Are Ya Achin', For Some Bacon? - Bacon Chowder

So you may be asking yourself, "Self, I wonder why Shane posted about baking a bunch of bacon?"

Well, lemme tell ya... It all started a little over a week ago when I went to visit my grandmother in hospital. (She has since been released and is doing well, in case you were wondering)  So, when I am in The Dalles, it has become traditional to stop and grab a quick bit at this wonderful restaurant called the Wind Seeker for an appetizer of delicately breaded Razor Clams (which don't seem to appear on the online menu) and a salad.   It doesn't sound like all that much food but trust me, it is.  A Razor Clam is an unusually large clam, similar to an ROUS from The Princess Bride (Rodents of Unusual Size) though obviously not an actual rodent.  I guess in this case they would be more like COUSes.  hmmmm

Anyway, the point is, that you receive 2 Razor Clams as your appetizer which amounts to puh-lentee of clam for a rather small amount of clams. ;)

This time, however, I broke with tradition.  Not only did I order my Razor Clam appetizer and a salad, but I opted for the soup of the day as well.  It was rather frigid outside and I always crave soup when it's cold.  But what really sealed the deal, was that the soup du jour was Bacon Chowder.  I mean, how brilliant is that?  That soup was pure unadulterated deliciousness to a degree I had not thought possible.  Of course it could have had something to do with having my Clams on the side.  In essence my meal was sort of like a deconstructed clam chowder.  In any case, it was bliss in a bowl.

So, I decided to have a go at Bacon Chowder myself.  Thus the need for 10 oz of Bacon baked in the oven and saving the golden elixir that is rendered Bacon fat.  Awesome!

Bacon Chowder

10 oz streaky Bacon rashers
2-3 TB Bacon Fat
1 Leek, sliced
1 Shallot, minced
2 stalks Celery, diced
1/4 cup AP Flour
4 cups Chicken Stock
4 medium White Potatoes, cubed
1 sprig of Thyme
1 Cup Heavy Cream
4 oz soft Goat Cheese such as Chevre (You could probably use Cream cheese instead)
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper
Chives to Garnish

First you need to bake your Bacon on a cooling rack set in a Jelly Roll Pan....  400 degrees for about 17-25 minutes (depending on your oven)
Pour off and reserve the golden fat and set the Bacon aside.

OK, slice Leeks, mince Shallot and dice Celery.

Place a large stock pot over medium flame and add the liquid gold that is Bacon Fat.

Once it's hot add the Celery, Shallot and Leek, sauteing until translucent and soft.

While that is happening, it's a good time to cube the potatoes (it gives them less time to turn brown)

Stir in the Flour and cook until it begins to smell nutty (about 3-4 minutes)

Add the Chicken Stock, stirring to ensure the flour doesn't get "clumpy".

Add the cubed Potatoes and a sprig of Thyme.

Bring the chowder to a boil.

Reduce the flame, partially cover and simmer for 30 minutes, until the potatoes are tender.

Remove the sprig of Thyme and stir in the Heavy Cream.

Then add the goat cheese and stir until it melts, then season with Salt and Pepper.

Chop the Bacon, but don't add it yet.

You will want to wait and stir in the Bacon right before serving....(you don't want the bacon to get soggy)

Ladle into a bowl and garnish with fresh Chives and more black pepper if desired

Mangia!!
~~

Eggs'quisite Eggs - Poached Scrambled Eggs in Cheese Sauce

Every once in awhile, I read an article in a food magazine and become obsessed.  It was like that with the Fleur de Sel Caramel Chocolate Cake... and so it was with Daniel Patterson's Poached Scrambled Eggs published in Food and Wine Magazine. 

I am an egg fan to begin with... Fried, Basted, Omeletted, Coddled, Baked, Poached, Frittata'ed, Scrambled, Boiled, Belgianed, Scotched and even on Pizza... they're ALL good.  In fact, if there were no eggs, I am thoroughly convinced I would starve to death.  Oh sure, there would still be cheese, but a wise man once said, "Man cannot live by cheese alone."  Though I would definitely give it a try.    :)

Luckily this dish combines these two ingredients in a brilliant new way. Thus ensuring that I will not starve and that I will not have to attempt living on cheese alone.  I mean come on-- eggs and cheese.  Can it possibly get any better?  I think not.  OK, I will concede the point that Bacon might make it better, but as shocking as it may sound, I am a bit dubious as to whether my beloved nitrate ridden porcine products could possibly improve on the transcendental experience this dish evokes.

Usually, when I am poaching eggs, my main objective is to keep the egg intact as much as possible, thus ensuring my yolks remain all nice and runny.  I would never have conceived of poaching "scrambled" eggs.  It might be because of my chosen method of scramblization.  Normally I just crack the eggs into the pan, allow them to cook for about 30 seconds, then start stirring with a fork... in the pan.  Towards the end, I add a little Cream Cheese and some shredded Basil.  But the point is, I don't pre-scramble my eggs in a bowl before they enter the hot pan.  I have seen people on TV do it that way over and over again, but it just never sunk in. I have simply continued to scramble eggs the way my mom and grandmother do.

Now I see the advantage of scrambling ahead of time in a bowl; it affords the opportunity for some slightly unconventional egg cookery.  :)   Lemme tell ya, I think I am going to be cooking my scrambled eggs this way from now on.  Cause golly bob howdy, Vern! They are GOOD in all their permutations. 

Oh yes...  I do mean permutations.  This recipe is a great frame work for some awesome eggs.  Not a fan of Goat cheese?  Try Mascarpone and Pecorino Tartufo with Thyme.  Sheep milk cheese not your thing?  How does Cream Cheese and Gruyere with Chives grab you?  Well, I have tried all 3 and they are all decadently delicious.   

