Springerle, Speculaas and Gingerbread... Oh My! - Molded Cookies Series

I have been wanting to write something about molded cookies for about 2 years, but I have never really been sure how to tackle the subject, for it is a formidable one.  The internet already contains a large body of information on the subject if you know what to look for; being "Springerle", "Kvircedli", "Speculaas" (Speculoos or Spekulatius), "Molded Gingerbread" (Lebkuchen), "Pryaniki", "Honey Cakes", "Sable Breton", "Albertle", "Pizzelle", "Sandbakkelse", "Ka’ik", "Shortbread", "Moon Cakes", "Krumkake", "Katzenpratzl", "Piernik", "Kolompeh", "Frankfurter Brenten", "Ma'moul", "Paprenjak", "Stroopwafle", and "Oreshki" to name just a few.  They hail from Scotland, Norway, Poland, Hungary, Germany, Lebanon, Denmark, Switzerland, Russia, Czech Republic, Iran, Sweden, Croatia, Italy, The Netherlands, Egypt, Belgium, Iran, and China.   Molded cookies are, in truth, a cross cultural phenomenon.

Though the popularity of simple cut-out cookies has overshadowed molded cookies over the last century, there are still small pockets of devout cookie molders out there, across the globe.  It often takes a bit more time, due to aging of dough, or drying the cookies over night, or even multiple chilling sessions in the refrigerator between mixing, rolling, pressing and cutting; even before you get to baking.  In the end, they are not only delicious, but exquisitely beautiful to behold and well worth the effort involved.  In my humble opinion, that is.

There are many ways to mold cookies, and many different types of molds to mold said cookies.  One group that I would like to skim over really quick, for I will not be covering it at this time, is the iron molded cookies; of which, I have previously written about the Stroopwafle from The Netherlands and Pizzelle from Italy many moons ago during the Waffle series I began back in early 2009.  They are all related to the waffle and are thus baked in different forms of waffle irons.  It could even be said that they do not really qualify as cookies, but are actually thin crispy waffles instead.  They consist of the Krumkake from Norway, Stroopwafles from The Netherlands, Oreshki from Russia, Gaulettes & Lukken from Belgium and Pizzelle of Italy.  All are light thin batters baked between iron plates.  Swedish Rosette cookies which, while not baked IN an iron, are fried ON an Iron form, may also be included in this group.

The molded cookies I would like to examine in a little more depth over the next several posts are those that are formed by either  "pressing" the dough into mold or "stamping" the dough with the mold.  Speculaas, Honey Cakes and Gingerbread are usually formed by pressing the dough into a mold and then whacking the mold on the counter over baking parchment or foil, before being moved to a baking sheet.  Springerle, Frankfurter Brenten, and Albertle are formed by "stamping" the dough with a device that leaves an impression after it has been rolled to a specific thickness.  Stamping can also be done via a carved rolling pin.

Pressed cookies (Speculaas, Honey Cakes, Pryanik)
These "cavity" molds are still primarily made of wood, though there are resin copies as well as ceramic molds (which are usually intended for baking shortbread).  They are designed slightly different than other cookie molds in that they have either sloping or vertical sides that form an actual cavity which dictated the shape of the cookie and then carving within the cavity of the mold that adds raised retails to the cookie shape.  Most people are at least somewhat familiar with the Dutch Windmill cookies, though machine made versions in the U.S. tend to be just almond flavored instead of having any actual speculaaskruiden (speculaas spice mix) flavor.   Having covered the basics of Speculaas back in 2013, I will save these types of molds for later; even though my technique and ingredient list has changed a bit over the last 6 years.

Stamped cookies (Springerle, Albertle, Frankfurter Brenten, etc.)
The molds to make these cookies were originally carved out of wood but are also made of ceramic, metal, silicon and food safe resins as well.  The method of using these types of stamps varies as much as the types of dough used.

