Бефстроганов - Beef "à la" Stroganov

I have to admit that this is not really a Stroganov recipe anymore.  Which is probably a good thing, because I think my "Russian" in the title is wrong. 

My entire family has tweaked the original recipe so many times over the years that it has definitely become "Americanized".  Then again, I guess it can't really be helped on some level.  It started with the lack of Smetana.

Smetana is an Eastern European soured cream product that has the same properties as Crème Fraîche.  It doesn't curdle under heat like Yogurt and "Sour Cream" do.  It's also not quite as thick as Sour Cream, however, it is more sour than Crème Fraîche, thus the conundrum.  So to produce the same effect, we originally mixed Sour Cream with Heavy Cream and Lemon Juice to produce a "smetana type" product.  Then Crème Fraîche suddenly became available on a regular basis and a shift occurred.  NOW we mix Crème Fraîche with a little Sour Cream and Lemon Juice.  This works significantly better than the old way.  (But in a pinch your can still mix 8 oz of Sour Cream with 2 oz of Heavy Cream and 1 tsp Lemon Juice)

Over the years we have dropped the Dijon Mustard from the recipe...  Which is technically what makes it NOT Stroganov, being by definition "Beef in Mustard and Sour Cream".  Though occasionally I throw it in anyway.  In this family it's all about the wine, sour cream and homemade egg noodles... LOL

That is the one thing that has never changed over the years.... Homemade Egg Noodles.

While I realize that it's more traditional to serve Stroganov ("Stroganoff" in French) with crispy shoestring potatoes, I really enjoy it over noodles.  It's a comfort food thing.  Which is why I was so diligently making Egg Noodles yesterday to fill the freezer shelf.  So I am always prepared for....

Beef à la Stroganoff

1 lb Chuck or Sirloin Steak, cubed in 1 1/2 pieces
1 1/2 TB AP Flour
1 TB Olive Oil
4 TB Unsalted Butter, divided
1 White Onion, chopped
8 oz Crimini Mushrooms, sliced
1 tsp Tomato Paste
2 tsp Dijon Mustard
4 oz Pinot Noir
2 tsp Lemon Juice
8 oz Crème Fraîche      - or -   8 oz Sour Cream
2 oz cup Sour Cream    - or -   2 oz Heavy Cream
Kosher Salt
Fresh Cracked Black Pepper
12 oz Fresh Egg Noodles tossed with Unsalted Butter

Place cubed Beef in a storage bag with the AP Flour, seal and toss well.

Heat 2 TB Olive oil in a saute pan, then add the flour coated Beef and saute until well browned.

Remove from pan and set aside.

Melt 2 TB Unsalted Butter in the saute pan.

When Hot, add the Onions and saute until soft.

Remove from the pan and set aside.

Melt remaining 2 TB Butter in the saute pan.

When hot, add the Mushrooms and saute until browned.

Remove from the pan and set aside as well.

Deglaze the pan with 4 oz of Pinot Noir, lower the heat to Medium-Low and let this reduce by 1/3 (about 2 minutes).

Add the Tomato Paste and Dijon Mustard stirring to combine.

In a small bowl combine the Lemon Juice, Crème Fraîche and Sour Cream (or the Lemon Juice, Sour Cream and Heavy Cream)

Remove the saute pan from the heat and stir in the Crème Fraîche/Sour Cream mixture.

Add the Beef, Onions and Mushrooms back to the pan and continue simmering for 5 minutes.

While the Stroganov is simmering, drop the Fresh Egg Noodles into a pot of salted boiling water for 3 minutes...

Drain well and toss with a little bit of Unsalted Butter. (about 1 TB)

Season with Kosher Salt and Black Pepper, then serve over, or tossed with, Homemade Egg Noodles (or better yet, with crispy Shoe-string potatoes on the side)

Mangia!!
~~

No Nonsense Nosh with Nigella - Mushroom and Lemon Linguine Laced with Thyme

I have a secret love affair with Nigella Lawson. (I guess after that confession, it's not so secret anymore)   ;)

I just love watching her cook. I also love listening to the dulcet tones of her voice as she explains this or that. ("Blitzing" pea soup in the blender or food processor) But the thing that makes her absolutely adorable is when she is eating what she made.  (especially when she is raiding the refrigerator in her nightgown... LOL)

She always eats with such relish that one cannot help but feel the hunger pangs wishing for a big bite of whatever it was she just made. (like margarita ice cream)

I was watching her the other day and she made this delicious Mushroom and Lemon linguine dish, that required absolutely NO cooking whatsoever (other than boiling the pasta).  It sounded delicious, except for one thing.  I am normally not a warm mushroom person.  Oh, I like raw mushrooms in my salad, and I, of course, like them sautéed, puréed and even flambéed, but not really just warmed up by hot noodles.

