Tomatoes Get the Brandy Blues - Brandied Gorgonzola Tomato Soup

Don't you just hate it when someone goes to a restaurant and has something really awesome; then, when they are telling you about it, they just automatically ASSUME that since you cook a lot of different things, you will just magically know how to make it?   I mean come on!   Just because I talk like Alton Brown sometimes and have read The Joy Of Cooking, Mastering the Art of French Cooking and The Silver Spoon from cover to cover like novels, does not mean that I am capable of mind melding with every chef on the planet and simply downloading selected information from their brains.  (Although THAT would be really really really cool)

Such was the story of my mother and her Blue Cheese/Brandy Tomato Soup that she consumed at the 42nd Street Cafe in Seaview, WA (which is just south of Longbeach, WA). 

Normally I make tomato soup with my slow cooked tomato sauce and some cream or half & half.  Pretty simple really.  So I started asking questions.  I mean, obviously it had Blue Cheese & Brandy in it, but that really doesn't help much... There are at least 10 Blue Cheeses that I can name and they all taste different.  So I started asking questions like.....

"Does it have cream in it?"  She didn't know.
"Is it chunky or smooth?"  She said it was smooth (OK, so it IS pureed)
"Did you taste Basil in it?"  She didn't remember.
"Was it Brandy or Cognac?"  She didn't know.
"Did they mention what Blue Cheese was in it?"  She said no.
"Did you ask them for the recipe?"  She didn't, because she was sure that I would be able to figure it out.

(sigh)  While I am deeply touched that she thinks that highly of my culinary skills, considering that we still argue about the deliciousness of polenta and the intrinsic food value of gnocchi (cause she hates both of them), I knew right off the bat that I was not going to be able to pass off my normal tomato soup by just adding some blue cheese and brandy to it.  Thus, I have been pondering this recipe for about 2 months now.

Enter Michael Symon.....

I was watching a rerun of CHEW, thanks to my SIL for pointing me at that show, and they were covering soups.  Michael was making this Blue Cheese/Sriracha Tomato Soup.

Brain Flash!
After the smoke cleared and the scent of of Ozone dissipated, I decided to use his soup as a base... OK, all I really did was substitute the Sriracha with Red Pepper Paste, change the Blue Cheese from Buttermilk Blue to Gorgonzola Dolce and finish the soup with some Brandy.  Oh, and I dropped the Oregano...  I thought Dill would work better with my changes.

Bingo!!  It worked...  In fact, mom was licking the bottom of the pot.  Woo hoo!  So thank you Mr. Symon for pointing me in the right direction.

Brandied Gorgonzola Tomato Soup

2 TB olive oil
6 oz (170g) Red Onion, chopped (that's about 1 medium red onion)
Kosher Salt
4 cloves Garlic, sliced
1 28-ounce (794g) can San Marzano tomatoes, with their juice
1 1/2 cups (12 oz) (355ml) Chicken Stock
3/4 cup (6 oz) (177ml) Heavy Cream
1 TB Red Pepper Concentrate (The stuff in the tube by Amore)
1 small sprig of Dill Weed (you need to fish it out later)
1/2 cup (2.25 oz) (65g) Gorgonzola Dolce (creamy Gorg - AKA: Dolcelatte), plus more for serving
2 TB Brandy (oh yeah, baby!)
Crème Fraîche for serving

Begin by heating the oil in a stock pot set over medium flame.

When hot, add the Red Onion and Kosher Salt, sweat for about 2 minutes. (The salt will force the water in the onions to release)

Add the Garlic and sweat 1 - 2 minutes longer.

Add the San Marzano Tomatoes, breaking them up a little with a spoon.

Then add the Chicken Stock as well.

Bring the mixture to a simmer.

Add the Heavy Cream and the Red Pepper Concentrate along with the sprig of Dill.

Return the mixture to a low simmer, cover and continue simmering for 40 minutes.

OK, Food Processor, Schmood Processor....  If you have a stick blender, your good to go.

Remove the Dill weed, add the Gorgonzola Dolce and beat the whole mixture into submission with the stick blender.

Run the soup through a strainer into a clean pot.

(this will remove the tomato seeds, of which there really aren't many, cause San Marzanos are almost seedless)

Return the soup to a low flame and stir in the Brandy.

Serve with a dollop of Crème Fraîche and a sprinkle of crumbled Gorgonzola.

Honestly, I think this is the best tomato soup I have ever had!  It's amazing!  If you're not a blue cheese fan, worry not.  You don't really "taste" blue cheese... There just isn't enough in the soup.  But somehow, some way, if gives more of a back bone to the sweetness of the San Marzano tomatoes... Then again, maybe I just got too much brandy in the soup.  ;)

If you'll excuse me now, I think I need to go have another bowl...

Now THIS is what I call Mmmm Mmmmm Good!

