Hungary for Mushrooms - Mushroom Stouprikash

I am still in major soup mode.... Though I am not so sure if this really qualifies as soup or not.  This is really more of a stew; then again, it's loaded with Sweet Hungarian Paprika, so it's kind of like a Paprikash (though it doesn't contain tomato)

Hmmmmmmm   Mushroom Stouprikash?  Maybe?  (Hey, if Rachel Ray can make up words like "stoup", then so can I.)

This is one of those "perfect" autumnal dishes.  Hearty, but not too heavy.  Excellent on a day that is not so much chilly or cold, but definitely on the cool side of the thermometer.   I think it's the Paprika.

There really is something special about Hungarian paprika.  It has warming qualities, whether Sweet or Hot, that go beyond the mere Scoville scale.  Maybe it's the rich color it imparts or the bright but earthy flavor.  Either way, it is a boon to any dish you decide to apply it to, whether sprinkled on Devilled Eggs or copiously spooned into Goulash.

Hungarian varieties of Paprika are many and varied, but don't let that freak you out.  Here in the US, there are only 2 that are commonly available in the marketplace.

• Special quality (Különleges) the mildest, very sweet with a deep bright red color. 
• Delicate (Csípősmentes Csemege) – color from light to dark red, a mild paprika with a rich flavor. 
• Exquisite Delicate (Csemegepaprika) – similar to Delicate, but more pungent. 
• Pungent Exquisite Delicate (Csípős Csemege, Pikáns) - an even more pungent version of Delicate. 
• Rose (Rózsa) – pale red in color with strong aroma and mild pungency. 
• Noble Sweet (Édesnemes) – most commonly exported paprika; bright red and slightly pungent.
• Half-Sweet (Félédes) – A blend of mild and pungent paprikas; medium pungency. 
• Strong (Erős) – light brown in color, the hottest paprika.

Of the 8 varieties of Hungarian Paprika, the two that are usually marketed are the Édesnemes (sold as "Sweet" Paprika) and the Erős (sold as "Hot" Paprika).  Do not confuse Hungarian Paprika with Spanish Paprika (or pimenton). Most, if not all, of the bottles on the "spice rack" at your local mega-mart that state, generically, "Paprika" are Spanish style; though they may have been grown anywhere from Spain to Serbia and even California.  Hungary is very proud, and well it should be, of its Paprika prowess.  Thus, Hungarian Paprika will be clearly marked as such. (look for the big square red can)

Don't get me wrong...  I am not saying that Spanish Paprika (pimenton) is nasty tasting, lower quality or anything like that.  I love the oak wood smoked variety.  Spanish Paprika just has a different flavor profile which includes some slightly bitter notes.  As a result, it does not fit the bill all the time, but it makes AWESOME Paella.
 

Mushroom Stouprikash

2 TB unsalted Butter
2 yellow Onions, diced
2 lbs Button Mushrooms, sliced (I prefer the brown crimini)
1 tsp Kosher Salt
1 TB fresh Dill, chopped (or 1 tsp dried)
1 TB Sweet Hungarian Paprika (not Spanish, it's a little more bitter)
2 tsp Lemon Juice
3 TB AP Flour
2 cups Mushroom or Vegetable Stock
1 cup Whole Milk
1/4 tsp freshly ground Black Pepper
1/2 cup Sour Cream or Smenta

Melt Butter in a large stock pot set over medium flame.

Add diced Onion and saute for 5 minutes.

Add the Mushrooms, Salt, Dill and Paprika, stirring well.

Cook an additional 15 minutes to ensure the Onion is cooked through and the mushrooms have begun to give up their liquid.

Yes, I really mean it this time, for the liquid they give up will mix with the Paprika and form the unctuous "sauce" in the bottom of the pot.  YUM!

Add Lemon Juice and stir to combine.
Gradually sprinkle the flour over the cooking mushrooms, stirring constantly to prevent flour lumps.

Continue cooking for an additional 5 minutes to remove the "raw" flour flavor.