The first method, I call the "Springerle" method, but it is also used for Albertle, Frankfurter Brenton and some Shortbread.  The dough is rolled to a specific thickness, then the design is "stamped" into the dough and the individual cookie is cut out.  This continues, 1 cookie at a time, until all the dough from a single rolling is used up.  In some cases, a carved rolling pin is rolled across the dough or a large multi-image plate is pressing into the dough, resulting in multiple cookies that must be cut apart with either small cutters or the use of a pastry wheel or pizza cutter. 

The second method is more popular for Danish Butter Cookies, modified versions of Sugar Cookies or Peanut Butter cookies as well as, again, Shortbread (very versatile cookie that shortbread).  A ball of dough is placed on a baking sheet and the ball is stamped with the mold (sometimes the edges are cleaned up with a cutter, but not always) or the dough is rolled out and cut into shapes that are then stamped with a design. This method seems to be more of a Scandinavian approach to cookie making though the Sable Breton of France sort of falls under this method as well.

I would really like to focus on actual Springerle/Stamp style molds, and in doing so, I would like to first talk about the multi-image rolling pins.  Even though I do not own one, I think a few things need to be cleared up, considering what I have seen when searching on eBay. 

This is a Springerle rolling pin made of carved wood....  These were the the only thing available for purchase in the United States, for a very long time.  

Fairly recently, some ingenious people have begun producing laser cut rolling pins.  Though the designs tend to be square edged and flat topped, there are some beautiful designs out there and they are a lot of fun to play with. 

This is also a Springerle rolling pin, though it is a resin copy of an antique mold.  I believe this example is a House on the Hill rolling pin.

This, however, is NOT a Springerle rolling pin... It is for Lefse, a Scandinavian potato based flat bread.  This is sometimes referred to as a "corrugated" rolling pin.

This is also NOT a Springerle rolling pin...  It is for Lefse as well, and is known as the "square cut" rolling pin.

This is also NOT a Springerle rolling pin....  It is for Knækbrød, a Rye based crispbread from Scandinavia. (and The Netherlands and Germany under similar names)

This is also NOT a Springerle rolling pin.... It is, in fact, for making Ravioli. (I think pretty much everyone is familiar with ravioli, even if only from a can of Chef Boyardee)

Now that the rolling pin eBay listing fiascos have been cleared up, lets talk about Springerle molds and Cookie stamps.  I group them together because for all intents and purposes, they are really the same thing.  The execution and design of the carving may vary, but the concept behind them is identical... Imprinting/Embossing a design in cookie dough.

Wooden molds have been around for centuries, as in the 1400s.  The quality of carving can vary greatly from the very simple, to unbelievably intricate.   I have a few wooden molds and they are from all over (USA, Germany, Hungary, Russia) and have different styles of carving.  Most of my collection, however, is made of food safe resin copies of older molds.  What I would call actual "Springerle" molds leave an embossed or raised design.

What refer to as cookie "stamps" impress, engrave, or indent a design into the cookie.

That being said, the Rycraft makes and sells what they have labeled themselves as "cookies stamps", however, their beautiful terracotta stamps leave an embossed design like a Springerle mold would.

Which only proves that what constitutes a Springerle mold is really in the eye of the beholder.

In conclusion, I would like to leave you with a list of resources for molds.  These links are current as of July 2019 and I will not be updating this page again, once it is published so if in the future (some  5-10 years from now) some of these links no longer work, I apologize; but that's just the way the proverbial cookie crumbles.

Anis Paradies in Switzerland (cause you can order directly from them) - Resin copies of antique molds as well as some new molds by very talented carvers.

Springerle Emporium -  U.S. seller of Anis Paradies resin molds as well as Art Und Delikat laser carved cherry and maple wood molds from Germany.

Springerle Traditions - U.S. seller of Anis Paradies molds.

Kitchen Vixen Bakery- Providing artisan baking lessons and Anis Paradies molds.

I Love Springerle - Providing resin molds produced by U.S. maker House on the Hill

Gingerhaus -  Purveyor of both House on the Hill and Anis Paradies molds as well as Nordic Ware and other baking supplies.