Mangia!!
~~

Amazing Amatrice - Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

A tantelizing pasta dish hailing from Amatrice on the border of Lazio and Abruzzo in Italy.  If you love things like Bacon Tomato hash, the Classic BLT and/or Goulash, this pasta dish is for you.

Though classically made sans onions, a Roman affectation, the key to this dish, what separates it from all the others is the use of Guanciale.  Guanciale is cured porcine cheek, as opposed to Smoked Pork Belly (American Bacon), Dry Cured Pork Shoulder (Hot Coppa), or Dry Cured unsmoked Pork Belly (Pancetta).  And while all the meats listed can be used as substituted in a pinch, they are mere shadows of the real thing.  Guanciale has a much more intense flavor so a little goes a looooooong way.  It also lends almost a "Creamy" texture to the dish. 

Sadly, I was forced to use Hot Coppa this time...  I thought I still had some Guanciale in the refrigerator.  Alas, much to my dismay and forgetfulness, I did not.  Angels wept, as did I.   But since I already set my teeth on having all'Amatriciana for dinner I went ahead and substituted.

Traditionally, at least in Amatrice, this "Sugo" (sauce) is served over Spaghetti; while in Rome, Bucatini is the preferred pasta vehicle.  Me?  I am a Spaghetti kind of guy... But, in Roman fashion, I like a little onion in mine as well. 

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana

1 TB Olive oil
1/4 cup Onion, chopped
1/2 tsp Red Pepper Flake
4 oz Guanciale (though I used Hot Coppa this time)
1/2 cup White Wine
15.5 oz can Diced San Marzano Tomatoes
1/2 cup Pasta Water
1/3 cup Pecorino Romano, freshly grated

So cut the Guanciale/Hot Coppa/Pancetta/bacon into cubes.

Heat olive oil in a pan, then add the onions and saute briefly.

Sprinkle the Red Pepper flake over the Onions and saute a couple minutes more.

Add the cubed Guanciale (Hot Coppa) and saute an additional 2-3 minutes.

Deglaze the pan with White Wine.

Let the wine reduce to about 2 TB, then add the tomatoes.

Continue simmering the sauce while you drop the pasta into boiling water. (about 8 minutes)
Before draining the pasta, reserve 1/2 cup of the starchy pasta water and set aside.

Drain pasta and place in a large tossing bowl.

Add 1/4 cup of the starchy water to the sauce.

Pour the sauce over the pasta and toss briefly.

Add the Pecorino Romano and toss again.

If the sauce is a little too stiff, add the 1/2 cup pasta water to not only wetten things up, but bind everything together as well.

Serve with extra grated Pecorino Romano.

Mangia!!
~~

Pyroclastic Flavor - Campanelle alla Vesuviana

Campania is a land of geological turmoil, or at least it's past has been.... Hmmmm, kind of like the Pacific Northwest, maybe that is why I can relate to the food so well. You see, Pliny the Younger give us the first account of a pyroclastic flow from the Bay of Naples as he watched this geological event which was similar to what happened with Mt. St. Helens back in 1980. This particular region of Italy is home to Naples (bringers of Pizza Margherita) as well as the illustrious Mozzarella di Bufala. Not to mention the ever so delicious San Marzano Tomato. Now I promise I am not going to "gush" about them like I usually do... You know, about how they make Pizza Margherita a work of art, or cause my Slow-Cooked Tomato Sauce sing in your mouth... Blah blah blah blah.... :)

What I will do is talk about the countryside in which they are grown... For is is because of the Vesuvius eruption of 79 CE, the geological even of which Pliney wrote of, which destroyed Pompeii as well as Herculaneum and half of Naples, that we have these effervescent tomatoes, today. That particular eruption dumped anywhere from 8 to 66 feet of ash for 80 miles in all directions. Most importantly, at least for tomatoes, was that this included what is now the province of Salerno in south coastal Campania. The high volcanic content of the soil is largly responsible for producing such astounding tomatoes.

A testament to the old adage - When life gives you a pyroclastic flow, make tomato sauce. Um, yeah, or something like that, anyway.

As seen across the Bay of Naples, April 26 1872 eruption.

Sadly, in my quest for one of my favorite pasta dishes (Yeah I know, I have a lot of those, don't I?) I was sorely lacking two of the key ingredients; San Marzanos and Mozzarella di Bufala. This was primarily due to poor planning on my part. OK, and laziness, since I did not want to drive all the way to New Seasons out in Damascus for tomatoes or down to Trader Joe's on 39th and Woodstock for Mozzarella (The TJ's on 82nd keeps telling me it's out of season even though the 39th street store keeps getting it in; stupid heads)

So I raided the cupboard and found Fire Roasted Tomatoes, which worked surprisingly well, I must say.