Add the Vegetable (or Mushroom) stock.

Cover the pot and simmer for 10 more minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add Milk and Black Pepper, stirring to combine.

Whisk in the Sour Cream and reduce the flame to "low" to ensure the sour cream doesn't curdle.

Serve with a Dill Garnish.

Mangia!!
~~

Mastering the Minutiae - Minestrone alla Genovese

Minestrone.  Is there any soup so quintessentially Italian?  I think not. Is there any soup that is more satisfying?  I think not.  Is there any soup so open to interpretation?  I think not.   WOW, that's a lot of "not" thinking.  :)

Minestrone is often misunderstood.  It's not so much an actual recipe as it is a STYLE of soup.  If you have ever watched Rachel Ray, you will be familiar with her "Stoup" concept.  Whether you choose to view it as a thick soup or a brothy stew... that pretty much describes Minestrone.  Thicker than soup but not quite a stew.  Which is why it seems to stick to your ribs so well in the cold winter months.

Though Minestrone is more of a "whatever you have lying around" kind of dish, there are still two main varieties.  Milan & Genoa.  Minestrone alla Milanese is what most Americans are familiar with, made popular by such brands as Progresso.  It typically contains at least a little meat, tomatoes and pasta, along with a plethora of other ingredients that are completely at the discretion of the chef.  There is, however, another manifestation of Minestrone that is my personal favorite; the meatless version from Genoa in northern Italy.

Not that I am a Vegetarian or Vegan, by any stretch of the imagination; I just find the combination of multiple greens, mushrooms, potato, pasta and white beans to be more to my liking.  Granted, if you so desired you could add tomatoes or any other various ingredients to the melee.  But there is ONE rule with Minestrone from Genoa... It must, Must, MUST be finished off with a couple hefty tablespoons of that ever so evocative of Genovese ingredients..... Pesto.

Minestrone alla Genovese

1 oz dried Porcini (this will be about 3 oz (85 g) after soaking)
8 cups Water, divided
3.5 oz (100g) Leek, sliced
4 oz (113g) Swiss Chard, chopped
4 oz (113g) Spinach, chopped
2 tsp Kosher Salt
10 oz (285g) Zucchini, peeled, quartered and sliced  (about 2 small)
8 oz (226g) Japanese Eggplant, peeled and cubed (about 2 small)
10 oz (285g) White Potato, diced (about 2 small)
2 TB Olive Oil
4  oz (113g) (1 cup) Ditalini or other small Pasta (I used Gemelli this time, cause it was in the cupboard)
12 oz (340g) (2 cups) Cannellini Beans, drained and rinsed
2 -3 TB Pesto Genovese
optional - Pecorino Romano

Soak the Porcini in 2 cups of warm water for 30 minutes.

Remove the mushrooms and reserve the liquid.

Rinse the Porcini under cold running water to remove any grit.

Dry them with paper towels.

Chop them and set them aside.

Strain the liquid through cheese cloth or a coffee filter.

Pour the "Mushroom Stock" into a 6 quart Stock pot.

Add the remaining 6 cups of water to the pot along with the Kosher Salt and apply a medium flame.

Remove the stems from the chard, and chop the remaining leaves.

Chop the Spinach.

Slice the Leeks

Peel, quarter and slice the Zucchini.

Peel, and cube the Eggplant.

Dice the Potato.

Drain and rinse the Cannellini Beans

When the salted Porcini Water comes to a boil, add the Porcini, Leeks, Chard, Spinach, Zucchini, Eggplant and Potato.

Drizzle the whole thing with Olive oil.

Reduce the flame to low and simmer the soup for 1 hour, uncovered.

Add the Pasta and simmer an additional 10 minutes.

Add the Cannellini Beans and simmer 5 minutes longer.

Just before serving, stir in the Pesto.

Adjust seasoning with Black Pepper and additional Kosher Salt if needed.
Serve as is, or with a sprinkle of freshly grated Pecorino Romano.