HOBI cookie molds -  Gene Wilson wood carved creations.. Springerle, Speculaas, Gingerbread along with Cookie and Butter Stamps.

S.R. White Carving and Son - Hand carved wood springerle molds.

The Springerle Baker -  Baker of springerle and creator of spectacular resin copies of antique molds.

Fancy Flours  - Purveyor of House on the Hill molds and cutters.

Fantes - Purveyor of both House on the Hill molds and German wood rolling pins.

Rycraft - Maker of terracotta cookie stamps (that make excellent springerle molds)

Otho Holz - (Facebook Page) Carver of wood springerle molds and rolling pins.

Art und Delikat - Maker of laser carved springerle molds and oblaten (Gingerbread wafer paper).


In the next post, I will be making traditional springerle cookie dough. (and attempting an actual video - we'll see how it goes).

Mangia!!
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Off My Rocker for Betty Crocker - Bonnie Butter Cake

Even though I am not really a "cake person", every once in awhile, I get the hankerin' for a piece.   Now this is not without an ulterior motive...  Because my cake craving is not so much the actual "cake" itself, but rather the topping that accompanies said cake.

Whether it's an Italian or Swiss Buttercream, Ermine (boiled milk) frosting, Cream Cheese frosting, 7 minute fluff, or adecadent Chocolate Ganache...   This is the real reason for the cake craving.  For cake is simply a vehicle for getting the good stuff into your mouth.  I'm just sayin' 

That being said, I have some Rhubarb sauce that I made with the last of my rhubarb.  True, you can buy "hot house" rhubarb throughout the year in most places, but hot house rhubarb never has the punchy tartness that it does when it is harvested in it's natural Spring season.  It's always kind of dull and flat...  Blah tasting, if you will. SO, after several rhubarb pies this year, I decided to make the rest into a sauce, to be stored in the freezer until such time as it was necessary to apply it heavily to my waffles and pancakes; or, in this case...  Cake.

Yes, I think Rhubarb sauce is delicious on cake, but I couldn't decide what kind of cake to make.  Pound cake is nice as is Angel Food, but both are fairly involved with the separating of eggs and beating things, then folding thing and yadda yadda yadda.  Angel Food, in particular, leaves me with a lot of yolks to have to make something with after the fact, and I am not in the mood for Creme Brulee since I just made Baked Custard less than a week ago.  I wanted something quick and simple, yet delicious.

The answer came from a source that I don't consult very often...  Betty Crocker.

No, I did not use a cake mix.  I used the Betty Crocker Cookbook.  Yep, I got one, though it always seems to sit forgotten on the shelf while I consult every other cookbook I own.   In fact, it was my brother that reminded me I had one when he made his infamous Gingerbread waffles.  When I asked him where he got the recipe, he told me it was in the Betty Crocker Cookbook.  I was dumbfounded, to say the least, yet ecstatic because I knew I had one.  Thus, it now has a sticky not sticking out of the top so I can find the recipe quickly.

The cake I chose was one that was fairly quick to make and simple in preparation, yet OH SO delicious that you would think it was a much more complex preparation.

Bonnie Butter Cake.

The only warning I can give you on this one, is that you need to follow the times for beating.  Whether hand mixer or stand mixer... The times are extremely important for a fine texture and maximum height.

Originally, this cake is written for 2 9-inch or 3 8-inch layers and then slathered in Fudge Frosting.  Honestly, I like it as a sheet cake or a loaf.  It makes it easier to serve with things like fruit sauces and reduces the amount of dirty dishes.  Like I said, I was going for simple.

Bonnie Butter Cake

2/3 cup (150g) unsalted Butter, room temperature
1 3/4 cup (350g) Granulated Sugar
2 large Eggs (That's 100g of Egg)
1 1/2 tsp Vanilla Extract
2 3/4 cups (345g) AP Flour
2 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1 tsp Salt
1 1/4 cups (296ml) Whole Milk

Preheat the oven to 350F degrees, then Butter and Flour a 13x9 inch baking dish. (I used my Vintage Corningware French White lasagna pan - which is pyroceram, not stoneware)

In a small bowl, combine Flour, Baking Powder and Salt; whisking to aerate and combine.