Since it was obviously delicious, or at least she made me believe so, I decided to tweak it just a little.  Thus is was that instead of simply slicing mushrooms and dumping hot pasta over the top, I have chosen to saute the mushrooms first, in the Julia Child method.  "DON'T CROWD THE PAN" or they will simply give up their liquid and steam instead of sautéing.

Nigella's Mushroom and Lemon Linguine

8 oz Cremini Mushrooms; Sliced
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra for sauteing the mushrooms
2 tsp Kosher salt
Small clove garlic, Grated
1 Large Lemon, zested and juiced (or 1 1/2 medium or small lemons)
4 sprigs fresh thyme; leaves stripped off; about 3/4 tsp (I highly recommend Lemon Thyme)
16 oz Linguine
About 1/2 cup freshly chopped Italian Parsley
4 TB Parmigiano-Reggiano freshly grated
Freshly ground black pepper

Select mushrooms that do not have exposed gills, this means they are getting old. (well, unless you are buying "Portobellos")

Slice the mushrooms and begin heating olive oil in a skillet set over medium heat. (or you can skip the sautéing and do this Nigella's way)

Add the mushrooms to the hot oil, not quite covering the bottom of the pan (you will have to work in batches)

Allow each side to brown lightly using a pair of tongs to turn the mushrooms over. (yes, I know this will take awhile... Nigella's way was much faster)

Move each completed batch to a small bowl.

Season with Salt, Garlic, Lemon Zest, and Thyme leaves. (I just grated the Garlic on the lemon zester)

Drizzle with strained Lemon Juice.

Chop the Parsley.

Cook the pasta according to the packet instructions and reserve 1/2 cup of the water.

Drain pasta and place in a warm bowl and pour the olive oil over then toss to coat.

Add the Mushroom mixture and toss.

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and toss again.

Add the Parsley and toss 1 more time.

If the sauce seems thick, add the reserved pasta water and toss again.

 Serve immediately.

I must admit that I consumed this dish with great exuberance.  Very light and refreshingly delicious.  Like Summerthyme in a bowl.  YUM!

I noticed, about half way through cooking and snapping pictures, that I had an audience.  LOL

Mangia!!
~~

Béchamel, Automobile Hell and Sauce Duxelles - Sort of

I must apologize for the delay in getting this posted. It's been a little bit of a whirl wind weekend, primarily due to vehicular issues. (I now have more issues than the Auto Trader) I made this sauce on Friday night and used it as accompaniment to the Gougeres, but didn't get around to reducing the photos or writing the post.

What is Sauce Duxelles?
It's one of the French small sauces that is based on Béchamel. So in essence, if you know how to make Béchamel, your good ta go. Simply sauté onions and mushrooms together, add them to a completed Béchamel sauce with a little crème fraîche and an egg yolk.. That's all there is too it...

I made a few changes, just for me... I used leeks and mixed mushrooms, half cremini and half re-hydrated morels. I also found I was out of Crème Fraîche, so I added a little heavy cream instead.

Sauce Duxelles

7 oz (200g) Mushrooms; finely diced
1/4 cup Leeks; finely chopped (I forgot to weigh this)
2 TB (1 oz) (30g) Unsalted Butter (for leek and mushroom saute)
1/4 cup (2 oz) (60g) Unsalted Butter
4 TB (32g) AP Flour
1 cup (8oz) (236ml) Whole Milk; Warmed
1/2 tsp dried Tarragon
1/4 tsp ground Nutmeg
Salt and White Pepper
1/4 cup (2oz)(60ml) Heavy cream or Crème Fraîche
1 slightly beaten egg yolk

Saute the leeks in the 2 TB Butter until soft but not brown.

Add the fine diced mushrooms, stir until the mushrooms start to soften.

Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside while making the roux.

In another saucepan, melt the butter, letting it foam a little to cook out some of the water.

Add the flour and cook with constant stirring over a medium heat for about a minute.

Add the milk while stirring constantly until the roux thickens and begins to boil,

becoming a smooth sauce.

Remove from heat, add Tarragon, Nutmeg, salt and white pepper to taste and stir in the leek/mushrooms.

Stir in Heavy Cream

Then stir in beaten Egg yolk.

Return to a low heat to keep the mixture warm while the gougeres bake.
To serve, slice the very top off of a gougere and spoon in the sauce, replace the "cap" and serve.
If you can mince your mushrooms fine enough, you may be able to pass the mixture through a pastry bag fitted with the same filling tip used to fill eclairs and creme puffs.

I joke that this is like an upscale (chi chi poo poo) version of Biscuits and Gravy... ;)

Mangia!!
~~