Marx Foods' Shrooms for Soup Challenge - Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

It's been a while, I know.   But I am back in the saddle momentarily; primarily because I cannot resist a good challenge.  Especially if it involves Mushrooms.  I'm just sayin'.

Thus, I am taking on the latest Marx Foods Challenge, which involves creating a soup utilizing dried Mushrooms.  (Shrooms for Soup)  This could not have been a more timely challenge.  I am totally in soup mode.  It's an Autumnal favorite of mine, in all it's permutations.  OK, disclaimer time....  (you knew it was coming)  All opinions stated here are my own and no funds have been exchanged between Marx Food's and myself.....   blah blah blah blah.... OK enough of that...

The selection from Marx Foods included Porcini (Bolete), Matsutake (Pine Mushroom) and Black Trumpets (Horn of Plenty, Black Chanterelles, Poor Man's Truffle, or Trumpet of the Dead).  Not your run of the mill mushrooms, that's for sure.

I am also positive that, if you have been following this blog for any length of time, the litany of AKA's for the Black Trumpet was a dead giveaway as to which one I chose to grace my soup recipe.  

Considering the flavor of Black Trumpets, being buttery, nutty and slightly smoky, I felt they would be the perfect with Oysters.  Of course, I have been craving oyster stew for the last couple weeks anyway, so this just made it that much better.  Though Black Trumpets season is now, being late summer and fall, they are one of the best dried mushrooms available.  They hold their flavor VERY well, so fresh or dried, I don't think it really makes no difference.

Oyster stew is a little tricky.  The whole point is to keep it as simple as possible and NOT over do it with added "stuff".  It's suppose to taste like a "creamy ocean" when you are done.  It's definitely a case of "Less is More".  That includes "less" Flour (this isn't a thick chowder) and "less" Oysters.  It should not be completely stuffed with meat.  Figure about 6-8 oysters per person.  That's all.  It's really all about the flavor of the delicate sweet & buttery milk broth.  mmmmmmmmm

This "less is more" philosophy is part of the reason I use Leeks in my soup; a lot of soups actually, but in oyster stew in particular.  Leeks are a member of the onion family; an easy going member of the onion family.  Like the friend who helps you in the kitchen without taking over your party.  Their unassuming nature makes 'em the perfect fit for Oysters, lending flavor without stomping all over the Oyster's delicate flavor.  As an added bonus, Leeks are divine with mushrooms in general.

So thus, armed with Leeks, Black Trumpets, Oysters and a significant amount of Butter and Cream, I present "The Ocean in a Bowl"

Black Trumpet Oyster Stew

24-32 Fresh Oysters (or 2 10oz Jars in Small or Petite)
1/4 oz Dried Black Trumpet Mushrooms (don't over do it)
1 Leek, quartered and sliced (white and light green parts)
1 Garlic Clove, minced fine
4 TB Unsalted Butter, divided
2 TB AP Flour
~1 cup Heavy Cream
2 cups Whole Milk
A good Slug o' White Wine
Italian Parsley, chopped fine

So, first, unless you have fresh Black Trumpets, you need to soak the Black Trumpets in some warm water to rehydrate them (just enough to cover them)

While the mushrooms are soaking, shuck the oysters, reserving the liquid, then filter the liquid through a fine mesh strainer, into a 2 cup measuring receptacle, to ensure there are no small bits of shell; set both the oysters and the liquid aside for now.

After you have shucked the oysters, the mushrooms should be thoroughly hydrated, so filter the mushroom juice through a fine mesh strainer into the same 2 cup measuring devise as the Oyster juice. (I left my Trumpets whole, but you can chop them up a little, if you like)

You should have about 1 cup of Oyster/Mushroom Juices.

Add enough Heavy Cream to make 2 cups, then set aside.

Begin melting 3 TB unsalted Butter in a 2 quart pot set over Medium-Low flame. (your goin' for a "sweat", not a saute)

When melted, add the Leeks and the Garlic and sweat until they begin to soften slightly.

Add the Black Trumpets and continue cooking for about 4-5 minutes longer.

Add the Flour and stir to thoroughly coat the Black Trumpets and Leeks, then continue cooking and stirring until the flour begins to smell nutty.

Pour in the Trumpet/Oyster/Heavy Cream mixture, stirring constantly to ensure the Flour is dissolved.

Add the Whole Milk as well, stirring again to ensure everything is well mixed, then let everything just sort of hang out over Medium-Low, stirring occasionally, while you deal with the Oysters.

In an 8 inch skillet, melt the remaining 1 TB Unsalted Butter over Medium flame.