In the bowl of a stand mixer combine room temperature Butter and Sugar, beat on medium speed until fluffy - 3 minutes.

Add Eggs and Vanilla and beat on high speed for 5 minutes.

Turn the mixer down to low speed and add the Flour mixture and Milk, alternating between the two, beginning and ending with the Milk.

Continue beating on medium speed for 1 minute longer.

Pour into the prepared baking dish.

Supposedly it should bake for 45-50 minutes in a 13x9 inch pan, but mine was done in 38 minutes (I checked with a toothpick) which may have to do with the pyroceram dish, as it conducts heat better than Pyrex glass would.

Allow the cake to cool for 10 minutes in the pan, before turning out onto a rack.

Me?  I just leave it in the pan and cut big hunks out to be slathered with Rhubarb Sauce and Clove Whip Cream.

This is an extremely buttery and moist cake with a fine crumb.  The perfect vehicle for any topping you wish to consume.

Mangia!!
~~

Carried Away With Caraway - Polish Buttermilk Rye

I love homemade bread.  Love it!
I just don't normally make it due to the amount of time it takes.  Let's face it, when one is producing bread, one must be in the general vicinity of the dough for the duration.  You mix up a Starter, Mother, Biga or Poolish then that must "ferment". Then you mix up the actual dough and add the Starter, Mother, Biga or Poolish... and that must rise, then you form loaves and THAT must rise... Then you have to bake it.  Time - Time - Time - Time - Time.   (did I mention it takes time?)

On the flip side, there are those easy breads such as Foccacia and Pizza dough.  I make those all the time due to their hands off approach.  You simply activate the yeast in warm water, then simply mix up the dough and toss it in the refrigerator for 8 hours to do it's thing.  Totally hands off, until you are ready to form the pizza crust or loaves.

While I am thinking about it, I would like to put forth a terminology change. This form of raising dough and/or batter, as in the case of Brussels waffles, in the refrigerator is usually referred to as "slow rising", or worse, "retarding the rise".  And while I do enjoy the extra flavor this gives to the dough, I don't really care for the first term and I find the second one particularly offensive to be honest.  Since I have been brewing beer, which involves yeast as well, I would like to point out that any beer in which the yeast is fermenting (breaking down sugars to produce various organic compounds as well a carbon dioxide) under refrigeration temperatures is called "Lagering" (This is where the term "lager" beer comes from) So I propose that raising dough under refrigeration hence forth be referred to as "Lagering the dough"  I just had to put that out there...  OK, back to our regularly scheduled Blog post.

Of all the more complicated breads out there, my ultimate favorite is Rye bread... Be it Russian, Dark, Pumpernickle, Jewish, Polish or any of the other million variations they are all just darned yummy.

Working with Rye is particularly tricky though, because of the grain's makeup.  First off, Rye is low in gluten, which is what really holds bread together and allows it to contain the carbon dioxide thus allowing it to rise.  The second issue is the particular enzymes in the grain which differ from those of wheat.

Warning....   I am about to geek out.....   ;)

There are two basic forms of grain starches.... Amylose and Amylopectin.  You may remember these from my risotto posts.  Shorter grained "risotto rice" such as Arborio & Carnaroli contain higher quantities of Amylopectin which is responsible for the creamy deliciousness that is Risotto.  OK.  Well, all grains have these two starches in different ratios, whether Rice, Wheat, Rye, Triticale or Barley.  Because Rye is lower in gluten (which is a protein, not a starch) the structure of the Rye bread is more dependent on the Amylose starch than on Gluten protein.

