Marx Foods' Shrooms for Soup Challenge - Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

It's been a while, I know.   But I am back in the saddle momentarily; primarily because I cannot resist a good challenge.  Especially if it involves Mushrooms.  I'm just sayin'.

Thus, I am taking on the latest Marx Foods Challenge, which involves creating a soup utilizing dried Mushrooms.  (Shrooms for Soup)  This could not have been a more timely challenge.  I am totally in soup mode.  It's an Autumnal favorite of mine, in all it's permutations.  OK, disclaimer time....  (you knew it was coming)  All opinions stated here are my own and no funds have been exchanged between Marx Food's and myself.....   blah blah blah blah.... OK enough of that...

The selection from Marx Foods included Porcini (Bolete), Matsutake (Pine Mushroom) and Black Trumpets (Horn of Plenty, Black Chanterelles, Poor Man's Truffle, or Trumpet of the Dead).  Not your run of the mill mushrooms, that's for sure.

I am also positive that, if you have been following this blog for any length of time, the litany of AKA's for the Black Trumpet was a dead giveaway as to which one I chose to grace my soup recipe.  

Considering the flavor of Black Trumpets, being buttery, nutty and slightly smoky, I felt they would be the perfect with Oysters.  Of course, I have been craving oyster stew for the last couple weeks anyway, so this just made it that much better.  Though Black Trumpets season is now, being late summer and fall, they are one of the best dried mushrooms available.  They hold their flavor VERY well, so fresh or dried, I don't think it really makes no difference.

Oyster stew is a little tricky.  The whole point is to keep it as simple as possible and NOT over do it with added "stuff".  It's suppose to taste like a "creamy ocean" when you are done.  It's definitely a case of "Less is More".  That includes "less" Flour (this isn't a thick chowder) and "less" Oysters.  It should not be completely stuffed with meat.  Figure about 6-8 oysters per person.  That's all.  It's really all about the flavor of the delicate sweet & buttery milk broth.  mmmmmmmmm

This "less is more" philosophy is part of the reason I use Leeks in my soup; a lot of soups actually, but in oyster stew in particular.  Leeks are a member of the onion family; an easy going member of the onion family.  Like the friend who helps you in the kitchen without taking over your party.  Their unassuming nature makes 'em the perfect fit for Oysters, lending flavor without stomping all over the Oyster's delicate flavor.  As an added bonus, Leeks are divine with mushrooms in general.

So thus, armed with Leeks, Black Trumpets, Oysters and a significant amount of Butter and Cream, I present "The Ocean in a Bowl"

Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

24-32 Fresh Oysters (or 2 10oz Jars in Small or Petite)
1/4 oz Dried Black Trumpet Mushrooms (don't over do it)
1 Leek, quartered and sliced (white and light green parts)
1 Garlic Clove, minced fine
4 TB Unsalted Butter, divided
2 TB AP Flour
~1 cup Heavy Cream
2 cups Whole Milk
A good Slug o' White Wine
Italian Parsley, chopped fine

So, first, unless you have fresh Black Trumpets, you need to soak the Black Trumpets in some warm water to rehydrate them (just enough to cover them)

While the mushrooms are soaking, shuck the oysters, reserving the liquid, then filter the liquid through a fine mesh strainer, into a 2 cup measuring receptacle, to ensure there are no small bits of shell; set both the oysters and the liquid aside for now.

After you have shucked the oysters, the mushrooms should be thoroughly hydrated, so filter the mushroom juice through a fine mesh strainer into the same 2 cup measuring devise as the Oyster juice. (I left my Trumpets whole, but you can chop them up a little, if you like)

You should have about 1 cup of Oyster/Mushroom Juices.

Add enough Heavy Cream to make 2 cups, then set aside.

Begin melting 3 TB unsalted Butter in a 2 quart pot set over Medium-Low flame. (your goin' for a "sweat", not a saute)

When melted, add the Leeks and the Garlic and sweat until they begin to soften slightly.

Add the Black Trumpets and continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes longer.

Add the Flour and stir to thoroughly coat the Black Trumpets and Leeks, then continue cooking and stirring until the flour begins to smell nutty.

Pour in the Trumpet/Oyster/Heavy Cream mixture, stirring constantly to ensure the Flour is dissolved.

Add the Whole Milk as well, stirring again to ensure everything is well mixed, then let everything just sort of hang out over Medium-Low, stirring occasionally, while you deal with the Oysters.

In an 8 inch skillet, melt the remaining 1 TB Unsalted Butter over Medium flame.

Once melted, add the Oysters.

Cook until they begin to give off liquid and they sort of "plump up" and the edges just begin to "curl". (overcooked Oysters are disgusting leathery things that are just NOT tasty)

Remove the Oysters from the skillet with a slotted spoon and immerse then into the warm Soup.

Give the soup a good slug of white wine....  And, if you want, you can filter the liquid from the skillet through a fine mesh strainer and into the soup as well.

Season the soup with Salt and Pepper.

Cover the the soup and reduce the flame to LOW....

