina and Parmegiano-Reggiano (if you have Bitto, slice it really thin instead)

Watch the butter closely, you need to cook it until it is hazelnut brown (noisette) but don't burn it.

When the cabbage starts to soften, add the pizzoccheri and cook for 10 minutes. (If you are using dried pasta is till need to cook about 15 minutes so add it when the cabbage becomes bright green, but not yet softening)

When the butter is nut brown, remove from stove and move to a container you can pour from easily, like a glass measuring cup (This will stop the cooking so the butter doesn't get any more brown.
Fish out the sage leaves.
Using a skimmer, remove 1 1/2 skimmers full of the pasta/cabbage/leek/potato and let drain for a few second,

then move to a warm pasta bowl.

Add a 1/3 of the Fontina cheese and a 1/3 of Parmagiano.

Drizzle with browned Sage butter

Add another skimmer full of the pasta mixture, half of the remaining Fontina, half of the remaining Parmagiano, then drizzle of sage/leek butter.
Repeat 1 more time. (you should end up with 3 layers)
Then pour the Sage butter over the top, sprinkling the crispy leeks over the whole thing.

Mangia!!! And I DO mean MANGIA!!!
.