Enter the nasty bad evil amylase.  (at least as far as bread is concerned, for beer its a good thing)

Amylase is an enzyme that breaks down a plants starch reserves, similar to the way your body uses lipase to breaks down fat. (remember, plants store food a starches not fats) This enzyme is alive and active in Rye flour as well as Wheat flour.  However, the amylase in wheat is more susceptible to heat and becomes inactive, while the Rye amylase is unaffected and continues breaking down starches during the baking process.  So while you are depending on starches gelling properly for your Rye bread structure the evil amylase is tearing it down and releasing your carbon dioxide, making your bread flat. This is not as big of a deal with Wheat bread, as you have plenty of gluten for support.  But as I said, Rye is low in gluten and what little gluten it DOES have is very weak.

Luckily, there is a solution.  Acid.  For while heat has very little effect on the Amylase in Rye, acid stops it dead in it's tracks.

THUS, most Rye bread starts out as a sourdough containing lactic acid, courtesy of the lactobacillus bacteria that are living symbiotically with the yeast (saccharomyces).  But, you can "cheat".  Hee hee hee hee.  Buttermilk is an excellent way of acidifying your Rye dough and saving you a weeks worth of cultivating a Sourdough starter.  What could be better?  It adds richness to the dough, cause it's milk, and acidifies at the same time, thanks to the lactobacillus bulgaris.  AWESOME!!!! 

So here is my cheaters Buttermilk Rye bread...

Polish Buttermilk Rye Bread

2 1/4 cups (18 oz) (532 ml) Buttermilk (I prefer Bulgarian because it's more sour)
1/4 cup (2 oz) (60 ml) Water
2 TB Unsalted Butter
1 TB Sugar
1 TB Molasses 
1 tsp Kosher Salt
1 package (1/4 oz) (7 g) Active Dry Yeast
4 cups (16 oz) (452 g) Rye flour
2 1/2 cups (13 1/2 oz) (382 g) Bread flour
2 TB Caraway seeds
1 beaten egg white for egg wash

Heat the Buttermilk to 120 degrees....

Remove from the heat and add Butter Molasses, Sugar and Salt, then stir until the butter is completely melted.

Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the somewhat cooled mixture.

Pour into the work bowl of your mixer that has been fitted with the paddle attachment, then sprinkle 3 cups (12 oz) (340 g) of the Rye Flour over the buttermilk mixture.

Beat until thoroughly combined.

Add the remaining 1 cup (4 oz) (112 g) of Rye flour and continue beating until combined.

Quickly oil a large bowl with either Olive oil or Vegetable oil.

Scrape the Rye "paste" from the mixing bowl and into the oiled bowl.

Cover and set in a warm place to rise, until doubled in volume (about 1 hour)

Clean your mixer bowl and fit the mixer with the dough hook.

When doubled in size, remove the Rye "paste" from it's place of raising and scoop it back into the mixing bowl.

Begin "kneading" with the dough hook while slowly adding 2 cups (11 oz) (312 g) of the bread flour and the 2 TB of Caraway Seeds.

Once it has been incorporated, turn the dough out onto a surface that has been floured with the remaining 1/2 cup (2 1/2 oz) (70 g) of bread flour.

Knead by hand until it has been incorporated as well. (you can technically do this with the mixer, but I like to get my hands in the dough to make sure it feels right)

Divide the dough in 2 pieces of about 1 lb 10 oz (26 oz) (737 g) each.

Form into either rounds or longs and place on a parchment lined baking sheet.

Cover again, with a towel this time, to allow for vapor loss, and let rise for 1 hour.

When there's about 15 minutes left for the rise go ahead and begin preheating the oven to 350 F (175 C) degrees.

When the loaves have finished rising, make 3 slices in the top of each loaf, then brush the tops with beaten egg white.

Place in the oven  and bake for 50 minutes.

Turn loaves out onto a cooling rack, and let cool. (I know it's hard, not to cut into it right away, but you need to let the gelled starches set completely after baking)

Once cooled, slice a big hunk and enjoy.

Can't eat 2 whole loaves before they go stale?  That's alright, you can slice one up, place it in a freezer bag and store in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Mangia!!
~~