Once melted, add the Oysters.

Cook until they begin to give off liquid and they sort of "plump up" and the edges just begin to "curl". (overcooked Oysters are disgusting leathery things that are just NOT tasty)

Remove the Oysters from the skillet with a slotted spoon and immerse then into the warm Soup.

Give the soup a good slug of white wine....  And, if you want, you can filter the liquid from the skillet through a fine mesh strainer and into the soup as well.

Season the soup with Salt and Pepper.

Cover the the soup and reduce the flame to LOW....

Way low...  As low as you can possibly go. You really only need to keep it warm for about 10 minutes to give all the flavors chance to get to know one another and meld into an elixir of unfettered deliciousness that makes angels weep.  (I'm just sayin')

Serve with a sprinkle of freshly chopped Italian Parsley. (and oysters crackers, if you like)

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMM  The Black Trumpets were a perfect addition to my Oyster Stew.

Tasting of rich butter and nuts with an elusive spice quality that augmented the flavor of the oysters instead of fighting with it.  I really didn't get any smokiness, but I think I understand why Black Trumpets are often referred to as the "Poor Man's Truffle".  There is something exotically intoxicating about the aroma.

I will have to make my Oyster stew this way from now on.  I'm completely hooked. (no pun intended....)

Mangia!!
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Me, Myself and Indian Cuisine - White Mushrooms (Kumbh)

So, the other day I was thinking to Myself, "Self, you never cook anything from India".  Normally, and I use that term loosely, when "I" think to "Myself", Myself ends up traveling down some strange culinary rabbit hole leaving unsuspecting "Me" sitting in the aftermath thinking, "Whahappened?"   Yes, when "I" think to "Myself" it begins to worry "Me".

But Me being Me, the more inclusive of the three and spurred by some desperate need for "Self" preservation, as well as being more detail oriented than "I" or "Myself", piped in with "Ya know, for all the array of spices and herbs that We DO have, We are always missing something to execute a decent Masala."

After which "I" thought back, quite simply and succinctly, "Chicken".

"Don't bait Me"

"I'm just sayin'... Though "I" could really go for some Mushrooms, Myself"

And there it was....   White Button Mushrooms cooked in Spicy Butter and Milk.  Simple, elegant, and not requiring a full pantry full of the harder to find ingredients like Black Cumin, Nigella Seed, White Cardamom, Fenugreek and Curry leaves (yep, Curry is an herb too, not just a spice mix) or Mustard oil.  All We really needed was the contents already contained within the panty..... Cumin, Coriander and a little White Pepper.

Honestly, this dish tastes better with Cremini, Baby Bella, Champignon, Italian Brown, Brown Button, Chestnut mushrooms or whatever the current marketing BUZZ word is calling them right now.  They are all the same.  The original button mushroom (Agaricus Bisporus, mentioned above by the litany of names) mutated in 1926 while being cultivated in Pennsylvania, resulting in a "White" mushroom.  At that point in time, white foods, like white bread, were considered to be more healthy because they were "Pure".  (sigh) As if.  Anyway, all the white button mushrooms on the market are decedents of that original Pennsylvania mutation.  Me, Myself and I really prefer the flavor and texture of the Brown ones though.  The white ones have a rubbery texture and seem to be, almost, slimy on the outside after being cooked.  That's just Me.

White Button Mushrooms (Kumbh)

1 lb White Button Mushrooms (Cremini "Brown Button" are better)
4 oz Unsalted Butter (definitely NOT low fat)
3/4 cup Onion, minced
1 tsp Garlic, crushed
1 tsp Coriander, ground
1 tsp Cumin, ground
2 TB AP Flour
1 cup Whole Milk
Salt to Taste
2 tsp White Pepper

Remove the stems from your Mushrooms and save them for another purpose.

Set the Mushroom caps aside.

Place a large skillet over medium flame and allow the butter to melt.

Add the Onion and Garlic and Sweat for 5 minutes, or until softened.

Add the Coriander and Cumin, cooking until fragrant.

Remove the skillet from the flame and add the Flour, stirring to combine.

Return to the flame and cook until the color darkens slightly.

Slowly stir in the milk.

Once thoroughly combined, add the mushroom caps.

Cook for 5-7 minutes, stir every once in awhile... (The mushrooms should begin releasing liquid to mix in with the sauce)

Remove from the heat and season with Salt and White Pepper.

Serve, over Brown Basmati rice.