Way low...  As low as you can possibly go. You really only need to keep it warm for about 10 minutes to give all the flavors chance to get to know one another and meld into an elixir of unfettered deliciousness that makes angels weep.  (I'm just sayin')

Serve with a sprinkle of freshly chopped Italian Parsley. (and oysters crackers, if you like)

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM  The Black Trumpets were a perfect addition to my Oyster Stew.

Tasting of rich butter and nuts with an elusive spice quality that augmented the flavor of the oysters instead of fighting with it.  I really didn't get any smokiness, but I think I understand why Black Trumpets are often referred to as the "Poor Man's Truffle".  There is something exotically intoxicating about the aroma.

I will have to make my Oyster stew this way from now on.  I'm completely hooked. (no pun intended....)

Mangia!!
~~

Bromeliad Buttressed Bavarois - Pineapple Bavarian Cream

I have mentioned this recipe in passing the last time I made a white Angel Food Cake, but I figured it was time to share the deliciousness that is Bavarian Cream (Creme Bavarois) with Pineapple.

Bavarians are very similar to Mousses but there are several important differences;  Bavarians always contain Gelatin or Isenglass (Agar), they always contain whipped cream, they are always a dessert and are usually molded.  The gelatin base is part of their claim to fame, since they have been around a lot longer than refrigeration has been.  Bavarians molds were surrounded by ice and salt, just like Ice Cream, in order to make them set up.  Thus, they were sort of the rich man's dessert, back in the day. 

Mousse, on the other hand, may or may not contain gelatin, may or may not contain whipped cream, and may or may not be sweet; sometimes they are molded, but more often they are spooned into fancy sherbet glasses.  There just aren't any hard and fast rules when it comes to Mousse.  Think of mousse as being the airy, free-spirited Dionysian dish, while the Bavarian, even though light and creamy, is much more Apollonian in it's execution.

Bavarians DO contain raw egg whites, so it is a good idea to track down pasteurized eggs even though you will be cooking the yolks.

Please, do not attempt to use fresh pineapple for this recipe.  Pineapple contains bromelain, an enzyme that breaks down proteins (ie. Gelatin)  Your Bavarian will never set if you use fresh pineapple.  Canned pineapple, on the other hand, has been pasteurized during the canning process.  The pasteurization deactivates the bromelain enzyme, making it safe for desserts containing gelatin.

Pineapple Bavarian

1 TB Unflavored Gelatin Powder
2 TB Water
3 large Eggs, separated
2 1/2 cups (20 oz) Crushed Pineapple, with juice
1 tsp Kosher Salt
1/2 cup Granulated Sugar
2 TB Lemon Juice
1 cup Heavy Cream, whipped

In a small bowl or ramekin soften the Gelatin in the Water and set aside.

Combine Egg Yolks with Salt, Sugar and Lemon Juice.

Beat until pale and foamy.

Fold in the crushed pineapple.

Place over simmering water and cook until slightly thickened.

Remove the bowl from the steam and add the softened Gelatin, torn into chunks.

Stir until it dissolves into the Pineapple mixture.

Chill until it begins to set (about 15 - 20 minutes)
Beat the Egg Whites to stiff peaks and set aside... Beat Heavy Cream to stiff peaks in a separate bowl.

Fold in the Egg Whites into the chilled pineapple mixture, followed by the Heavy Cream.

Technically, this should be spooned into an oiled mold and chilled until set.

We don't go to that trouble, simply pile the pineapple fluffiness into a bowl, cover and chill for at least 2 hours. (more like a mousse)  ;)

Then grab yourself a hunk of Angel Food Cake and spoon the Pineapple Bavarian over the top. (like a big pineapple cloud of deliciousness)

Oh yeah!

Mangia!!
~~

Burn Baby Burn, Custard Inferno! - Crème Brûlée

Crème Brûlée.......

The mere word conjures feelings of pure decadence. This is completely understandable considering the amount of fat contained in these little dishes of burnt sugar crusted heaven. But then again, this is a desert to be relished on special occasions. After all, you wouldn’t sit down and eat a whole pint of Ben and Jerry’s Chunky Monkey for dessert every night of the week now, would you? Or would you?

To be honest though, a 4 oz serving of Crème Brûlée, while not exactly healthy, really isn’t THAT bad.  I mean, it's loaded with calcium and potassium, right?

I love to make Crème Brûlée when I am having a large dinner party; in fact, I find it to be the perfect ending to most complex dinners. There is something refreshing about it’s simplicity after more complicated offerings, and most guests feel truly spoiled when being served such a dessert. I had one guest who commented that the main reason they showed up was in hopes of Crème Brûlée after dinner. Ya know, to this day, I am still not sure if I should be offended or flattered by that.