I also had cow milk mozzarella in Perlini form (that's really small or pearl sized)

So armed with these two ingredients I embarked upon a pasta dish from the foot of Mt. Vesuvio. Oh, and No ash, pumice or basalt was used, came near, or was injured in the making of this dish. ;)

Campanelle alla Vesuviana

1/2 cup (118 ml) Extra Virgin Olive oil
2 - 3 Cloves Garlic; minced fine
1 - 1 1/2 tsp Red Pepper Flake (I like a little fire going on)
29 oz (822 g) (2-14.5 oz cans) Diced Fire Roasted Tomatoes (but preferably San Marzanos)
Kosher Salt
1 TB Dried Basil (or 3 TB Fresh, chopped)
1 TB Dried Parsley (or 3 TB Fresh, chopped)
1 tsp Dried Mint (or 1 TB Fresh, chopped)
8 oz (226g) Fresh Mozzarella; perlini (preferably Mozzarella di Bufala, diced)
1 oz (28 g) Pecorino Romano, grated
1 lb Campanelle or Fusilli or even Radiatori

Heat olive oil in a sauce pan over medium heat and add finely minced garlic and red pepper flake, cooking until the garlic just begins to brown.

Add Tomatoes and a pinch or two of kosher salt and reduce heat to a simmer.

Add Basil, Parsley and Mint; simmer for about 15 minutes.

Cook pasta according to package directions....
Drain the Mozzarella and set aside.

Drain pasta, reserving 1/4 cup of the liquid, just in case.

Place pasta in a warm bowl, then add the tomato mixture ....

and toss it well.....

Add the Mozzarella perlini and the Pecorino Romano.

Toss again...

Serve with extra Romano...

Though I like mine plain.... Delectable!

I love the way the mozzarella begins to melt and get all kinds of gooey, releasing it's liquid to bring a milky flavor to the dish that cools the heat of the red pepper flake and takes the edge off the acidity of the tomato. It's awesome!

Mangia!!
~~

Time to Get Sauced - Slow Cooked Tomato Sauce

I promised, several months ago, back on the Okee Dokee Gnocchi post that I would post about this when I was cleaning out my freezer before I moved back to Portland Oregon. Then Thanksgiving happened, and Volcano cakes for Birthdays, and Christmas, then New Years and then another Birthday as well as my own, and there was the birthday party for my nephews happening yesterday. Whew!!! I haven't been this busy in ages!

So, though it has taken me a lot longer than I originally anticipated, true to my word, this is how I make my Basic Tomato Sauce. I am not gonna lie to ya, it takes pretty much the whole day to make. Mainly because after it cooks for 6 hours you have to get it cooled off as quick as possible, though an ice bath helps, and then get it into freezer bags for storage. Oh yes, it makes a lot. I figure that if I am gonna spend all day cookin sauce I might as well make a ton of it, cause it takes about the same amount of time. Then I have sauce ready at all times. Just say "NO" to jarred sauce!

I found this recipe ages ago on the internet at "http://www.cusick.com/jeff/Tsauce.html" but the last time I checked the site was no longer up and running. I have made a few changes over the years, but the basic recipe is still the same. One thing I do need to point out is that I use canned tomatoes. The reason is simple, unless you grew them yourself, are buying them from a local farm or receiving them from your next door neighbor chances are that those bright rosy red tomatoes in the grocery store aren't even ripe!?!?! Yep, most tomatoes have been gassed with ethylene which causes them to "ripen" (read: turn red) while they are still green. Canned tomatoes are picked from the vine and canned when they are truly ripe. So I use them to achieve a full tomato flavor.

About the tomatoes, cause this is going to determine how good your sauce is. In Italy they grow this wonderful tomato called the San Marzano, on the slopes of Mt. Vesuvius. This is the quintessential Italian paste tomato.

We in America have tried to duplicate or model other tomatoes after it, this is how the "Roma" came into being. While the Roma tomato is quite delicious, it's flavor is inferior, being a little on the acidic side. If I had more disposable income, I would probably buy ALL San Marzanos to make my sauce, but alas, purchasing imported Italian tomatoes can be a little cost prohibitive. SO, I mix half San Marzanos with half Romas. I have noticed some recipes using sugar in the sauce to balance the acidity out. I feel better using the chopped carrot to do this, but it's a personally preference.

Oh, and the celery allows me to reduce the amount of salt I add. Both of these add backbone to the sauce as well... So it's ALL kinds of good.

Remember, if you and buying San Marzano tomatoes to read your labels carefully. There are fakes out there who cleverly "name" their product "San Marzano". These tend to be Roma tomatoes or some other form of a plum tomato. San Marzanos are not grown commercially here in the United States, or if they are, they aren't available on the West Coast. Read the label carefully and look for the "D.O.P".

