Fungus Among Us - Risotto alla Funghi Porcini

It's that time again..... Risotto!

I came home empty handed after hunting the elusive morel in the higher elevations around Mt. Hood, now that the snow is beginning to melt. Though I did find out, after traipsing around the side of the mountain, that I am still a bit of a "mountain goat" even at 41. Which is encouraging considering my lack of exercise over the last 7 months. I can still jump from fallen log to fallen log without loosing my balance and falling on my keester. Whew!

Sadly though, I had already whet my appetite for a morel risotto. Luckily I still had a package of dried Porcini (King Bolete) in the cupboard, so though I was denied the succulence of the Morel I was still able to indulge in the deliciousness of that Porcini have to offer. (I would go and hunt these in the Coastal Range, but I have no idea where to even begin)

This is really a quick run-down of the risotto making process, for a more in depth look at risotto do's and dont's or Black vs. White Truffles, please check out one of my previous posts - Identity Theft or The Mystic White Truffle

Risotto alla Funghi Porcini

(or Risotto alla Bolete)

4 cups Mushroom Stock
1 oz dried Porcini or 1/2 lb fresh Porcini (Boletus Edulus or the King Bolete)
1 cup Hot Water
2 Tb Olive oil
2 TB unsalted Butter
1 Shallot, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio Rice
1/2 cup Dry White Wine, room temperature (Chardonnay)
optional - 1 tsp Porcini Powder
Kosher Salt & Freshly Ground Black Pepper
3 TB Parmigiano-Reggiano (or Pecorino Romano, depending on your preference)
1 1/2 TB unsalted Butter
optional - 1 tsp White Truffle oil (Mine is REALLY strong - You may need as much as 1 TB depending on the brand)

Place the dried Porcini in a small bowl and add enough hot water to cover (about 1 cup); then allow them to soak for 20-30 minutes.

Begin heating your Mushroom stock over low heat.

When the mushrooms are hydrated, squeeze out the excess water.

Dice them fairly finely. (reconstituted porcini don't really shrink when sauteed)

Strain the left over liquid through cheese cloth into the hot mushroom stock.

Melt butter and olive oil in a saute pan.

Add the Shallot and saute until translucent.

Add the diced Porcini and cook about 1 minute longer.

Add the rice and saute for 2 minutes, or until the begins to smell a little nutty.

Pour in the White Wine and stir, allowing the rice to absorb the liquid.

Begin adding stock 1 ladle at a time, stirring until each addition of liquid has been absorbed before adding the next (this will take about 15-18 minutes) and you may not use all the stock.

After your have added 2 ladles full of stock, go ahead and add the porcini powder as well.

When the rice is al dente (or still a little firm in the center) remove from the heat and stir in the butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Cover and let it sit for 3 minutes.

Just before serving, season with Salt and Pepper along with in 1 tsp of the White Truffle oil. (white truffle oil degrades quickly if subjected to high heat, so it is best to use it at the end after the risotto has cooled slightly - If you choose to use black truffle oil, you can add it about 1/2 way through the cooking process as the heat will "bloom" the flavor in the black truffle)

Dish and serve while still hot.

Mangia!!
~~

The Mystic White Truffle of Piemonte

OK, this is my most decadent dish yet... Truffles are outrageously expensive, so when I found real truffle butter at my favorite cheese shop, Venissimo. I did a happy dance in the store, made my purchase and quickly left, having embarrassed myself.

I have actually been storing this butter.... waiting.... wanting.... needing to do something with my coveted treasure, for about 2 weeks now. Whatever it was, it needed to be perfect. After all, it's not everyday I have access to the supreme White Truffle of Alba.

I had a truffle risotto recipe that calls for black truffles, however, black truffles and white truffles are very different, and I don't mean just in color. White truffle flavor is susceptible to heat, thus it should not be cooked lest the flavor diminish. Where as a Black truffle's flavor actually improves once exposed to the heat. I am not suggesting that you go throw one on the barby or anything, but a little minor cooking will cause the flavor to bloom. So, I modified my recipe to take this into account.

Rice, I must have rice... I had Arborio, but that is a pretty standard risotto rice. I have used Carnaroli before, but tend to stick to Arborio cause it is the easiest to find. I put a call out on BakeSpace to one of the members, DajaD. She lives in Italy, so I was hoping she could help me find a direction. She suggested Carnaroli or Vialone Nano. I have never used this Vialone Nano famed rice from Venice, but I was willing to give it a whirl. Luckily, I knew where to find it. In Little Italy. The Mona Lisa Deli, across the street from Assenti's Pasta where I picked up my Sepia Linguine. Woo Hoo! I had almost everything I needed.

The final issue was stock... I had planned on using the turkey stock I have in my freezer from Thanksgiving but Duck stock was also an option. Caught in a conundrum, I realized I was going to have to consult the "ultimate source of all cooking knowledge" and called my mom. And sure enough, one thing I had not considered was brought to my attention. Yes, it's true that turkey stock has a rounder flavor than chicken, it also has a slight bitterness to it that would more than likely not bring out the truffle's full potential. Something else I had not considered was lamb stock. I had been so hung up on poultry and game birds that it completely slipped my mind that lamb and veal were an option as well. Well, I do love lamb, and truffles and lamb are a classic pairing. The fact that I had a delicious Pinot Noir waiting for me at home for dinner, helped me make the final decision. Lamb Stock it was.... Finally, I have all of my ingredients.... Whew!!!!


So without further narrative.......

White Truffled Risotto

or rather Risotto al Burro di Tartufo Bianco

2 3/4 – 3 3/4 cups Lamb Stock (Duck or Veal will work as well)

1 B Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

1 Shallot, finely chopped

1 Garlic clove, minced

1 cup Vialone Nano rice

1/4 cup Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving

2 TB White Truffle Butter, plus more for serving

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the broth to simmer.

Reduce the heat to low and keep the broth warm.

In a risotto pan over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil.

Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, not browned (about 4 to 5 minutes).

Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more.

Add the rice and stir until the grains are translucent enough to see the white eye in the center of the grain, about 3 minutes.

Add the wine and stir until absorbed, about 2 minutes. (Start your 18 minute countdown)

Begin adding the broth 1 ladle full (1/4 cup) at a time,

Wait until the broth is almost completely absorbed before adding more.

When the rice is tender but firm to the bite, after 17 to 19 minutes,

Stir in the 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, then the 2 TB white truffle butter.

Season with salt and pepper.
Cover and let stand for 3 minutes before serving.

Serve the risotto in individual bowls and top each portion with about 1/2 tsp truffle butter - or - white truffle shavings if you can. (someday)

Pass more Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese at the table.

Sit back and relax with a luscious Pinot Noir, as I did...

This wine was superb on so many levels that I don't think my review can possibly do it justice.

It was the perfect accompaniment to my Risotto, with it's earthy mushroominess. On the palate - Black currants with a hint of march violets and tobaccoed mushrooms. Scented of wild blackberries, Black Cap Raspberries, hinting at Bing Cherries and more Violets. The "feel" of the wine was like drinking silk, unlike the "velvet" of Merlot.

I was in heaven, Silk, Lamb, White Truffle, Violet, Parmigiano-Reggiano.

It cant get any better than this!!!

Mangia!!
~~