As stated earlier, Crème Brûlée is ingenious in its simplicity. It is nothing more than a combination of cream, egg yolk, and sugar, flavored with vanilla. What makes Crème Brûlée so much different from other custards is the method of combining these 4 ingredients. After all these years and many, many, many batches of burnt custard, I have found that there is just no way around it; you will need the following to properly execute this dish:

1. A Bain-Marie (Double Boiler) to bring the custard to the Crème Anglaise stage. (When a clean line remains on the back of a spoon when your finger is drawn through it. If you have ever made cold process soap, another way to equate this stage is ‘light trace’). This step removes all of the air bubbles whisked in while conditioning the yolks. If not, you will have cooked foam on top of your finished crème. It also prevents accidental overcooking of the eggs as well as speeding up the baking process.
2. Cheese cloth – No matter how good anyone is at separating eggs, you will almost always end up with a little egg white and at least part of the chalaza (The twisted albumen at each end of the yolk to hold it in place inside the shell.) Albumen coagulates at a much lower temp than the yolk will, and therefore must be strained out of the final mixture or you will have chunks.  (not sparkly)
3. A kitchen torch or a Crème Brûlée iron - Trying to caramelize sugar under the broiler yields unsatisfactory results at best, no matter what they say on the Food Network.
4. 4 - 4 oz ramekins that are only about 1 inch deep. Otherwise the cooking time will be off. And let’s face it; really good Crème Brûlée has a specific ratio of crusty caramel goodness to custard, if your ramekins are too deep it throws this ratio off. Bigger surface area means more crust.
5. A roasting pan to use as a water bath. Unlike cheesecake (Which is a custard as well) you cannot cheat and place it in a dry oven, Crème Brûlée needs the gentle 212 degree heating of a water bath or it will quickly become over done and tough.

I know all this just made this undertaking sound REALLY complicated, but I assure you, it's is fairly easy to execute.

Basic Crème Brûlée

1/2 of a Vanilla Bean (Pod and Caviar)
pinch of Kosher Salt
2 cup of Heavy Cream (Light whipping cream and half and half add too much milk protein and make the Crème Brûlée tough.)
1/3 cup Caster or Bakers sugar (It dissolves quicker)
1/2 cup of Egg Yolk, Room Temperature (Yes, I use a liquid volume measure for this, that way it doesn’t matter what size eggs I have in the fridge. 1/4 cup yolk for every cup of heavy cream seems to be the perfect ratio, giving the Crème Brûlée the silky smooth texture)

Preheat your oven to 350F degrees

Split, then scrape your Vanilla Bean, with the back of the knife, to free the inner caviar.

In a medium sauce pan heat Heavy Cream, Kosher Salt, Vanilla Caviar as well as the Pod to just below a boil (scald)

Place the bottom of the double boiler on the stove with about 1 inch of water, begin heating on medium heat.

In the top of the double boiler, but no over the heating water yet, whisk the Egg Yolks and Sugar until the sugar melts and no longer feels gritty in your fingers.

Place a tea kettle over medium heat as well, you will need it for the water bath later........

When cream has hit scald point, remove the pan from the heat, cover and let the Vanilla steep for 5-10 minutes, then fish out the Vanilla Pod.

Begin whisking yolks as you slowly pour the hot cream over them. (this will prevent you from having sweetened scrambles eggs)

Place mixture over the simmering water and cook until the Crème Anglaise stage mentioned above. Your custard should be smooth and almost bubble free.

Strain through 3 layers of cheese cloth into a vessel you can pour from, this removes ANY lumps. (I filter it into a 4 cup Pyrex measuring cup, for easy filling of the ramekins)

Fill ramekins about 3/4 full and place in a roasting pan.

Pull the rack from your oven out and place the roasting pan upon it and finish filling the ramekins almost to the top.

Push the oven rack in and fill the pan with hot water from the kettle until it comes half way up the sides of the ramekins, close the door and reduce the temperature to 325F degrees.

Bake for 15-20 minutes, the center will still be a little jiggly, that is good, if it’s not jiggly, then they are over done.

Carefully remove roasting pan from oven and quickly remove ramekins from hot water to a cooking rack. (I use tongs for this.)

Let Crème Brûlée cool to room temperature before placing in the refrigerator over night.

40 minutes before serving, remove from refrigerator and sprinkle the tops with a thin layer of plain old granulated sugar, or for a super special treat, use Demerara Sugar. (Which is actually my favorite)

With the ramekin in 1 hand and the lit kitchen torch in the other, apply the flame to the sugar, about 4 inches away, as soon as it begins to melt and run, twist the ramekin in your hand, I find this easier than moving the torch around. (I know, I am doing it on the counter, contrary to how I am saying it should be done, but in my defense, I needed one hand for the camera)

When all the tops are covered with a burnt crust, refrigerate for 30 minutes before serving, this will re-chill the custard slightly, but will not be long enough for the crust to get or turn into liquid.

Now take a spoon, and hold the ramekin up to your ear while forcefully applying your spoon to the crust, just to hear that satisfying “Crack” when the crust breaks.

Then there is the perfect spoonful, with just a small amount of the cracked caramel to accompany the unctuousness of the cream custard.

Sadly, it all seems to end WAY too soon.

Mangia!!
~~