Mangia!!
~~

Legume Lovin' - Lentil Stew

I have been a little preoccupied, of late, with my nose buried in Tech manuals again.   When this happens I go for extremely quick meals.  That means LOTS o' pasta dishes.  Most of which I have already shared here. (though I have one coming up for those that love fish)

I have really been craving soups however, since it's been so cold blustery.  Yes, the East wind has been howling out of the Columbia Gorge again.  Then the rain decided to get into the act and now it's cold, windy AND wet.  Luckily though, the temperature is several degrees above freezing, so there is no ice anywhere.  Just cold and wet seeping into bones.  Thus the need for soup.

As much as I love soup, it always seems to give me pause.  Soup always seems deceptively easy to throw together, but it usually involved A LOT of chopping, dicing, mincing, slicing and/or julienning (which isn't really a word, but you get the idea)   It's true.  I made a Minestrone alla Genovese about 2 weeks ago... (Yep, there is another type of minestrone besides the one from Milan)  Lord have mercy!!  I swear it took over an hour to chop, slice and dice everything.  Luckily nothing had to be julienne or I may still be in the kitchen prepping for the soup.  Oh, it was delicious and I will be blogging about it later, cause it's a must share recipe. (Time is of the essence and this recipe has fewer pictures... and fewer ingredients)

So, in the interest of quick and easy prepped soups, I present my mom's recipe for Lentil stew. OK, it's not really my mom's recipe per se.... She got it from Horst Mager of the Rheinlander Restaurant on Sandy Blvd in Portland back in the 70's.  Granted it's not exactly the same anymore... (The original recipe) Mom made some tweaks to it over the years, and I have tweaked it myself a couple times.  But it's rich, hearty and delicious which makes me happy when it's cold and damp outside.  As a bonus, the prep time is pretty fast when compared to other soups.

Oh, and this is Pseudo-Vegan as well... Replace the Bacon with 2 more TB Olive oil, substitute Mushroom stock for the Beef stock and your good to go.

Lentil Stew

2 TB Olive Oil
4 oz (113 g) Bacon, diced (or an additional 2 TB Olive oil)
5 oz (142g) (1 cup) Onion, diced
4.5 oz (130g) (1 cup) Carrot, diced
7 oz (200g) (1 1/2 cups) Celery, diced
4.5 oz (130g) (1 cup) AP Flour
3 1/2 quarts (3.3 liters) (112oz) Beef Stock (or Mushroom stock)
7 oz (200g) (1 cup) brown Lentils
5.5 oz (160g) (1 cup) Red Potato, diced

Seasonings...... I always measure these out first and set them aside.

2 tsp Marjoram
1 1/2 tsp Kosher Salt
1 1/2 tsp Thyme
1 tsp Savory
1 tsp Coriander, ground
3/4 tsp Dill Weed
1/2 tsp Cardamom, ground
1/4 tsp Smoked Paprika
a couple grates of Nutmeg
Zest of 1/2 a Lemon

Heat olive oil in a 6 quart stock pot set over medium flame.

Add the Bacon and saute until crispy and the fat has rendered out.

Remove from the stock pot with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel.

Add the Onion, Carrot and Celery to the hot fat; sauteing until translucent.

Add the AP flour and stir the "Mirepoix" to assure all the veggies are evenly coated.

Toss in all the seasonings and stir.

Once the flour begins to smell nutty go ahead and add all the Stock, stirring constantly to ensure the flour dissolves into the stock.

Bring to a boil, while stirring, then add the Lentils, Potato and the Bacon.

Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer for 2 hours; stirring occasionally.

Season with Black Pepper (and more salt if needed)

Serve in a big bowl.  In fact I would say that the size of the bowl should directly correlate to the severity of blustery-ness occurring outside your home...   Basically the nastier the weather, the bigger the bowl.  ;)

It pretty much looks like a simple vegetable soup, but trust me, looks are deceiving.  LOL

Mangia!!
~~