If it's missing, then it's probably faked. The Romas will more than likely be marketed as either "Roma" or "Italian Plum Tomatoes" so it wont require as much label reading.

If you decide to use ALL Roma tomatoes for this sauce, double the carrot and double the celery and it will help to compensate for the lack of San Marzanos. Not completely, mind you, cause their flavor is hard to duplicate, but it will help.

Another ingredient that I love to use is the Cipollini onions and a shallot.

Cipolline onions are flattened and usually fairly small, about 1-2 inches across. They are also a little hard to get cut up, as well as difficult to find, but they are delicious.

The funny part is that Cipollini are not even onions, they are the bulb of the grape hyacinth. But whether they are onions or not they still lend a sweet, almost caramel flavor to the sauce.

This sauce is designed as a base for other sauces. You can add other ingredients to it and create Vodka Sauce, Arrabbiata Sauce, Mock Balognese, or simple cook up some meatballs, reduce some Sangiovese and add it to the warmed sauce, then toss it all together with fresh basil. (Which is what I am doing tonight)

Because of this, I use a stick blender to smooth it out, but if you are a chunky sauce lover, you can simply mash it at the beginning with the potato masher and leave it at that.

OK, now that I have finished my brain dump (I think I covered everything) and everyone is thoroughly bored, let's begin.

Slow Cooked Tomato Sauce

10 TB extra virgin olive oil (I use a Sicilian oil from Trader Joe's)
1 Large Carrot, chopped fine or *grated* (Use 2 if you are using 8 cans or Roma tomatoes)
1 Celery Rib, chopped fine (Use 2 ribs if using 8 cans of Romas) Chervil is better, if you can find it.
1 White Onion, chopped
2 Red Cipolline "Onion", minced
2 Yellow Cipollini "Onion", minced
1 Shallot, minced
8 large cloves garlic- finely chopped
2 -3 inches of anchovy paste or, 1-2 anchovies, smashed (use 4-6 inches or 2-4 anchovies if using 8 cans or Romas)
1 TB Fresh Italian Flat-Leaf Parsley, minced
1 TB Dried Oregano
2 1/2 tsp whole Fennel seed (crushed in a mortar & pestle)
1 TB Dried Marjoram
1 1/2 tsp Dried Summer Savory
2 tsp Dried Thyme
1 tsp Dried Rosemary
1/2 tsp Red Pepper Flake
4 (28 oz) cans peeled San Marzano Tomatoes
4 (28 oz) cans peeled "Plum" Tomatoes (usually labeled as "Italian" or Roma) Make sure they are Basil free or they may end up bitter.
1/2 tsp Fine Grind Black Pepper
1 TB Basil, chopped (For Later)
Salt to taste (usually 1/2 - 1 tsp.)

Add Olive oil to a LARGE Stock pot over medium heat. (I use a 22 quart pot so it doesn't "spit" all over the counter)
Add White Onion, Carrot, Celery and sweat until clear. (This is a Soffritto; the Italian word for a French Mirepoix)

Add Cipollini onions and sweat a little longer, about 2 minutes

The add the Shallot & Garlic, sweat until fragrant, do not let the garlic brown.

Remove from heat and add Anchovy Paste and All herbs EXCEPT the Basil, while oil is warm. This releases the fat solubles out of the herbs.

Don't forget you have to crush the fennel lightly with a mortar and pestle before adding....

Stir until fragrant.

Open your cans of tomatoes;

dump them unceremoniously into your stock pot;

grab your potato masher and go to town.
Return stock pot to Low heat, or use a diffuser on medium heat. Your sauce will scorch VERY easily at this point, and that would be a VERY bad thing.
Bring to a simmer uncovered, the water absolutely has to be able to evaporate and condense your sauce.
Simmer for 5 to 6 hours stirring occasionally (Not constantly, but you should not leave the house for any length of time)

I like to smooth out my base sauce, since I can always add fresh or diced tomatoes later.
Consequently at about the 5 hour mark I attack the sauce with a stick blender to make it smoother;

This is when I add the basil, because basil does not respond well to long cooking times becoming bitter if over-cooked.

When sauce is sufficiently thick and concentrated (this happens after it has been reduced by about 1/3), begin salting, don’t be afraid if is seems a little over salted, you will be putting this on pasta, which will absorb any excess salt.

Remove from heat and let cool to room temp in an ice bath.

Scoop into Zip loc bags

and freeze, lying flat on a baking sheet, until they are solid and can stack on their own.
I usually get about ten 2 1/2 cup servings, which is perfect for 12 oz of pasta. (unless you are adding a bunch of stuff to it at which point 16 oz of pasta may be better)

Basically meaning I reduced the original amount of tomatoes, plus all the other stuff which is about 9 quart... to about 6 quarts. So about a 1/3 reduction to thicken the sauce properly.

Mangia!!
~~