Now if you will excuse Me, Myself and I need to have another chat.  :)

Mangia!!
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Wordless Wednesday - Hungarian Inspired Mushroom Soup

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Chowin' on Chowder - Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder

Evidently Autumn has arrived.  Gone are the 90 degree days, for the sun is hiding behind the rain clouds and I swear the temperature dropped into the 50's...  This all means one thing.  It's time for soup.   Not just any soup. It's time for chowin' down on some chowder.

So what exactly IS a chowder?  Well, the best I can come up with is the word calderia.... Which is Latin for "a place to warm things"  This is the root that spawned words like caldera, as in volcano, and the word "cauldron" (boil, boil, toil and trouble, fire burn and cauldron bubble)   :)   In France, these handy soup cauldrons that hung from a hook over the hearth fire, were called "chaudiere".  Ah HA!  First connection... Now it get's good, cause there are a lot of fish soups/stews on the northern coast of France... So, let's hop the channel over to jolly olde England and you will find the old English word "jowter" meaning fish peddler.   Second connection... 

Now we all remember from our European history class, right?  Let's refresh.  You see, the English really loved to visit France; regularly, as a matter of fact, and usually with a fairly large army... Thus there was a lot of cross cultural interaction...  (I am assuming)  I am sure, at some point, a jowter was in Normandy and made his fish soup in a chaudiere and the rest is history...  Say it three times fast...

A jowter makes chowder in a chaudiere...  Evidently, the name stuck.

What traditionally makes chowder different from soup or stew is that the ingredients were originally layered with old biscuits or crackers, which were the thickening agent.  Granted, today most chowders are not made with layered ingredients of onions, lean pork, biscuits (sea biscuits or hardtack crackers) and fish covered in water and cooked until the bread breaks down and thickens the "chowder", most chowders simply contain flour and starch from the potatoes as thickeners ...  But though our method of preparation has changed over the years, the spirit of chowder's humble beginnings remains, as most chowders are served with copious quantities of crackers to be sprinkled on top or hidden underneath.

I am a "New England Style" person...  Not so big on the "Manhattan" version which made it's debut in the 1800's as the popularity of tomatoes increased.  But I get a little weird about tomatoes and seafood.  There is also Rhode Island Style, which is a clear broth style, similar to Delaware and Hatteras styles... Then there is the Minorcan style from Florida, which is a kicked up (datil chile laced) version of Manhattan.  Even though I am a big fan of New England style chowder which contains bacon, (awesome!) my favorite recipe is a Pacific NW affectation.  Bacon/salted pork sits on the sidelines, to be replaced by Butter and Smoked Salmon....   mmmmmm  Thus, you have the "Pacific NW Style" clam chowder.

Pacific NW Style Clam Chowder

3 TB Unsalted Butter
1/2 cup (2 oz) (56 g) Celery, fine chop
1 cup (3.5 oz) (100 g) Onion, fine chop
2 TB Shallot, minced
1 medium (9 oz) (255 g) New Potato, diced
3 TB AP Flour
a 6.5 oz (185 oz) can of Clams
2 oz (56 g) Smoked Silver Salmon, flaked
1 1/4 cup (10 oz) (295 ml) Whole Milk
1/4 cup (2 oz) (60 ml) Half and Half
2 TB Sour Cream
8 oz (235 ml) Clam Juice (in the bottle)
2 TB Flat Leaf Parsley, finely chopped
Kosher Salt (If your smoked salmon is really salty, you won't need this)
Copious amounts of Freshly Cracked Black Pepper
Finely chopped Flat Leaf Parsley for serving
Crackers and Butter for serving.

In the bottom of a medium pot, melt the Butter.

When the foaming subsides, add the Celery, Onion, Shallot and Potatoes.... and sweat until the potatoes and celery are tender.

Sprinkle the vegetables with the Flour and cook until the flour smells slightly nutty. (about 5 minutes)

Drain the Clams and reserve the juice.

Add Clams, Smoked Salmon...

Then add both the bottled Clam Juice and the reserved Clam Juice.

Stir in the Milk too.

In a small bowl, whisk Half and Half with Sour Cream,

then add this to the pot as well.

Season with copious quantities of Black Pepper and simmer gently until slightly thickened. (about 15 minutes)

Place Crackers in the bottom of the serving bowls.

Ladle the chowder over the crackers (the crackers will further thicken the chowder) or serve with "Oyster Crackers" or Saltines on the side if you like your chowder a little more loose.

Hit it again with freshly ground black pepper...

Place a small pat of butter on top and sprinkle a small amount of chopped Flat Leaf Parsley.

Kick back and watch the rain fall while exuberantly consuming your bowl of liquid warmth.

Mangia!!
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