Poached Scrambled Eggs in Goat Cheese Sauce

1 cup warm Water, divided; plus more for poaching the eggs
4 oz soft fresh Goat Cheese, such as Chevre
2 oz aged hard Goat Cheese, such as Etude or goat Gouda, shredded
1 TB freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher Salt
Black Pepper
4 large Eggs
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling 
1 tsp chopped Rosemary, Chives, Tarragon or Thyme (Your Choice)

Prepare water for poaching by adding about 3-4 cups of water to a saute pan and set it over medium-high flame.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce by combining fresh goat cheese with 1/4 cup of warm water

and whisking until smooth.

In a small saucepan, bring 3/4 cup of water to a simmer.

Stir in the aged goat cheese and Parmigiano-Reggiano until melted and smooth.

Whisk in the fresh goat cheese "sauce".

Season with Salt and Pepper, then keep warm over VERY low heat.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs well.

Once the poaching liquid is simmering, use a wooden spoon to stir the water vigorously in a circular motion to create a whirlpool in the center.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and stop stirring.

Immediately pour the scrambled eggs into the center.

Cover the pot and cook for exactly 40 seconds.

Using a slotted spoon to hold the eggs back, tilt the saucepan and pour off the water into the sink.

Carefully transfer the scrambled eggs to a strainer, preferably in once piece, and let drain for 10 seconds.

Divide the eggs between 4 bowls.

Then spoon the warm cheese sauce all around.

Drizzle with Olive Oil, Salt and Pepper.

Sprinkle with fresh Rosemary, Chives, Tarragon or Thyme.

Serve immediately.

Now THAT is a big bowl of love!

Mangia!!
~~

Not So Sweet Charlotte - Aubergine & Chèvre Charlottes

I had mentioned on the Fallen Souffle Cake post that I had wanted to try Laura Calder's Aubergine and Cumin Charlottes. I am always looking for interesting ways to prepare Eggplant. After all, one can only eat Mousakka and Baba Ghanoush so many times, delicious though they may be.

These are completely, totally and unequivocally exquisite.  Though I had to serve a different salad with them.  This fresh tomato allergy is a pain in the butt sometimes.  True, I could have oven roasted the tomatoes or something and then it would have been fine, but I decided since the oven was occupied, I would go in a completely different direction.  A deliciously fresh Upland Cress Salad, simply dressed with Meyer Lemon and Olive Oil.  (ANY excuse to use a Meyer Lemon)

It created a nice counterpoint to the warm Charlotte.

Laura Calder's Aubergine and Cumin Charlottes

2 Medium Eggplants
1/4 cup Olive Oil
1 pinch Kosher Salt and Black Pepper
1 TB Cumin seeds, toasted and ground
3 Large eggs
1/4 cup milk
4 ounces fresh chèvre, crumbled

Turn on the boiler and move the rack down 1 level from the top (you don't want them too close to the element)

Line a large sheet pan with parchment (this will foster easier cleanup)

While it's heating up, slice one of the eggplants lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices. (4mm is better)

Brush both sides liberally with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper.

Broil for 10 to 15 minutes, until they become soft, but not crisp.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool, then reduce the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) and line a second sheet pan with parchment.

Cut the other eggplant in half, then brush the cut surface with Olive oil. (I used 4 smaller Ichiban Eggplants from the garden instead)

Lay the halves, cut-side down, on a baking sheet and bake about 40 minutes, or until the flesh is REALLY soft.

Remove from the oven and allow to cool until you are able to handle them without burning your fingers.
While the eggplant is baking, place the Cumin Seeds in a small skillet and set over medium-low flame.

Toast the seeds until they are fragrant, then remove from heat and place in a Mortar.

Grind the seeds with the pestal until you have a fairly fine powder.

When the baked Eggplant has cooled enough to handle, scrape the flesh from the baked aubergine halves into a bowl.

Add the toasted Cumin and stir to incorporate.

Switch to a whisk and beat in the eggs until homogeneous.

Finally, whisk in the Milk (Half & Half).

Season with salt and pepper.

Now time for assembly......

Line 6 ramekins with the aubergine slices, leaving the edges hanging over slightly. (I used 3 slices per ramekin)

Spoon in a layer of aubergine custard. (about 3 TB full)

Sprinkle with the crumbled chèvre.

Spoon a second layer of aubergine custard over the cheese.

Fold the overhanging slices back over the top to enclose the custard filling.

Set on a baking sheet and bake 20 minutes or until set. (they will "rise" in the oven, then sink a little bit)

 Cool at least 10 minutes before turning out onto a plate with upland cress salad. (below)

While you are waiting for the charlottes to cool, assemble the Upland Cress Salad.

1 bunch Upland Cress or Watercress, (remove as many stems as possible)
Zest of 1/2 Meyer Lemon
Juice of 1/2 Meyer Lemon
1 TB Olive Oil
Kosher Salt
Black pepper

Place the leaves in a bowl.

Add Lemon Zest, Lemon Juice and Olive oil.

Using your hands, gently toss the leaves until well coated.

Season with Kosher Salt and Black Pepper.

Place a small amount on each serving plate.

Serving.....

When the Charlottes are cool enough to handle, slide a small icing spatula around the edge to loosen slightly.

Tip onto the plate next to the small pile of Cress Salad.

Cut a small wedge with a butter knife and release the deliciousness.

I loved these so much, I am making them again, cause I didn't get enough....  LOL

Mangia!!
~~